WD RESTORATION KT 24OZ

We live in an older log home and I was intrigued that this product was used by historical preservation societies to shore up and repair damage that can happen over the years. We have used this product both inside and outside to repair damaged logs, and even an interior bathroom floor that had a bit of damage around the base of the toilet. The product is easy to use, but you will have to wear gloves, especially for the liquid wood part of the treatment. It's a two part process, and even with the most practiced hands and careful use, it can be messy. The wood filler portion is also a two part process. There are gloves and a spatula included to make the process easier. Frankly, I found just getting into the filler with your hands and working it till it's even is the best approach. The product dries beautifully, it can be sanded, stained, and it is extremely durable. We always make sure we have tis product on hand for what may happen. Follow the directions, allow both the liquiwood and the filler to dry thourughly and you can't go wrong.

I had purchased this product from this seller November 22, 2016 but the 'leave a review' button is gone but I wanted to leave one now bc I just used the product:) So it took awhile for me to get the courage to do this project but today, I didn't think about it I just did it. I looked at the online videos a few times, read the instructs a few times and then got started. I'm repairing a wood floor from 1946 (I know this is original bc I've taken out a couple of walls and the floor was underneath and already stained). This was a previous doorway before someone else took out that wall. When I bought the house there was carpet down so I didn't know about it. Took out the carpet and HORRORS! I thought I would have to have the wood cut out and maybe put a perpendicular long piece in w supports under the floor etc. Research always gives more than one solution:) I found this and I knew I could do it and save a lot of $. When I got the Liquid Wood painted on I realized I didn't know when to put the Woodepox in... wait or immediate? So... I took a chance (it's Sunday), several ppl answered:). The seller gave me really good advice and the one following him in the post. 5-20 minutes said the seller and the other guy said he waited about an hour. I'd already waited about two hours but my stuff was soaked and just right... tacky to the touch. So I mixed up my play doh and started squeezing it into all the rotten crevices and smashed and smashed it in then leveled it off as best I could. I did all the holes, one after the other then went back and smoothed a bit with the alcohol. I poured some alcohol into a plastic cat food dish (I save these bc they are so great for painting on canvas and small jobs) and smoothed out the surface with the mud knife. It had already started getting firm but the alcohol made it pliable a bit again. When I painted on the Liquid Wood I used a paintbrush from my art set, a 1/2 inch across brush. Some of the crevices were under the wood so I couldn't see how far back or big so I poured the liquid on top of the brush next to the hole and just dabbed everywhere the brush would go and then I wouldn't waste the liquid trying to scoop it up into holes. This worked great. I coated everything about three times. I had mixed one ounce each of A and B of the liquid and had trouble using it all. There was more than enough even though I had a lot to cover. There's lots left over too. I did use all the Woodepox though. I realized it was best to take smaller amounts of each, mix them together then add some more bc the color has to be one color when the mixing is done. With the larger amount it seemed to take forever to get it to be one color. I just put it out on a plastic grocery bag and put my feet at either end of the bag to hold it down. Some pieces would fall out of my ball of play doh and I would just dab it up with the ball in my hand. Super easy to work with. I used the gloves but they must have been super man's:) Huge! I could have used my hair coloring gloves and the fit would be better. It did the job though. I'll try and post some pics of my pitiful floor. I know this is extremely amateurish but I wish I'd seen something similar while I was trying to work up the courage to start. Had no idea except the directions on what to do and I did just fine:)

I had a piece of pine brickmould trim that I found began to rot at the sill level on a casement window. The piece was dry and crumbling. First, I used a brush to apply Liquid Wood. This is a two part liquid epoxy. The Liquid Wood made the crumbling trim hard as concrete in hours. No issue with tackiness or other problems. Instructions and mixing were easy to follow and a no-brainer. Second, I filled the hole with the Wood Epoxy. Again, this is a two part mix. Effectively you kneed the two parts like dough. The Wood Epoxy can best be described as play-doh like. I do agree it can be hard to work with because it isnt as firm as play-doh. This can be a plus and a minus depending on what you are trying to mold. The product does smooth easy with Rubbing Alcohol. The wood epoxy dried in a few hours and I sanded it the next day. It sands well and was not flaky. At this point I have primed the repair with a high quality exterior primer and it seems to accept paint well. I recommend that anyone debating about the product watch the Abatron videos on their website. I do wish that I had taken before photos but I do believe most users will be very pleased. I'm glad that I choose the product. I have used both Minwax and a competitive product. Liquid Wood puts Minwax Hardner to shame.

