WINSINN HT-NTC100K Thermistor Sensor, Ender 3 v2 Upgrade 3x15 3950 XH2.54 2Pin, Compatible with Ender 3 5 Pro CR6 CR10 Series 3D Printer Hotend (Pack of 5Pcs)

Overall I was very pleased with these thermistors. They appear to be accurate (well as accurate as the one I replaced) and I like the fact they come with pre-crimped connectors.

The cartridge appears to be the right size for the E3D hotend but I did not test fit as the connector is not correct for the Prusa board. You clearly see this if you compare the pictures to your existing part. Not sure why there is a review from someone saying they used these on their i3 MK3 as it's a totally different connector.

Well made and once installed so far working well. I have it a easy to install of 4 because it’s 6 inches shorter than the Creality thermistor cable. This restricts the x axis from going all the way up to 240-250mm. I bought the non changeable version. I was fortunate enough due to other hobbies to have a set of connectors on wires to make a jumper eith the extra 6-8” needed (8” better) I’m not futecif cutting and soldering in a extra length of wires would change the accuracy of the original crimped wires. Have extras that may be another answer, use one to make a longer cable? So except for this minor but important issue I’m liking how it’s working! One other minor side is the shrink tubing on the thermistor is a little long and can stop the casing from inserting all the way into the heat block. A little trimming back of the shrink tubing and is webtvin all the way. If I was to buy again( have askers do ot may be done time) I think I’d buy the version with the replaceable thermistor tips. Mainly because running new sites inside the Creality black cable covering all the way to control board is time consuming. Not a complaint but a tip if your not sure about which version to buy. So to sum it up, working great but may be a little short cable wise.

I questioned whether these worked or not, cutting up 2 already as i thought they were bad, but turns out, i think cura was screwing me up with how the temperatures kept changing, so I had this wild theory that something was bugged in cura from what i was slicing to 3d print. With this in mind, I decided to, as much as i wanted to avoid it, download prusaslicer. I watched a beginner guide and was up and running, I changed the temps to the appropriate tmep for my lw pla. And once I imported my file it said it had ERRORS....FLIPPING ERRORS... There was an exclamation point next to it allowing me to repair, which i did so, and now it has been printing for a couple of hours, no runaway temperatures. SIMPLE FIX: Try different slicers.

If you are looking to purchase this for your 3D printer, specifically the Ender 3 with an upgraded extruder, and have the Marlin firmware installed they will work. I've spent a few hours working and testing them with a multimeter and temperature probe refining the results. Below should get you in the ball park for accurate temperatures on your hot end within 0-1½ degrees Celsius: M301 p32.19 i2.12 d122.30 define TEMP_SENSOR_0 61 61 is 100kΩ Formbot/Vivedino 350°C Thermistor - beta 3950 Using those settings run a M303 PID autotune then use/save the values and you're all set. If you are running the stock Ender 3 firmware, these will not work, you need to have the Marlin firmware installed.

These do not work!!! I tried the type 1, 11, and 13 thermocoupes in Marlin and none of them work. Like other reviewers said, the temp swings all over the place, causing errors. Keep your $11 and buy a genuine E3D thermistor!!!

They work and the construction is good. Unfortunately, they don't line up with any of the stock Marlin tables at the high end. If you're using them @ ~200 degrees, they'll probably work for you using the default NTC100K tables, but the temps will be off by around 5-10 degrees and they'll keep getting further and further off as you go higher. This is fine if you're going to dial in settings for each filament. The actual temp doesn't matter if you just experiment and find a setting that works. But if you're relying on vendor recommendations or have a mix of printers, it's critical to be have accurate temperature reporting. I ended up putting them in a drawer and shelling out for a Slice Engineering high temp. It's just too much hassle to set up a rig with multiple thermistors to create my own tables. I may get around to it one day, but not today.

Haven't used

My previous thermistor failed and so I was looking for upgraded ones. I think it could not take the heat cycles while printing ASA and ABS. These Winsinn thermistors seem to handle the heat without issues. I have upgraded all of my printers to these thermistors. They are fully enclosed with no glass, slot straight into my Phaetus BMO and BMS hotends.

Son buenos en cuanto a calidad de fabricación, pero el vendedor no contesta las preguntas y la información que pone no es suficiente o muy ambigua, para poder modificar bien el firmware por lo que es un dolor poderlos usar, si pueden eviten lo y busque otros que el vendedor si ponga bien la información para poderlo modificar en Marlin

Good value and work perfect

Ein Produkt, das genau meinen Vorstellungen entsprach und ich nun sehr glücklich bin dies erworben zu haben. Beschreibung trifft genau zu! Kaufempfehlung!

There ok but do not specifically match any thermistor table in Marlin. Thermistor value 1 is overall the best but I am seeing up to 10c difference. I wouldn’t recommend these unless you can calibrate your own thermistor values and do a custom table within Marlin.