Liquid Metal Thermal Paste, 79 W/mK High Performance, Silver King Heatsink Paste, CPU for All Coolers, 1 Grams with Cleanser and Spreader

I wanted to experiment with this product and what I found is that this TIM knocks 3-4 degrees off of core temperatures compared to conventional thermal paste when used between the heat sink and the integrated CPU heat spreader under %100 load. My CPU temperature delta doesn't go over 43 and realistically another 3-4 degrees hotter wouldn't hurt anything. Furthermore, given that the thermal conductivity is between 7-20 times that of conventional paste yet the temperature delta doesn't scale proportionately, It's pretty clear that using a much higher thermal conductivity TIM applied between the heat sink and IHS does not open up any major bottle necks for heat transfer. My conclusion is that while the difference is measurable it's not really useful and given the extra expense and complexity compared to conventional paste it is not really worth it. I would only recommend this if you are running at maximum temperatures and all other options are unavailable or exhausted. For everyone else moving forward, myself included, a high quality conventional paste is the recommended way to go. I have to say that this product does seem to be quality and just because it is not right for everyone does not make it a bad product, so five stars.

I took a chance on this product when there were no user reviews (might still be the first real review) and needed immediate gratification for my first cpu delid (an i7-7700K). Based on my overclocking research, was looking to purchase either the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut or Coollaboratory Liquid Pro liquid metal products but both were on long order fulfillment and the Silver King was 1 to 2-day delivery. I confess I was a bit leery of what I'd get but the product came in solid packaging that included 2 microfiber swabs, brush, alchohol swab and a syringe-type nozzle for for easily applying the small drop amount recommended for liquid metal thermal compounds (even less than thermal grease types.)After popping the heat spreader (IHS) off the cpu using the Rockit 88 delid/relid tool (another great product), I used the Silver King for the die-to-IHS interface. It's easy to squeeze a bit too much but you can just suck the excess back into the syringe. The material went on fairly easily: I used the flattish tip end of a swab and found if you press slightly to "paint" the die it adheres and spreads out nicely (same for the IHS.) After relidding I chose to use Gelid GC Extreme thermal compound when remounting the cpu cooler (Noctua U14S) as liquid metals are iffy (electrically and corrosively) for your motherboard.The product description claims a better thermal conductivity than my first choices, and while I can't speak to that, the results were still fairly amazing. Initial results had the cpu idling in the low 20s versus mid 30s, and under load at a 4.8ghz overclock the chip never got hotter than the low 60s versus 79-80 previously (with some system instability.) I've been forever trying to overclock to 5.0ghz, and assumed I'd lost the silicon lottery--lo and behold I go into bios and up the vcore a bit, set the cpu multiplier to 50, reboot and <Bang!> the system runs like a champ and passes the Intel Burn and Real Bench stress tests at 5.0 ghz without getting hotter than 65c...now gonna see how much I can lower the vcore to achieve even lower temps (fans used to roar at full load--now whisper quiet!)tl;dnr: Recommended for delid cpu use.

I recently purchased a Dell G3 3590 gaming laptop with i5 9300h and 1660ti max Q. Well this thing runs hot always. It was thermal throttling and power limit throttling all the time. I would loose so many frames playing COD Warzone and during gaming the CPU temp would hit 100C (then throttle) and GPU temp 85 (then throttle). I even undervolted and limited my CPU from 4.0ghz turbo boost to 3.4ghz, which helped, but at the sake of performance and temps continued to run high (CPU still hit 90C even after undervolt and turbo boost limit). These methods did stop the throttling, but again, at the sake of performance. I never used liquid metal before. It is much different than thermal paste. Prep work before applying is critical. Start by cleaning off all old thermal paste and use supplied alcohol wipe to clean CPU and GPU (also a microfiber cloth to finish). Then, I used clear coat nail polish around all the resistors (2 coats) and on the heatsink around the cpu and gpu. I also used +33 electrical tape around CPU and GPU after coating resistors. Then I applied liquid metal. You really only need a small drop, a little goes a long way. Then use the supplied Q-tip to spread it all over. Use the excess on the heatsink only in the area where CPU and GPU will be in contact. Let me tell you, it made a 15C difference while gaming! And I can now turbo boost back to 4.0ghz. At max turbo boost speed, with the same undervolt I ran before, I only reach 85C while gaming. My GPU did not experience as much of a difference, but it still runs 5-7C cooler than any thermal paste I have tried. So now while playing Warzone I run CPU at 83-85C and GPU 77-79C. I am very happy with the results and can't recommend this enough to anyone with a gaming laptop. Also ordering a cooling pad hoping to get even lower temps. Would love to be in the 70's all day. I give this product a full recommendation.EDIT 8/29/20My laptop temps are still great with this liquid metal and no thermal throttling at full speed during long gaming sessions. I have also now used this liquid metal to delid my 8600k. After the delid and liquid metal application, my CPU temps dropped by 17C even in an office with a pretty hot ambient room temp due to lack of A/C. Just can't recommend this stuff enough for gaming laptops or delidding/OCing.

