Meguiar's M4916 Marine/RV Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover, Oxidation, Water Spot, Stain, and Boat Scratch Remover for Vehicles with Gel Coat and Fiberglass Surfaces, 16 Oz - Packaging May Vary

I do car detailing and my cars have to look perfect new all the time. That has to go the same for my trailer. Got a used trailer inside was like new and I think this trailer sat unused for a few years in the sun.Now I need to get the oxidation off this used trailer we just bought. I tried regular Mcquires for cars clearcoat cleaner compound on a 3000 rpm polishing wheel. Not good enough.I ordered through Amazon McGuires RV 3 step oxidation compound 49, polish and wax. Fiberglass is a tougher finish then clearcoat and this Oxidation compound is designed to cut through and really remove all the garbage and oxidation built on the finish. It restored my dull slightly off white finish back to bright white and very shiny. As well as me tired, But its well worth the effort. If you are taking on a whole boat or RV by the 3 step Rv kit for 25.00 on Amazon. I bought an extra bottle of 49 heavy duty because 1 16 oz bottle ran short.WARNING!........Their is nothing that will work without the right tools, time, strenth and energy involved in taking on this big a surface on 29 ft Rv with slide outs. You need a polishing wheel ( Not an orbital buffer they are not powerfull at all. I tried the dual action kind they are easier to controll but I like the speed of reg car polisher and prefer the 10 lb 7 inch 3000 rpm wheel using McGuires medium cut rasberry colored foam pad. Made just for taking oxidation safely out of the fiberglass.I started on the full molded fiberglass cap front. IT had a dull SATIN LIKE white finish on it very minimal shine. After applying the compound with 3000 rpm wheel, polish then wax which goes on easy and I did by hand. The compound is what does all the work to remove oxidation. Its as shiny as a new trailer or a new bathroom tub at Lowes.LET ME TELL YOU THE SHINE JUST AFTER USING THE COMPOUND IS AMAZING! IT works as its advertised. Then you follow up with the polish on a rag and wipe it off right away. Polish takes off any film left by compound and adds oils back to finish. They have a pure wax.Once you complete the 3 steps you will be happy you put in the time. Its really new looking.Its a extreamly hard job.Takes per side about 4 hrs but I have to stop because it will wear you out holding polisher tightly and letting wheel and compound do its job.Its a good workout. But the end results are well worth the time. My trailer had medium oxidation, but people who used it that claim they started with a chalky finish have had the same end results based on the reviews I read on Amazon.I AM sure with a BAD OXIDIZED chalky finish you will need to constantly clean the oxididation it removes off the pad.But years of not cleaning and waxing require the pain staking process that goes along with removing all the dead finish to get down to fresh.Tip.... For cleaning deep dirt on caulking I carefull use lacquire thinner on a small clean rag just folded to touch the caulking only. The thinner will melt the top layer of caulk every so slightly and remove the dirt instantly. Let it dry and then follow over the area with the wax, the wax will remove the film left behind and leave you trailer caulk look like new again. Dont effect the fiberglass Wont work if caulk is silicone.Try on small area to see results on you unit.Please note.......... My trailer is 5 years old and though it was oxidized some but a dull shine was still appearant, I knew the gelcoat seemed still good. If your unit has been neglected for say 10 years or more it may be possible that the oxidation has gone beyond the Gelcoat finish which gives the fiberglass its shine. If so, You really have nothing to shine back up. 3 part restorer will remove the oxidation then the polish and wax will add oils back to finish but without the high gloss shine if the gelcoat is gone. Also the dullness may return as the oils dry out over the following weeks of months depending on fiberglass gel coat in bad condition. But it has to be really bad looking and chalky to have killed gelcoat finish.I would try a small section on an older unit and see if you get that desired shine before spending your efforts to restore the entire unit. If that is the case their are other polymer finishes that coat over the dead finish once you clear off dead oxidation and create a new shiny type coating that they claim will hold a nice shine back to old finish. I am sure you can see them on the net. People seem to like these products as well. I would only consider going that route if you indeed do not have a chance of restoring the gelcoat. At that point you have nothing to lose but you will have to reapply that polymer finish every year. But it seems easy as waxing the whole unit. But at least you still have an option.I AM ADDING MORE COMMENTS A YEAR LATER WITH ANOTHER RV I RESTORED WITH THIS PRODUCT.I recently picked up a 2004 Gulf stream BT cruiser which was kept outside its whole life, but well maintained with 25k miles only on it. The Motorhome fiberglass was a high shine gelcoat smooth finish which was dirty and oxidized as well, but you can still see shine beneath it......... but dull. The lower panels by storage area were factory painted with Auto paint a golden color but very dull. This entire coach I applied the same Mc Guires Fiberglass restorer to using Rasberry colored McGuires foam med cut pad. As I decribed before its work not an easy fix to remove years of neglect and you need a high speed wheel. Amazon has a few good buffing wheels for like 60.00 In fact I bought and used one and worked fine.Please practice holding and using one before you start ripping into your finish. It takes a little practice so take your time if you never used one. They are not hard to get the hang of once you spend a little time with it.Needless to say the 2004 coach looks like its new, the finish has a super high shine as it was manufactured to have.I like Protect all Rv wax with UV blockers in it on RV finishes. McGuires wax is fine to. I use this Ptotect-all wax once I complete finish back to new as my only wax and cleaner and you can use it on plastic, and rubber seals windows etc. Plus it holds up nice. Goes on easy comes off to a nice shine and has real wax as well in it. Love it. I never have to restore and finish again when I use this wax twice a year. Designed for RV units and is available all over.I also want to add the McGuires I had great success with as well is McGuires Ulitmate compound on cars as well as RVs using my high speed wheel or hand for hard to get spots.If you need to go over spot where you previously did with RV restorer try the McGuires ulimate compound as finish compound. It really removes dirt, swill marks of light oxidation and brings finish to an amazing glaze ready to be waxed. I usually follow up with it after using the Fiberglass restorer 1st round to lift out any light leftover oxidation 1st round left behind as well as bringing up super luster. Of cource this depends on how oxidized your finish was when you started process.If you are dealing with extream oxidation re-apply the restorer with wheel to take another layer of bad oxidaion off till finish looks shiny at all angles. Its just depends on the layers of oxidation, the compound just takes it off in layers Sometimes one angle verse another will show more then less to all cleared off finish. Always look at area your are working on at different angles to know your ready to move to another section. If I can post pictures of before and after I would. Good Luck

