COS-QS75 30 in. Haven Collection 500 CFM Ducted Under Cabinet Range Hood, Touch Controls, LED Lights, Stainless Steel

Nicest range hood I've ever had! I love the rounded corners; especially nice since this hood extends 22 inches out over the range. I figured I'd bump my head a lot since we had to install it 25" clearance over the range. But so far it's not been a problem. I like that the control panel goes dark when it's turned off. We have a great room floor plan, so having the LED clock blazing out the time all day and night can be annoying. Having a light on each side of the hood is like having a spotlight for each of the front burners (don't much use the back ones). But best of all is the great, wonderful CFM. It really clears out the steam and odors, I mean really, really clears them out. We replaced an over the range microwave, so maybe this is not surprising, but I can't remember any hood in any house (16!) I've ever had being as effective as this hood. I haven't had to use the highest setting, but the noise is fine on the lower settings. It is very heavy, so it took two of us using a cooler as a support to get it installed. The existing duct is 7 inches, so we bought an 8"x7" adapter which worked out well. The cabinet was already reinforced for the microwave, so all we had to do was enlarge the vent opening from a rectangle to a circle. All in all, straightforward to install but taking some strength and maneuvering in tight spaces. Hey, Cosmo, consider a bracket to support the bottom edge. That would be much more useful than the brackets that came with it.

After living in a home with the previous owner's microwave combo hood for over 8 years, the filters were very clogged and a lot of residue was seen on both the vents and the exterior of my cooking space. Something more powerful was needed, and CFM along with price was the biggest factor I considered in selecting a new range hood. This product is at the top of the air suction power, and may present some loudness at its highest settings, which are only necessary when the cooking is very messy. Otherwise, I can use it at the 2nd and 3rd settings with ease for sucking all the vapors above the stovetop. The installation on my specific kitchen required some modifications because the cabinet was thicker than the screws provided and the previous range hood/microwave had a rectangular duct. Some extra screws and cutting were in order, but the overall install time was reasonable. Some strength is required due to the weight, but with more than one person and appropriate supporting materials it can be easily installed in <5 hours. The suction power as mentioned before is extraordinary. You can feel the raw power before you connect the duct, and it seems that the "vacuum" power underneath is lacking, but it is still more than my previous hood. The remote works fine and the product has a great steel finish that makes my kitchen look professional. The baffle filters seem to work well and look durable enough for years of use, and hopefully the product keeps my kitchen spiffy for years to come. This is the best range hood for its power at this price, and I would say everyone should be it unless they are willing to fork over >$1000 for similar power at other brands.

This unit was purchased to replace the over the range microwave/vent combo. First let me say if you have one of those over the range microwave/vent combo hoods in your house I am truly sorry. Get rid of it as soon as possible. Mine was blowing dirty, dusty air back in to my kitchen for 3 yrs before I finally did something about it. My kitchen has a full duct through the roof so why was it designed to blow air back in the kitchen? My guess is it was cheaper and/or easier when the house was built. The Cosmo QS75 has changed my world. Coming from a over the range microwave/vent to this thing is like going from a KIA to an Mercedes Benz. The upgrade is totally worth it in my opinion. At less than $300 to add this beautiful hood to a kitchen is a steal! The LED lights provide a very bright white light. Not the orange glow that most bulbs give off. This one is at least 5000k. My wife can now see what is in the pot on the stove. The fan has 4 speeds and level 4 is a tornado of suction! We use levels 1 and 2 for cooking and barely smell what was cooked afterwards. Our test for this was cooking an Easter ham for 3 hours straight. I no longer smell dinner in my bedroom while trying to fall asleep 4 hours after it was cooked. The stainless vent filter system is really nice. I haven't had to clean it yet but I imagine it's easy. I plan on soaking mine in Dawn and then a light scrub if needed. My only issue so far is the LED's behind the front panel seem to be pushed too far to the left, which causes some of the buttons to not fully illuminate. There are also some very small pin holes that are allowing the blue light through where it should be black. Neither of these issues effect the functionality of the unit so I'm not too worried. Just not sure how this one made it through quality control. Bottom line, I still love this thing! Installation can be difficult as it's in a tight spot. Be sure you have someone to help you for this. We decided not to pull the stove out as we did not want to have to reconnect the gas line. I ended up having to lay down across my stove and counter on my back to get the top screws in. Check to make sure your cabinet bottom has boards at all the correct mounting holes. Mine did not so we had to install two layers of kicker boards screwing each layer into the previous one. You can see the white board used on the final mounting layer above the hood. This will match perfectly once we paint our cabinets, which is our next project. All in all the install took about 3 hours.

