Dorman 926-959 Patented Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing with Oil Cooler and Filter Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)

I don’t often write reviews, but I had to for this one. I work as a mobile mechanic, and I get a lot of calls for failing oil coolers on Chrysler products — especially the 300s. The original oil cooler is notorious for leaks and a ton of related issues. Whenever I replace a failing cooler, I always look for quality parts is best compared or above OEM standards, and this one goes above and beyond. Not only do you get a complete aluminum oil cooler, but it also comes with the oil filter and intake manifold seals, replacement screws for installation, and a port plug for specific models — which alone would cost about $80–$90 separately. This kit was clearly made with mechanics in mind. It saves me time and money by including everything I need in one box, so I don’t have to make an extra trip to the parts store. If anything, I wish this came with injector seals but that’s me being picky. The included gaskets are high-quality, and the color-coded design with a card explaining the gasket change - a nice touch. The cooler performs better than the original and keeps temperatures lower. Installation-wise, the cooler itself is easy. The hard part is just getting to it. Once installed, it fits perfectly in the valley, and I’ve had no oil pressure issues at all - in all my time installing these units. If you want to save around $150, buy it online. And if you want to save yourself a headache, get the Dorman cooler. Trust me, this isn’t a job you’ll want to redo.

The install is a bit of a pain. But the part has been perfect. Fits perfectly. Sealed perfect. It is exactly the part I needed. A major upgrade from the stock plastic one that leaked horribly. 2020 jeep gladiator overland.

have a damn solid mechanic. I thought I had a leak — I did not — but since this part is recommended to be replaced every 36k–50k miles and my Mojave was at about 50k, I opted in. I did quite a bit of research on this product. First off, most are made in the same factory in China but go through extensively different quality control processes. This includes Dorman and Mishimoto. I can’t say how many factories or which makes which, but know they are all made there. The biggest difference is the aluminum oil reservoir — some are made differently, and they don’t all sit well. Dorman’s unanimously has the best seal. That said, you really should use Mopar and Fel-Pro Viton seals — they are the blue and green ones. The red Viton are not as good and have failure issues. Also, use Mopar O-rings, use Mopar sensors, and use orange threadlocker — it’s a bridge between blue and red, literally made for stuff like this. Lastly, pay attention to torque specs on the cap — that’s the biggest failure point for the Dorman. The “best” fix is to couple it with a Baxter adapter, but that’s another ~$400, and those are debatable. The most important thing is to follow the torque specs and don’t over-torque the cap — over-torquing compresses the O-ring, which is where most failures occur. It’s not an easy job. Each part has different torque specs, and most reported failures are due to user error and incorrect torquing. If you don’t have the proper tools, buy the part, buy the seals and sensors I mentioned, and bring it to a shop that charges hourly. Use a Wix XP filter and Mobil 1 High Performance oil. The shop I took mine to installs these regularly. I wasn’t the only one there that day, but I was the only person who brought the full kit I specified, and the mechanic was very impressed and stoked because all he had to do was build and install it. Look — it’s a great quality product that is built to fit perfectly, keep oil pressure at the correct levels, and serve as an OEM replacement. It’s covered by warranty as long as you follow OEM installation guidelines.

It was missing 1 bolt for the cooler, but i used my old bolt. I followed the torque pattern and specs. Everything went well, I had never installed one of these before. No leaks and it definitely is better than oem.

2017 Jeep Cherokee V6 3.2 Tried a knockoff as the price point was awesome. But it didn’t fit into the oil return port. The Dorman was a perfect fit . Just wish it came with the sensors . Since I had the knock off and the Dorman side by side , I could see the craftsmanship in the Dorman was definitely better. Well worth the price and as long as you go slow and have all the tools you need, pretty easy to diy

Installed into a 2019 dodge caravan. Had to sand down some shape and built up edges to make sure no flakes ended up in the engine. Perfect fit and gaskets seem like good quality for aftermarket installation. 25000 miles later and still no leaks or issues. Oils filter is cheap and should be replaced at 5k miles or less.

Great solution for a crappy design. Dorman for the win on this one! Everything you need to replace, all gaskets, and an oil filter are included. Fits and functions perfectly. I strongly encourage you to change oil when your in there. Coolant will leak into the oil pan.

The product is made in Malaysia and is of low quality. Why was it not made clear that it was made in Malaysia? I want American made. In general, the quality is bad. There is no professionalism in the final appearance. Aluminum alloy inserts are not equal and I do not recommend purchasing them.

After smelling a strong odour coming through my heater vents, I initially thought the exhaust was leaking but the pools of oil rapidly forming under the car let me to research leaks on the Grand Caravan, and this became the number one culprit. I watched a bunch of videos online about how to replace this, and as a fairly competent home mechanic with basic level tools I took my time, checked and double checked everything, and had the whole thing done in probably 3-4 hours outdoors on the driveway. It's been a week and no more smells or oil leaks. It's not the cheapest replacement part, but the quality appears to be good, and there is some basic assembly required so make sure you have all the tools before you start. A lb-in torque wrench is a good idea if you want to be precise as well as something like water pump pliers or hoseclip removal pliers. Car trim removal tools proved really useful for loosening old hoses. Also, I'd recommend getting an oil transfer/extractor syringe that will make light work of cleaning out most of the pooled oil that will have collected in the valley between the cylinder banks. Much better than soaking it up with paper towels. In some online guides they will instruct you to remove the fuel hose from the injector manifold - i found it easier and quicker to remove the airbox, leave the fuel rail connected and simply flip the injector manifold over to where the airbox used to be.

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Installed a few months ago and still no problem. Throw away the plastic OEM junk and replace it with Dorman alloy parts. That's the way to go.

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