Stanley 0-10-598 Hobby Knife with Folding Blade 110 mm Length Metal Body with Locking Mechanism Includes 2 Blades

This is probably my most used knife, it's a great size for accurate work but strong enough to tackle most jobs. The locking mechanism works well, it's quick to open and close and there's little chance of the blade accidentally opening. Once open, the blade is kept firmly in position. It's slightly awkward to replace the blades - I'd prefer it to be tool-less but you do need a small screwdriver. Not a big deal but still, something to improve. It holds two spare blades in the handle, and once you've unscrewed the body its simple enough to safely change the blade out. It fits beautifully in the hand which makes it great for accurate cutting, it has a good weight to it. Even though it has a smooth painted exterior it doesn't slip about. I use Swann Morton blades in mine and they fit well with a tiny bit of modification to the plastic internals. As many other reviewers have mentioned, the Stanley branded blades are expensive so I bought a 50 pack of Swann Morton and still have plenty to spare as I like to resharpen my blades when I can. They're no longer available on Amazon for some reason so I think eBay is your best bet. All in all, it's an excellent knife that should last you years, I've had mine a couple of years and despite a few blemishes to the paintwork it's still functioning like new. For the money it's great value - just don't get ripped off buying blades!.

Small, handy Stanley knife, a folding scalpel type blade, you can buy a couple of different shaped blades. Good, money saving tip ~ buy Swann Morton 01 or 04 craft blades for it, when the supplied one blunts, the SMs are the same, but cheaper than the Stanley's. Good, decent knife, to change the blades, you unscrew the silver X screw, then take out + refit a blade, easy enough to do. Like most knives, it will rust, if not cared for, keep it dry and oil it occasionally. Not sure if this is UK Street carry legal ? I would not like to risk it !

I use this knife for marking wood, it is perfect for this because of the extremely thin razor blades, you want a blade with very low curf for the highest accuracy, this knife can also be pressed down hard and locks into place, once opened it won't budge without pressing the black safety lock on the bottom. The only downside is that it's a little bit awkward to set up, you will need to open it up, but once you get going, it is very safe and easily locks away, you just have to be careful not to leave the blade open, it's razor sharp. For such a cheap product, it's worth every penny, plus it doubles up as decent razor sharp knife for other things like model making, pencil sharpening e.t.c

My Stanley Folding Knife just arrived. I looked at the instructions on the piece of card attached to it - drew a blank. The little illustrations made no sense at all - until I figured out how to set the knife up myself and only then did the illustrations become obvious. Anyway, not knowing how to set it up, I took it apart, looking for clues. Plastic parts and razor sharp blades were soon laid out on my table and it took another ten minutes or so - and several attempts - to put it all back together in working order. Now that it is as it should be - serviceable - I can see and feel that it is actually well made, compact and the blade is VERY sharp. It feels solid, sure and precise. Excellent! The downside is that the blade only locks in the open position. When closed, the blade does not lock and is therefore always an accident waiting to happen. The only solution I can think of is to keep it in a sheath, to stop the blade from being opened unintentionally. Also, to close the blade, you have to pull back on the black plastic piece at the 'blunt' end of the handle, which itself can be a hazard if the thing slips as you pull back and then close the blade. My advice is to never try to close it from the leading edge side; hold the handle from the top, place the blade gently on a bench top or whatever, then pull back on the plastic piece until the blade releases, then continue closing the blade while it is still on the bench top. Above all, keep your fingers on the rear side of that blade. Obvious hazards aside, I am confident that the knife will give many years of accurate service for which I bought it; marking wood with precision. I will probably have to get used to the procedure when a blade change is required but most tools are like that - you master them in time. Having read a few reviews before buying the knife, I followed the common advice and ordered Swann Morton replacement blades; a box of 50 is £12, which can't be bad. As for the knife itself, at the £7-50 it cost, I think it is very good value for money and will definitely buy another for my day job as a carpenter. It is sharper and more refined than a utility knife for doing those precise and fiddly tasks that often pop up during the day at work. I am surprised that a proprietary sheath or container is not available for it - or even come with it as standard; I will make one myself. It is not the kind of thing to leave laying around for others to potentially slit themselves open with, either in the open or 'vaguely' closed positions. I certainly would not keep it loose in my pocket but now that I know how to set it up and have become aware of its pro's and con's, I would highly recommend it - as long as care is taken in use.