I live in an open Living/Dining/Kitchen space. The ceilings are up to 18 ft high. The fan that was installed with the house was a microwave with recirculating the air, not exhausting it outside, which is indicated for this type of building. The cooking oils were all over the ceiling fans. We got this Fan, and had a friend/Contractor install it professionally. It required a 8" hole through the solid foam core panel, and moving the Modular cabinet up about 10 inches or so. We had to purchase an outside wall vent louvered cover. It took two pros 3 hours to prep the holes in the wall and cabinet, Install the Fan, and reinstall the cabinet higher... I am not sure why they did it in that order. Luckily it has a PLUG end, and the microwave I removed was already set up with an outlet in the neighboring cabinet... Very handy. Otherwise I would have had to hire an electrician. The only real problem with installation was the plastic coating on the baffle filters, to protect it from scratching. I went through the Manuel three times looking for what to do with that... If it was supposed to come off. And, when I didn't find it there, I went online to the company site, where all they had was the same manual, without any mention of the plastic. So, in frustration, I copy and pasted the name of the fan with "removing plastic from baffle filters" into my search engine. Lo and behold, there was a VIDEO about removing the plastic from the baffle filters!!! Included in the prattle from the demonstrator was "MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE PLASTIC... IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC FROM THE BAFFLE FILTERS!!! " "Any damage from not removing it is not the maker's fault"... Blah blah blah. WHY IS THIS NOT IN THE MANUEL??? If it is so darn important... I was 99% sure it should come off, but I wanted to be sure I didn't mess it up. The plastic removes fairly easily once you get it started from the ends. I am extremely pleased with the fan. On low, the microwave is louder! There are 4 fan speeds, on 2, I held some smoldering material some 6" away from the front of the stove. Even smoke curling over top of the front of the hood got sucked back down into the exhaust. On 4, it is STILL not as loud as the "exhaust" on the old Microwave! Totally clears the house of smells! And, I had it placed reasonably high off the cook surface, to allow for no one banging their head, and to put spices on the wall behind the stove... LOVE IT, and it looks great! Very clean lines, nicely rounded corners, and heavy duty Stainless Steel including the impressive filters, the display will turn completely off, and it comes with a remote, which will work to about 20-25 ft. Even the contractor was impressed.

This is so far the only hood that works for us. We installed a less CFM version and it did not do much. With this hood, we could no longer smell the food odor around the house and it has not yet kick off our smoke detector since the day we installed the hood. We used to open all the doors and windows every time we did stir-fry. Not anymore. Installation wise, it is not easy because it is heavy. I installed it by myself with the help of a few friends. But it was still hard. Until I found a video of using the jack to jack it up, I did it and it was a breeze to install. The light is bright enough to keep my wife excited with her cooking. The suction power is great. It is not as quiet as I wish but acceptable because I know it is working. It came with the Flexi Duct and Damper. I did not use both of them. First, it is not up to the code to use the Flexi Duct. You have to use Round Smooth Duct. Second, for the Damper, it comes with two wings that can be opened and closed independently as air travels through the hole. However, before the installation, I tested it and most of the time, one of the wing when closing instead of going back to where it was, it fell on the other wing leaving the entire line open. This is against the purpose of the damper. The good news is it is not that hard to remove it from the hood. I then replace it with a different back-draft damper I found on Amazon. I see a lot of questions asking whether we can use 6" pipe with this product. My setup was 8 inch duct straight to the ceiling then I had a reducer from 8 to 6 due to the tight space I have on the attic. Then after passing all the obstruction, I have another reducer to go from 6 back to 8.

