RepRap Champion Metal J-Head V6 Hot End for RepRap 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament Bowden Extruder 0.4mm Nozzle Kossel Mini Prusa i3

Very nice E3D clone! Arrived quickly, with all parts.I was very impressed with the fit and finish, especially for the price. I spent hours looking for THIS item, so many other clones are close, but this walks the walk. A bit more than some of them, but a much better product.This would be a 4 star review as the heat-break tube had an issue. Although the HOLE was pretty polished, there was some roughness where they drilled the taper INTO the hole, I had to polish it up with a Dremel. The filament would stick during insertion, was fine while printing. % minutes of polishing and it was perfect. To be expected at this price point. You want perfect? Get the genuine E3D, but it will cost you 4 times as much!There was a second issue, and that's why they get 5 stars. My Monoprice Maker Select (Wanhao Duplicater i3 clone) did not like the thermistor, and it measured wrong with a bench meter. I found out AFTER I had wired everything up with nice quick disconnect plugs (XT60's for the heater).Well, RipRap Champion responded amazingly fast to my message and RUSHED me out a replacement thermistor, an even better model. They sure got a new fan for that kind of service, and gained back their fifth star, LOL!EXCELLENT service, such a rarity today.BTW - If you get one of these, be sure to do a "PID tuning" to calibrate your printer to the new thermistor! If you have a problem with it (it can error out) put a strong fan blowing across the hotend and try again at a lower temp (like 179°C). It should work, and you can then run it again without the extra fan at normal temps (whatever you usually print at). I wrestled for 30 mins with it, then found that tip and it went bang, bang, DONE.I also bought this from them a few months back and it, too was excellent quality.  RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers It's dead flat and MUCH stiffer than the factory items on all these i3 clones, really helped on the bed leveling and holds the bearings in place more firmly. I went to a THREE bearing setup with this plate - it really helps the Y Axis be more accurate and smoother, lots of posts about it, great upgrade.

I've had several issues with it so far and I haven't even ran it yet. The first is the hole for the heater cartridge is too big on the heat block forcing you to tighten it down pretty much all the way to hold it in which leads to issue 2 of the cheap screw which will then strip out so you are unable to remove the heater cartridge. I'm going to end up trying to use my original heat block if possible. Just some general FYI, the connector for the fan is quite short, no way it will make it to my control board. It does have an all metal heat throat from what I can tell. Anet A8 users beware if you are going to use this to convert to a Bowden extruder it does not have the correct fitting for the exturder end you will need to find a compatible one. Other than the screws the rest of the metal parts seem sturdy but as much extra $ I had to put into it I would recommend just going with an e3d and save yourself the trouble.

Was excited to change over to a j-head/ Bowden setup. Wasn't as easy as I thought it would be, but that's at no fault of the j-head itself. It's just a pain to switch my Anet A8.As far as this j-head goes, I give it 4stars. Would probably be 3 if it was based off of quality alone, but it gets an extra star for being so inexpensive. The only quality issue I have run into is the Throat part that connects the cold end to the hotend. I've ran several different filaments through it and all have clogged on me.I have recently purchased a higher quality v6 throat for it and hopefully that helps reduce clogging problems. The rest of the kit is just as good as any other j-head hotend out there except for maybe the actual E3D version.Worth the money to order it, but I'd spend a few extra bucks and buy a quality v6 throat that has a smoother polished bore to it.

Excellent E3D V6 clone. I had purchased two cheap clones off of ebay before I bought this; you know, the $6 ones? I had nothing but problems with those: clogs, jams, the thermistor was too far away from the nozzle. So, I bought the RepRap Champion version after hearing recommendations. Not a single problem at all from the get go. Make sure to follow the assembly instructions on E3Ds website, though. And, also buy a small tube of thermal paste (no need for arctic silver or gelid, just something basic) for the threads on the heatbreak that screw into the cold end. E3D's V6 comes with a tube, but this doesn't. The other differences between this and the official V6 are the absence of a silicone boot for the hot end and this has a 40W heater instead of the 20W that comes with the E3D, so you may have to adjust your hotend's PID values.Anyway, awesome product and awesome company. I've been buying a lot of my parts from Reprap Champion since I got this and saw the quality. My only regret is that most of their products don't have Prime shipping.

This is a great replacement hotend for the CR-10, I haven't try the E3D V6 $60 version, so I can't compare both. But I don't see the point to buy the same thing but 3x of the cost. This cheap version does work very well. I have this head printed over 700 hours (yes, we print alot) and is still with the nozzle comes with the unit. no leaking or anything, way better than the OEM on the CR-10. 95% of my use is PLA in between 190 to 210C. 5% of time with ABS with 240C. I did not use the mini fan and clip, I have my own 40mm fan and mount.

This item is okay, but isn't as good as advertized. The thermistor has ptfe insulation, and goes right into the heater block. At temps above 260 it will melt and potentially short out the thermistor. If you want the full benifit of an all-metal hot-end you will require a better thermistor or the block-and-sock upgrade. I'd have given it 5 stars if the thermistor had fiberglass insulation on the leads (hint to mfgr).Update: Replaced the heater block with one that takes a cartridge thermistor and it's printed several spools of PETG and PLA with zero problems.