Dorman 917-033 Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor Connector Compatible with Select Models

good quality with nice tight fit. they fit so tight that I almost feel you don't need to do the silicone damn that is recommended.

If you are performing the knock sensor job then a new harness is a necessity. This is the exact reason why you are performing the job in the first place. The old one shrinks with the heat and allows water to enter the knock sensor cavity. This in turn corrodes the knock sensor and damages it. The connectors on the old one are also prone to breaking upon removal since they turn brittle with age. This harness arrived well packaged in a box with the harness bagged inside. The new boots had a nice tight fit when replacing the old one. All the connectors snapped in snugly without a problem. Upon starting my 5.3 silverado the harness performed its job as intended and did not cause any problems. It is an exact replica of the original one so you should have no problems with fitment. I opted to seal the new boots entirely with RTV even though the service bulletin only calls to create a dam in the front half of the boot.Some things to note if you are performing the knock sensor job on a GM:Make sure you have an open weekend to perform this job, It will take upwards of 6-8 hours.As noted below, since the manifold will be off, now will be an excellent time to replace optional parts. You might also want to do additional maintenance such as cleaning the IAC, MAF and throttle body.Parts you will need:2 Knock sensors (usually only the rear gets damaged but since this is a large job you might as well swap them both)1 Knock sensor harness (The old one will be useless. The boot wont seal tight and the connectors will be brittle and likely break)1 Intake manifold gasket (This is a given. You do not want to do this and have a vacuum leak after putting it all back together)1 Throttle body to intake manifold gasket (You will problably unmount the throttle body for easier removal and cleaning)1 RTV tube (High temp is preferred. This is used to create a dam and keep water from entering the knock sensor and corroding it)Miscellaneous Optional:1 Bottle of Throttle Body Cleaner (While the whole manifold is off you may take this time to clean the throttle body thoroughly.1 bottle of MAF cleaner (To clean the Mass Air Flow sensor and Idle Air Control Valve)Some Shop Towels: (You will be doing alot of cleaning of parts caked with grease/dirt/grime)Shop Vac:(No matter how careful you are chances are leaves or debris will fall into the cavities of the valves/knock sensor while removing the manifold. A shop vac makes quick haste of cleaning all this debris)Other parts to consider replacing while you have the manifold off:Valve cover gaskets w/grommets(This is a perfect time to replace the valve cover gaskets if you notice any small oil leaks)Heater Hose Quick Connectors:(These things are also notorious for breaking in alot of GM trucks near the firewall. If you have never replaced them, now would be a good time to replace them since you will have easy access to them)Note: I did not include any part #'s as they will vary per vehicle application.

These came with the GM parts house decals on them. I tested them to check the resistance and they were at 99.8 ohms. They are temporarily installed on my L59 engine and are working well so far. I'm thinking about not pulling the intake as these are mounted under it on the Gen 3 engines and mounting them on the sides of the heads like a Gen 4 engine.

This is not a complicated device. The connectors clipped firmly onto my OEM sensors. The rubber seals fit very firmly into the valley cover openings, unlike my OEM seals that spun freely in the hole. The wires were of the correct length and had the proper clip on the harness connector that allowed it to clip onto the manifold in the OEM location. It was a flawless victory. (2003 GMC Yukon, 5.3L LM7 V8)

It’s ok, it’ll work for what I need it for.

These fits very snug in the knock sensor holes. The wires seem to be a decent gauge and even have electrical tape, and plastic covering most of it.Replaced harness while doing the knock sensors. No more CEL. Make sure you test your new knock sensors before installing them as there have been many bad ones right out of the box lots of YouTube videos on how to test the resistance and the AC voltage when tapped.

Excellent value. Installed in my 2004 Sierra 2500 4 X 4 6.0 V8 Denali Crew Cab. I had to replace the knock sensors, and I recommend replacing the harness as the same time. I also recommend you do both sensors even if one is gone.Tips:Recommend you have RTK Sealant on hand to seal around the rubber. This is a common repair and reportedly GM recommends this when replacing the knock sensors. Hopefully your truck will only require one replacement, and the sealant will help ensure that.Have a vacuum cleaner to remove the crap you will find under the intake. It is hard to brush, and you don't want it falling into any of the ports.Also recommend throttle body cleaner. For my truck, you have to remove the intake. I recommend you clean the throttle body at the same time since you will have easy access to take the throttle body to the bench and spray out both sides. Throttle bodies uses specific spray. Don't use carb cleaner or other stuff.

Fits the 288 GM knock sensor perfectly.

Worked perfectly for the newer style knock sensors I had to put in my 98 corvette

buena calidad de materiales exactamente, las mismas medidas que el cable original, muy recomendable

Excellent quality would definitely recommend this item and seller.

Fits perfect in my avalanche 2002 z71, fast delivery, looks like original

Perfect replacement worked awesome