Once you use a coin to open it up for the first time you can see there's relatively few moving parts. Flipping one of the two blades contained within the handle and inserting it into the right place is easy, and you'll be snapping it back together with one spare blade left in the handle. It's once the blade is in place the locking mechanism comes in to play, and it feels fairly secure as you try to pull it away from the handle to unlock the stiff blade for closing it back up. Using it is a pleasure as the ergonomics seem just about right for my average sized male hands. The blade seems to be of high quality and has a nice sharp edge at the tip for splitting the fibres of timber for accurate marking. It would be a wise move to get a pack of blades and perhaps store two spares in the handle. I have used it on vinyl flooring already and it's got a great precision as I made my cuts on delicate angles at doorframes. Overall I can't see me reaching for any other marking tool for quite some time as this one feels like it's built to last.

Wow, it's sharp and just the correct size for marking out. The blade storage and folding are good the quality of this Stanley is very good.

Best knife for woodworking.

My new Stanley razor/utility knife arrived this afternoon. I generally do not review products on here until I've had it for awhile, but felt I needed to address some issues with it that numerous people on here had complaints about. I bought this not to replace my Fastback, but to supplement it, mainly for marking wood for cutting. I realized that this knife will be used for far more than that. I'm viewing it as a sturdier version of an X-Acto. Great feel in the hand, good for precision work and folds up to fit easily in a pocket. The problems appeared in my early attempts to load a blade. The directions on the package are meager at best, so I viewed the only Youtube video I could find that shows that process. I had all kinds of trouble with that and spent about an hour with my attempts. And then I realized a couple of things. He shows reassembling the knife with the new blade facing the rear. I couldn't get things assembled correctly and the blade hit one of the sides of the knife when folding it. I had to manually pull the blade towards the center to keep it from hitting (and dulling the blade). The folding and opening process also made me very nervous....its a VERY sharp blade. My solutions. I found that that blade point should face forward on reassemble and if it impacts the side of the frame on folding, it's not lined up correctly on the front screw and plastic mechanism. I also found an easy way of opening and closing it, safely. The knife is not a real "switchblade" and doesn't pop open or closed. So, to close it, I hold my thumb and forefinger of my left hand on either side of the front screw. The right hand pulls the rear plastic piece backwards just enough to release the blade. I then lower the back of the blade towards the work surface and tap it down (against the spine of the blade). The blade folds back enough from doing that to then grab either side of the blade with that left hand and safely push it into the handle. Easy and safe. And if the blade is aligned so it doesn't contact the side of the frame, you don't even need to fold it back with your fingers.....you can just continue pushing the spine against the work surface until it's folded back. You definitely need to practice all of the above, but it's worth it. Great knife

Ottimo, le lame sono davvero affilate bene, strumento preciso

Very sharp and strong. Perfect for cutting knife lines in joinery pieces.

Ich bin durch den Kanal von Paul Sellers - einen der wohl bekanntesten Woodworking-Kanäle auf Youtube - auf dieses Messer gestoßen; P.S. - ein Profi mit mehr als 50 Jahren Berufserfahrung - verwendet es zum Anreißen und Markieren. Dafür eignet sich dieses Messer ideal; weil die Klinge so dünn und schmal ist, verläuft sie auch bei wilder Maserung bei Schnitten längs der Faser nicht, aufgrund ihrer Schärfe durchtrennt sie die Fasern zuverlässig, wenn man quer dazu schneidet. Das Messer ist leicht und liegt extrem gut in der Hand. Um diesen Preis bekommt man sicher nichts Vergleichbares; die Klingen sind natürlich teurer als "normale" Cutterklingen, aber man kann sie auch nachschleifen. Mein ursprüngliches Vorhaben, ein japanisches Anreißmesser zu erwerben, hab ich jedenfalls ad acta gelegt - besser kann's nicht sein. Selten, dass ich von einem Produkt so begeistert war.