ARCTIC TP-2 (APT2560): Economic Thermal Pad, 145 x 145 x 0.5 mm (1 Piece) - Thermal pad, Excellent Heat Conduction, Low Hardness, Ideal Gap Filler, Easy Installation, Safe handling - Blue

I bought this thermal pad on early January 2022. Its mid February 2022 now.. and it works great. During my research for the best thermal pad on my PS4 Pro. Many recommended the thermal grizzly brand.. but I saw many recent reviews. And they were quite poor reviews. So i went with this one. And I'm amazed, the fan just went silent. Like very silent. You can hear it working but.. wow. Such a change. I placed these on my PS4 Pro. Just specifying once again. Because I don't know how would thermal pads would work on the base PS4[2013] or the PS4 Slim. Though I believe it would work perfectly well. As for anyone new to install these thermal pads.. don't worry. It's an easy installation and completely worth it. When the thermal pad was delivered to me.. it wasn't broken or damaged. So.. keep that in mind too.. to pull it out with delicacy.. because it very sensitive when it comes to cutting the pieces you need. It's not frail.. but do treat it with care. I hope this review helped. 😊🙋‍♂️

Up until yesterday I planned on a 3 or 4 star review saying it appeared to do the job just as well as the stock pads on my gigabyte gtx 1070 g1 with micron vram. After the results I got playing around with mem overclocking yesterday I had to rate this at 5 stars. All the .5mm pads on my card got replaced with this stuff and the gddr5 seemed to really like the change. Prior I could only hit an effective speed of 8750mhz for the memory before stability became an issue. Since applying the arctic pads to the vram I am now hitting an effective speed of 9250mhz on micron gddr5. Unlike the 8750mhz from before the new 9250mhz is 100% stable in every situation. Some games would crash at 8750mhz but now 9250mhz is rock solid. I didn't think such an oc was possible with the micron stuff but it appears some of the limitations I was having was caused by the vram temperature. I even made sure to confirm the speeds with multiple monitoring software and benchmarks. All benchmarks showed a sizable increase in performance once the memory hit 9000mhz effective and continued to show gains until I stopped for the night at 9250mhz. I wish this stuff was cheaper but considering it is supposedly middle of the road quality I am impressed by its performance. If you have a gigabyte card this stuff is definitely a step up from the stock pads and worth buying if you are trying to get every last drop of performance out of your vram.

I used this to further mod my (somehow still alive and perfect) last-generation "openable unibody" 17" Macbook Pro. For cooling. Because everyone knows that Radeon chip is going to DIE if it runs too hot for too long, and then you have a *fried* Macbook Pro. I recently respread Arctic MX under the heat sinks, which went great, and dropped my temps by 20 degrees Celsius. I used this stuff (carefully trimming and in some cases stacking it) to place the heat pipe grille fins in touch with the top and bottom of the unibody case. The result? A warmer case exterior, top and bottom—and another 10 degree Celsius drop. YES! This stuff really works. More on what sort of material it is, because this matters if you're modding stuff up: 1) It IS NOT self-adhesive. It has MILD adhesion of the kind that those kids' "sticky stretch gel hands" have, but it's not truly adhesive in any sense of the word. Sticks, but just barely, and leaves no residue. Cannot be used, for example, to glue a heatsink to a chip package. Must be held in place. 2) It IS somewhat squishy. Yes, there do appear to be microbubbles or some kind of compressability here. It will squish. It will also slowly return to form when pressure is removed. But it is not "hard" silicone or rubberized silicone of the "takes an awful lot of force" to squish kind. Squishes more like memory foam. 3) It gathers dust. BADLY. And I suspect that that will deeply interfere with cooling. And with sticking (which is useful to allow you to place things in place to hold this in place, even if it's not useful for permanent self-adhesion). So be sure to carefully clean off your equipment before laying this stuff against it, or you'll have to toss out any pieces that get dusty. My biggest concern about this stuff was that it just wouldn't conduct heat all that well—but it does. Win.

I shared the photo I did for functional purposes. At first when you are building or repairing a heatsink, there's alot to know as far as thickness, and how many exchanger pads and processors you must cover by cutting these strips to fit. Almost every notebook you encounter will have a 1.0 mm thickness, but I would not use the 0.5 and stack them. You need a solid attachment point and medium through which to conduct the heat away from your gpu and cpu. Air will act like an insulator, so you do not want that. I found the 145mm x 145mm to be a better value instead of the smaller 50 mm x 50mm. You buy one square and cut it as needed, and this is the perfect length for the typical strips used for processors in rows. I don't do this for a living, but it sure performs like a professional job. If you have dedicated tools, lightly polishing the contact side of the heat sink pads will slightly help promote heat transfer as well. I wouldn't even bother doing this modification if the machine is for the average daily user.

The product does what it's supposed to which is basically the heat transfer from one surface to another. Unfortunately, it's hard to comment on the heat conductivity rate of 6Wm/K. The temp's in my laptop used to reach above 85C for the cpu die which came with stock paste & thermal pads from MSI. One year and temperature was through the roof almost hitting 92C at which point I stopped using my laptop until I could reapply paste and thermal pads. The stock thermals from the time I bought was beat by about 6-7C which in my book was a win and now sits at 78C when at full load & gaming. All in all , I recommend the 0.5mm and 1mm despite it's high susceptibility to tearing if you are not handling with extreme care. The product has to be improved for reuse. Note: The high temps I mentioned earlier was during heavy load but still somewhat concerning. MSI had mediocre paste , thermal pads and heat sink that was not seated correctly.

This Arctic Thermal pad works great to hold the glass print bed on my MP Delta Mini 3D printer in place with no noticeable effect on the bed temperature. It's easy to cut with scissors and holds the glass without the need for clips. I've been using a thermal pad to hold a glass bed on another 3D printer for over two years now with zero issues. Since this pad is thin and quite stretchy, I found it easiest to peel one of the protective plastic sheets off and then place the glass on the pad. Then I could cut around the glass with scissors or an exacto knife. Once it's cut, carefully peel off the the other layer of protective plastic and place it on the 3D printer. Any bubbles that may be present don't seem to cause any problems with heat transfer from a heated bed.

I got the smaller one when I got my xps13. Because I had heard that the m.2 drives can heat up and the bottom of my laptop is aluminum or some sort of alloy, I figure, it'd be great to dissipate the heat to the case to keep the fan strain lower. It works great at transferring the heat. I got the larger pad so I could basically use it all over the inside of my laptop. Keeps the temps much cooler. It's tacky, but not sticky. So if you open the case, it'll probably come up, but it stays in place when the cover's on. I like that because I don't have to deal with ripping pieces off or getting gunk off of components. So if you have something flat and you're attaching a heat sink or something to it, it won't move around, not sure if it's sideways on like a graphics card or something.

*****edit**** Make sure the pads you replace are the same thickness. I liquid metal'd my Intel NUC, and figured I'd replace the pad that were next to the cpu die while I was at it. I replaced them with these, which were thicker, and put everything back together. Tell soared immediately to 100c, tj max. Figured die wasn't making contact with the heatsink, so tore it apart again and replaced the pads with much smaller ones, 0.5mm instead of these 1.5mm ones. Instantly, temps dropped by 10c than before I LMd it, and things worked as they should. This works great, just make sure the ones you replace are the same size. Bought to use on a cpu watercooling monoblock and vrms, also for a gpu. Work great, better than stock crap Asus, msi, gigabyte, evga etc put on their cards. If you're going to tear your gpu apart to put on a waterblock or apply better thermal paste, these are cheap enough to pick up and replace while you're at it.