This is a hi-end quality hood at an affordable cost. Permanent steel washable filters, dual fan motors, good installation template. It’s heavy, 53lbs. We needed a hood to use the 10” of under cabinet space & this fit perfect. Installer & I were NOT impressed with the 4 screws provided to hold the unit up to the cab… we drilled the holes & then used steel bolts with wide washers & nuts. Our install is ductless… however every hood has to duct the exhaust air somewhere. This model ducts it either up into the cabinet thru an 8” hole you need to create in the cabinet bottom, OR it can vent out the back into a wall duct. Ours will vent into the upper cab… I moved a shelf down to within 3” of the bottom & then sized a simple furnace filter to just sit in that space. NOTE: if going ductless you’ll also want the two charcoal filters available (only) thru the Cosmo website at $65. Bottom line: a quality product! It moves air even at fan speed 1. If you duct to the exterior, great. If ductless, you just need to be a bit creative & understand that air must vent somewhere; and get the charcoal filters.

We bought this hood because our over the oven microwave was not collecting the grease or venting well enough for the amount of cooking we do, & I’ll say that this is a very powerful hood that does a really great job, but- This was one of the hardest installs I’ve ever done in my life & I installed some complicated things before. I’ve worked as a plumber, electrician, carpenter, welder, general contractor, & this was not easy. In all fairness, it wasn’t just because of this particular product but also because we live in an older house that needed a lot of modifications to fit this hood. But to address the problems with the install of the product to help future buyers? The hardware kit it came with was useless to us. It might be good for you, but the Sheetrock anchors it came with were too long for us, so they didn’t catch & the screws provided easily moved in & out of the anchor which made it much harder to hang the hood. The screws to mount under the cabinet? Are VERY hard to get to, where I had to use a 12” x 1/4” drive extension on my impact wrench just to get up there, and that made it impossible for a one person job. So unless you can build a rolling mount that you can sit this on, & roll it into position? Just know you’ll need an additional person to hold this up while mounting it. I personally cut some 2x4 pieces to go into the cabinet so the screws had something thicker to bite into instead of the 1/4” MDF board the cabinet was made out of, & I had to use my own screws that were 2 1/2” long to make sure it was secured properly. The template needs to be measured up to the hood so you can see where the screws need to be placed & what part of the template needs to be cut off. The template itself was very flimsy & bent so two screws didn’t line up correctly on the wall. Maybe if it was a little thicker & not folded in the box? If your vent is set up for a 6” system? You’ll need a reducer from 8” to 6” because this is an 8” exhaust. Which I had 6” flex pipe that I feel should be made 1/8” bigger to ensure an easier fit. And lastly, once you have it mounted secured enough, & you’re moving on to work on the vent connection? I would have that person helping you, start taking off the static protective plastic from the baffles while you get everything finished. Nothing worse than thinking you’re done, just to find out you have another 30min of peeling off film. Ok, now for the good stuff. It’s a very beautiful hood once everything is installed. The baffles make the hood look like a commercial grade kitchen that you know will be easy to clean because they are dishwasher safe. The fan is SUPER powerful & I know many complained about the loudness, but the fan on my microwave that wasn’t sucking up any air was equally as loud. Also, if you have a gas stove I’d highly recommend getting a strong exhaust simply because of that reason. The LED lights are very bright & pretty when they are on vs our other which had a dark yellowish tint from the built up grease over the light fixture. I only wish they included a kitchen timer in mount for when the one on the stove is being used for one dish? You could’ve had that for a second. Overall, we love this purchase but just wish they redesigned it so that the mounting screws were a little better accessed & because of that? We feel the price should’ve been a little more reasonable. But we are ultimately happier with this than what we had. Hope you have an easier time than we did installing it, & you love yours as much as we love ours.

