New Keyless Flip Folding Key Shell Remote Key Case Fob Replacement 4 Button for Camaro 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014

First, this shell is nearly but not exactly identical to the OEM part and works pretty well. Also, I could never have done this without various online video tutorials. As many other comments have noted, if you want to swap over the original key instead of getting a new key cut, you will probably have to file down the inserted end of the blade so that the retention pin will line up, it just won't fit otherwise. I did find the new pin and spring to be much flimsier than the originals, so I moved the original over to the new fob as well. It took a little while to do but it was so much cheaper to repair myself it was well worth it.

This fob shell was very nicely made; quality seemed equivalent to the Chevy original. Contrary to the listing (and Amazon's Garage listing), this shell worked fine for transplanting the guts of a Chevrolet Cruze 2014 fob with the identical pushbutton arrangement. Assembly of the new shell was quite simple, with the original fob's printed circuit board fitting perfectly. One exception: the small metal cam that holds the new key itself is SLIGHTLY different than that of the original key's cam, so the metal key assembly couldn't be directly transplanted. Instead, I drove out the tiny roll pin used to hold both the old and new key to that cam, swapped the keys and cams, and drove the roll pin back in. Then the old key was on the new cam which of course worked perfectly in the new fob shell. (Use a #52 or 1/16th inch drill bit to drive out the pin, if you don't have something better.) Be sure to wind the spring up a bit before snapping the fob's case together. The hardest part of the job was disassembling the original Chevy fob, which took a bit of Dremeling to split.

First, the value can't be beaten. $250 for the dealer to replace one fob? No thanks. That made this purchase a no-brainer. The caveat? It's not a simple "replace the chipboard into the new shell and you're good to go".THE PROBLEM:The inner workings of the new shells DO NOT match the inner workings of the original fob. The chipboard fits perfectly fine in the new shell, all of the posts align as they should and the board is secure in the fob. The problem is with the switchblade. The old switchblade mechanism will not fit with the new shell.THE SOLUTION:If you have a few tools and some minor mechanical skills you can overcome this problem:1. Remove the keyblade on the original fob - poke out the small pin holding it in place (hammer and a picture-hanging-wall-nail) and slide the blade out. Do this for the new fob as well; remove the blank (Don't lose either of the miniscule holding pins!).2. Slide the old blade into the new mechanism (mind the alignment, there's a groove that needs to align with the locking pinhole) and lock it in place by gently hammering the locking pin into place.2a. At this point, I had to get a 1/16 drill bit and clean the pin hole out a little bit to make sure the pin could actually go back into the new mechanism with the original blade.NEARLY CELEBRATORY BEER TIME:If you've made it this far...then youtube can carry you home with the little idiosyncratic annoyances to finish the task.Unfortunately, now my wife thinks that she has $479 "free money" to spend at Target or some nonsense since I saved so much money replacing my wife's 2 fobs...

I purchased 2 of these to replace the shell of 2 keys that the rubber around the buttons had worn out, allowing the button to fall out, for my 2012 Chevy Equinox.I admit, I purchased the wrong shells. I have a base model Equinox that does not have the trunk release. I did notice on my old key, their was an unused spot/button where the trunk release would be. I noticed if I pressed it, I could 'feel' a click of the button, telling me that I might be able to use this shell anyway. I was correct. My non-trunk circuit board has a micro switch where the trunk button is. You can use a 'trunk release' shell with 'non-trunk release' circuit board.As for disassembly, I watched a few videos on how to disassemble the old key. The first one took about 10 minutes. I found that I really ended up just forcing it open after it seemed I could not 'cut' it open with a good razer blade. I do think cutting helped a little. On the 2nd one, the shell came apart without the knife when I was breaking off the metal key ring loop. So as you break off the key ring loop, try prying in both directions before it breaks off for good, you may pry apart the shell. If you pry the shell open from the void of the extended 'key', you are safe from damaging the circuit board, but be careful after the shell starts to split open.Assembly was easy. I was able to use the old 'key' without having to cut the blank key provided, no modifications needed. The 2 parts of the shell both click together and have a screw to hold it. Just remember, before you 'click' down the shell, make sure the spring tension is good for you. I also found that if I over tighten the screw, the key would bind a little when you pressed the button to release the key. If that happens, just loosen the screw until it doesn't bind. Even with the screw not tightened all the way, the shell feels as solid as the original.Overall, the shell seems to be as good as the original, with one difference. The buttons are more firm/stiffer then the original. But I think that is a good thing, I had a problem with accidental button presses with the old ones.

Great replacement for 2010 Camaro. No instructions but matches factory key fob. A quick Youtube search on how to dismantle the existing fob worked fine to figure out how this comes apart. 2 minute swap over. Did the job great.

Beware! It's empty inside of the plastic shell. No working electronic part inside. Disappointed so much. I would give it negative five for the review if possible.

Good quality