Bought to repair one of the original Xbox One X Project Scorpio editions - they suffered from overheating and shutting down. I had tried numerous heatsink compounds before this one - none of them seemed to work. Be aware this is a conductive compound and you need to be REALLY CAREFUL with it - get it in the wrong place and it's 'goodnight' to whatever you're trying to repair.DO NOT try to apply it directly to the chip - This is like working with mercury and it has a high surface tension - dispense on to a little piece of waste plastic and spread it out with a cotton bud before applying it. It then paints on as you would expect.

Great thermal conductor (looks like mercury, but isn't), you MUST put sparingly. A little goes a long way. If you put too much it will squirt off the chip and onto the board. This is extremely dangerous,; being liquid metal it's conductive and will kill the mother board if other components are bridged.Put a very small amount in the middle of the chip. Then use the supplied 'Q tip' to GENTLY dab the liquid over the chip. If required, use the brush to smooth it over. Job done.The liquid metal has reduced the temperatures on my 2012 MacBook Pro by around 10 degrees. When browsing the net, email, and watching movies, the temps are a cool 35 degrees.I'm very happy with the result and will recommend this product to anyone. Just make sure you're careful as it is after all a liquid. I cannot caution enough to use it sparingly, it spreads very easily.

I was battling to get a decent overclock on an i9 9900K CPU using the Intel Performace Overclock Application. After applying the LM to the CPU I have now been able to get a stable 5Ghz on all Cores, this was impossible even using the best Thermal Paste on the market. When applying you need to take your time, keep spreading it over the CPU, it's almost like you have to tease it to take, at first it seems to bead on the surface but with continually spreading it over the CPU you will eventually get an even spread, it will almost be a mirror finish on the CPU when it's ready.Don't use too much at once, you do not need the entire 1Gram, the size is about 2 rice grains in size of what's needed on an Intel CPU, you will see when spreading it, it will cover very well and if you feel it's not enough you can then add a small drop if needed.Take out the CPU from the MB. Clean it with a paper towel and then clean it with the provided wipe. Then apply as above and when ready insert it back into the MB. IMPORTANT - The MB must be flat when placing the CPU, if you do this on the side, the liquid metal (LM) will go everywhere.This is really good stuff. No Bull... Just Take Your Time...Good Luck and Enjoy your lower temps!!!

I've got plenty of experience building, repairing, modding, watercooling high end laptops and desktops.I even once fully custom watercooled the rarest and most expensive graphics card at the time (Asus Ares 2 that's already water cooled, added it to my custom loop) So I'm not shy to have a go.This though, this scared even me, It's my first (and last) time using this. The product Is 10/10 no complaints.It's the using it that's the problem. I decided to try It on a 2080 Super In an Alienware Area 51m. I went with the nail varnish and electrical tape method, firstly I applied the tape just a little off the mark so took It back up, up with it came all the nail varnish that was protecting the capacitors.That left me humming and harring. Decided to leave the tape off in case It peeled up with the heat and took the varnish with it and caused more trouble than It was worth.Anyway Installed It all, all got up and running, got a few degrees Improvement (2-3 nothing major, only at highest temps too)The 9900k seemed to be running a tad hotter than usual though (no liquid metal just normal thermal paste) So i decided to take It all apart again and reseat everything / see how the liquid metal matched up.Took the heatsink off and I was shocked to see blobs of liquid metal over the capacitors, I very sparesly put It one, like a thin film but somehow It turned itself into little blobs and spead on areas of the PCB.Decided It's too risky and to take It all off, go back to the safer methods.Believe me when I say the applying It is by far and wide the easiest part. Removing It is risky and messy. It doesn't want to apply to anything that isn't your computer components. No "q tips" no toilet paper nothing. It just repels off it all like water off a ducks back.I had a bottle of vodka laying around so put some of that on a q tip and that helped MASSIVELY it pooled it all up into a little ball and I managed to get It out. Not all of It though, some of It made it's way Into areas of the gpu I just can't get to. It's there forever and will be in the back of my mind for as long.Computer Is up and running fine though, thankfully.Just be very very careful ladies and gentlemen. I was extremely careful and still had issues. Heed everyones warnings and maybe try It on an old laptop or something first to see If you are comfortable with it. I'm not.Good luck.

I had already tried an arctic thermal paset on my PS4 to try and lower the fan noise, but it made no difference. Then I saw a video of this liquid metal compound (it literally looks like mercury), and I had nothing to lose but try it out. And it was a success! The pro isn't silent, but the maximum volume is now a tolerable fan drone when at full stress. And I say this as someone who plays with the sound low on the TV (I'm not a teenager in a bedroom with headphones on).Warning: You can cause permanent damage to your PS4 if you don't know what you'e doing. Metal compound can short surrounding circuits.