There are two different models, the JL is the newest. They use different carbon filters if converting to non-exhaust (in room circulation). So you can't order filters through mfg website until you have product s/n in hand so they can sell correct carbon filter. The actual hood width is 29.5", which matches the template. There should be a slight gap on either side. Mine will be tighter than the 2/5" recommended, more like .25 ". Picture of carbon filter installed prior to install. It will be a pain after as with a 25" gap between stove top & hood and filters being recessed, the stove will need to be removed every time filters need changed unless you think it possible to lay on the stove upside down and manuever within a 25" gap.🤔 Download and print the latest online version of the manual before doing anything else! The packaged one is likely obsolete based on package date. Pictures in product description do not show location of power cord (right side). Ordered a plug to fill previous power hole on left side (once again Amazon). Templates go on with print side against the wood. If not you get outlet hole on wrong side. I cut a 1.5" hole centered for new power cord (measure 2x cut once). The part about bending over excess on template is for top template. Remember there is an extra gap on template edging beyond the printed line take into consideration. The directions only indicate the weight as "heavy" (it is actually 59 lbs and change per TS). Better make sure your cabinet supports are screwed into studs and not just drywall anchors, so your significant other does not end up wearing it, if not I hope your job is good enough to cover alimony & child support 😉. There is no way to use the wall keyholes as designed for a under cabinet install, but you can use the top ones (a must & first point of connection). The packaged manual directed screwing into drywall before top. The new version does a 180. You have to remove stove/oven to install (obviously)& space is a premium so getting holes properly aligned is critical to success. Use the template as a rough only, then measure the crud out of it every which way but loose twice over. Take into account trim and cabinet offsets for reference measurements if not you will pay for it. One support person said some people vent into cabinet (when using carbon filter kit and not exhausting through a wall) and the drawing only shows hole in cabinet bottom, not top. At 500 cfm and nowhere to go expect back pressure, overheated motor, and doors flopping like your cabinet is haunted, not to mention a mini sauna from vented clean steam into cabinet, unless the carbon filter blocks "all" moisture and fills drip pan. Black mold in a cabinet would not be fun. If there is a gap between ceiling and cabinet top, best to cut a hole directly above the first. A 8" hole will not likely be enough for bottom hole if using the keyhole slide method in top ideally 8.5 or slightly more"). They need to relocate exhaust vent in design slightly to compensate for the offsets in my humble opinion. Why you ask? Well with an 8" hole you have exactly .25" clearance between duct and hole (when it is not collapsed) add width of compressed duct plus the 1/2" offset (1/4 all around) to slide top from keyhole to slot (final resting place) and you have a preinstalled duct ramming into a cabinet instead of through a hole with 8"! Bending the duct to try forcing it in is asking for damage to it. Duct must be installed before hood goes up depending on whether your entire cabinet bottom is flush or if you have standoff supports with gap in middle see picture. If there is a gap, there will be no room to attach ring to duct after installing hood. The alternative to a larger hole might be to set up some temporary support to rest the hood on and have someone hold in place while someone else sinks screws into all the predrilled/anchored holes. Picture attached of one concept I may use if run into a duct clearance issue. This is where keeping all that scrape lumber around pays off and you can tell your wife, I told you so. New lumber is not cheap. Also due to weight and only 4 wood screws on top, you are going to want to use the beveled washers on top to disperse the weight to a larger area than screw head. Well because the beveled washers provided are the same size as keyhole or a smidge bigger, when raising the hood over preinserted screws it is unlikely they will drop through keyhole in order to allow sliding but hey maybe not. Just saying pre-fit the beveled washers before getting to far in as it would be irritating to raise it up and not have the washers drop through. You may need to buy your own or plan to insert screws and beveled washers while someone holds up 59lbs who keeps saying hurry up I can't hold much longer then drops it with 2 screws in, ripping out the bottom of your cabinet ouch. The wood screws are designed for the washers so even though no direction in manual provided how to use them, they better be on bottom side of hood when your done. (Think"everything" through before you grab the first tool or pencil or end up measuring everything 4x). Instead of buying an 8" flange to come down from top hole, I bought a 8" louvered & screened vent to point exhaust in direction of my choosing. It is the tightest fit imaginable to get the provided ducting over it, but it can be done and avoids the cost of a flange & is so tight I won't need a band. See pictures ( Amazon is your friend here - struck out at Lowes). Getting top hole aligned with bottom hole is tricky. Take into account the inside cabinet wall side thickness when measuring bottom edge to align top hole as bottom hole won't have the extra material. My top hole kisses (lip locks) the cabinet support at the top. Drill a small test hole from bottom to check saw alignment from top down to make sure you don't cut through a support ledge. You may need to offset slightly to avoid that screw-up. This hood may sit a lot lower than what it replaces. Measure from cab bottom to stove, subtract 10, should be 24-36, if not reconsider your purchase. Still waiting on my hole saw..first one defective arbor pins would not align with saw sent back. Second one discounted "like new" was missing arbor and bit all together. So now after research the correct arbor on order via Amazon from same German mfg. so it should fit. I trust German QC more than some others and leave it at that. Hope you found humor in this review but the installation will be anything but funny if you do not spend the time to triple check centered spacing side to side, hole spacing to back wall and spacing between holes. Wear gloves and use care to prevent dings and scratches, ie don't throw any tools at it while cussing. 😉