SL32 2R025 (Pack of 2) Aqua-Rite Thermistor, ICL 2 OHM 20% 25A 30MM

Use these as a replacement for the thermistor found on the circuit board on my Aquarite salt cell controller for my swimming pool. Usually get about 5 years or so out of them before they go bad a need to be replaced. It is a easy replacement once you remove the board from the control box. Just need to have basic soldering skills. Will certainly buy again when needed.

Used this part as so many do to fix my Aquarite salt generator. I did this repair once many many years ago as I have been using the Aquarite units since my pool was installed in 1999. This is not the original Aquarite. It’s been replaced at least once as I recall. What was strange this time was when I opened the unit the thermistor (this part) was disconnected from its solder joints as if someone had “snipped” the connecting wires right at the solder joints at the board. The thermistor was just laying there on top of another component loose as of it had just fallen to that point. It was not falling apart or burnt looking. So I simply soldered the existing thermistor back to the board and thought it was fixed. Indeed it appeared fixed at first since the led lights were then working to indicate power and generation of chlorine. Unfortunately the next day the lights were off again and I found the thermistor in exactly the same spot as before - laying on another component below where it was supposed to be soldered in. Again the solder joints had failed. Fortunately I had ordered this thermistor 2 pack the day before because I wasn’t sure that the thermistor I had simply soldered back was actually good. Even though I was originally hopeful when the lights came on at first. But I knew it was old. Maybe 7 to 10 years? So I soldered one of the new thermistors in after shortening the leads a bit. The originally leads are so long I was concerned the thermistor may contact the front plate if left that long. But I only removed 1/4 inch or so. The unit is again working and time will tell if the thermistor falls off again. My theory is the thermistor had gone bad and was perhaps super heating causing the solder joints to melt. Perhaps the short leads contributed to that as well. I had read somewhere to ensure the leads were somewhat long so the thermistor body wasn’t too close to the board as it get hot. Like 400 degrees hot! If this doesn’t work I’ll have to buy a whole new board. I hope this info helps someone. Update: it’s been almost a week now and the new thermistor has not fallen off or failed. I believe the old one was defective and this is just what was needed to fix the unit. This saved a substantial amount of money over a whole new board or box! It does also demonstrate that we’ve become a society of “toss and replace” however with nothing being fixed anymore. I say that because this thermistor repair is not something your local pool service company would offer as an option. They would only replace the entire board at a cost of several hundred dollars!

Worked as expected for a replacement on pool salt generator.

Using it for salt chlorinator, replace it every season or two.

My ECM blower motor went out on my furnace. I determined that the thermistor was blown. I replaced it with one of these and I have heat agin. I couldn’t be happier.

Hayward Aquarite current limiter replacement, worked perfectly. Initial issue: Aquarite would power up but the green power LED light would not come on, flow switch indicator working correctly, LCD board working but the main board was missing 12Vac. Forums stated to check for a cracked current limiter (mine was cracked) replaced with this part, main board powered up normally, got 12Vac now.

Replaced mine on my pool salt generator and it’s working again. Saved me $1000’s.

I was surprised to see my chlorine level at ZERO when I was checking my chemicals. I checked my salt level and that was fine. I opened my chlorinator controller and found that all the signal LEDs ("Power", "Generating Chlorine", etc.) were dark yet my numeric display was still operating. A Google search of this symptom directed me to an often failed Thermistor on the main PCB. I powered down my pool equipment at the breaker panel and opened up the chlorinator electrical and located the Thermistor. It looked a little burnt. When I touched it, the Thermistor shattered (I guess I won't need to get to my meter to see if it is bad) . I removed the PCB and found the replacement part on Amazon and ordered it. In the meantime I added chlorine shock to the pool and a couple of tablets of chlorine to a chlorine floater. The part arrived in two days. I removed the fried Thermistor and I soldered in the new one and trimmed the leads. I put the circuit board back in the controller box and fired it up. The chlorinator functioned normally and started generating chlorine. Actual time working at the kitchen table on the circuit board was about 10 minutes (including pics). $8 repair! I am sure if you call a pool service for a salt system chlorinator with no lights showing, it will be a minimum three digit figure to start. The purchase comes with two Thermistors in a small plastic bag. You will only use one. Tape the plastic bag with the leftover Thermistor inside the controller (away from the electronics) otherwise you won’t remember where you put it years from now when the controller fails again. You can find Youtube videos that will walk you through this if you are not used to working on PCBs. If you found this info and/or photos helpful, please click the button so more people see the review and the pics.