Yup, *ikamper,,,, took 2 season of SW Colorado oxidization (sun induced) right off the top and returned the original 'black' on my overpriced but functional RTT. I should Rhino-line the damn thing white to be honest:)But yeah,,,, it looks great. I found that using a terry cloth type rag for application and rubbing worked the best. Cotton rag seemed to clog up a bit. But definitely use cotton when you buff it out.

Worked great when combined with rubbing compound, just not strong enough for heavy haze but worked and they make more coarse product better to light than too coarse

Initially I was very worried about using this product. My main concern of course was that along with the oxidation, it would possibly tear into gel coat and remove some of that as well. My Jeep Wrangler JK’s 6 year old hardtop has faded enough, so I took a leap of faith.IN SHORT:This product truly works miracles. It seems to only dissolve the bad oxidization layer, while leaving the good paint intact. As a result, the hardtop of my Jeep Wrangler came out with close to new looks. No need to paint the hardtop. No need for Penetrol or all the other recommendations from car forums - THIS PRODUCT IS THE REAL DEAL - It will restore the hard top to near new condition. It works so well, that I feel bad for anyone who is painting their hardtop instead of using this product.EXTENDED VERSION:I test treated a small 1 square inch area of the hard top freedom panel. It came out promisingly beautiful. Then I waited about 5 months, to see if the gel coat of the treated area has worsened or weakened in any way. But the area has remained just as beautiful as on the day that I have treated it. So I decided to move forward.I have used regular kitchen paper towels and started with treating by hand small 20 inch areas at the time. Initially still worried that the product would damage the gel coat, I kept wiping it off and buffing it almost immediately after treatment with a fresh paper towel. Later I realized that it is not really that necessary as the product seems to be very forgiving and easy to use. It only dissolves the bad oxidization, while leaving the good gel coat intact and alone.Another concern of mine was to be ending up post treatment with embedded strikes or patterns of my hand motion. But thankfully even these worries worked out to be unfounded as well. Of course, I paid good attention to what I was doing. I continued to move forward treating small areas at the time, while blending-in the edge areas as best as I could. Once I was done with the panel, I started all over again and gave it another pass. And once that pass was done, I gave it a third and fourth pass with a soft kitchen dish brush, for the remaining oxidation in the crevices. With each pass my paper towels were cleaner. That is how I knew that the product does not hurt the paint. With the last pass, the towels were almost not getting dark, or getting dark only, when I hit a spot that I have apparently not treated well enough prior. After the last pass and the subsequent hand buffing with a wet- and then dry terrycloth all patters were gone and my hard top was near new condition. Most notably the same semi-gloss, as the not yet faded side areas of my hard top.This product is just fantastic. I highly recommend it. Finally, I have some peace of mind as I don’t have to worry about my hardtop fading and deteriorating in the sun. This product is now part of my garage and I know I will be able to use it restore my hardtop if so needed again in a couple of years.Last but not least, make sure to sake it really well before use and regularly during use as well. The liquid and solid part of it tends to separate.

16 months old and opened it today for the first time to find out it had separated. I’ve used this product many of times with great results but didn’t know it had an expiration date.

This product done the job for me…had mild oxidation on my black suv. Put a small amount on and rubbed it on and buffed off. Took the oxidation right off with very little work. This produce is worth a try if you have mild oxidation.

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