I purchased this product to repair two outside wooden bench tops that are supposedly made of some exotic East Indian wood, but were splitting and rotting in places. I found the liquid wood epoxy easy to mix and apply with a brush, though it has been very slow to dry (over a week, and still tacky). The WoodEpox putty also mixes easily, but not with the plastic gloves provided. It sticks to them. I ended up molding it with my bare hands since nothing warned against skin contact. I haven't had any reaction. The mixture molds into place easily and does work for filling pretty large spaces, including a missing corner. The instructions recommend smoothing large fillings with alcohol or acetone on a putty knife, once in place, and that did work well. It hasn't dried to the point that I can test hardness or how well it will sand or stain, but to this point it is doing all I hoped for from the product. I'm guessing that the tackiness and slow drying is a result, in part, of this being dense wood which didn't absorb as well as softer woods might. If it sands and stains well and is durable, this will be the perfect product for wood restoration.

Great product for spot repair of weathered, rotted wood.

Very cool product, I had a rotten piece of wood on the roof that was a special size. Would have had to get custom lumber made to replace it. Luckily I found this stuff and was able to harden the soft wood and replace the totally rotten wood with this plastic goopy stuff. You can't even tell where it was used once I got the texture correct.

For several years I've used it mainly outdoors on different types of wood and in areas that experience a lot of sun exposure. I haven't seen it failing anywhere yet. Some others I've used have developed a few problems. It's important to follow the directions. Also, to use a good quality topcoat. Both oil base and water base paint have worked well on it for me. But, PPG and SW are the only ones I have used for a long time. I have not used in any places requiring structural or load bearing stresses. It's not much more expensive than others that have not performed as well.

This product works as advertised. Once set up, the putty is very hard, which is a good thing. The powder was a bit on the dry side but I managed to mix it okay. I will be using more of it on the deteriorated/rotted wood in our travel trailer I think it will do the trick quite nicely. Would recommend this product.

This was a good product and very easy to use. I used it to fill a cavity on the upward side in a 6x6 beam which supported my crib dock. It had started to rot. I dried it and filled it with no issues. Sure beats replacing a large beam. Water will not pool there now and it is hard and strong and should not rot again.

Used this to restore my mother-in-law's old wooden sign for their house. Has sentimental value so it was great to be able to do so. The resin made it waterproof and protects it against further rot while the paste was great for rebuilding the rotted parts and takes paint well so it could be matched.

Had a rotten corner on my deck fascia. Removed the rotten wood and applied the epoxy hardener. The result was impressive. The epoxy hardener had penetrated the area where applied and produced a hard surface to work on. I had waited several hours for it to dry. The filler was mixed and applied as directed. It was easy to work with as well and I let it dry over night. To reduce the high spots, I used my hand plane and it worked very well. It allowed me to put a sharp edge of the corner and required minimal sanding. I will definite purchase this product again.

Easy to make and install, reliable, and durable.

I was all set to replace my door and several partially rotted deck boards. Since it was a big job I thought, why not try this product before the hard work. The area on the door was where a hinge attached, and after following the instructions, it has worked perfectly. The deck repairs also saved me hours of work and money. We live in a rain forest on the ocean so wood rots very quickly, even treated wood, so I am thrilled I can now fix areas before it becomes serious. The liquid sealer really holds all the soft wood back into a solid part. I love it when something does what they say it will do.