Blaupunkt 1500W 1-Channel, Monoblock Amplifier

i almost returned this amp because it wasn't loud but then i switched speakers from one dual-voice coil Pioneer TSA301D4 - 12" @2 ohms in a Bazooka tube to dual Kenwood WFC3012 - 12's @4 ohms in sealed box and now it thumps, hard! Leveraging my portable battery/power station, i hooked-up much bass w/o touching a single car wire or battery (lowers the safety hazards and simplifies the installation to ez drop-in)..UPDATE: switched from gray-carpet sealed to white ported subwoofer enclosure, thumps about the same but ported box is slightly smaller & much lighter in weight (i old w/ bad back, neck, shoulders..)

If your car audio budget is low but you want some moderate power to drive a woofer or two, you can't go wrong with this amp. It will drive a 2 ohm load without issue and comes with a nice metal bass knob that has a blue LED light on it. It's class D so its also efficient. I wasn't expecting much from this amp but after installing it and listening to it at moderate volume for a few hours I can say I'm impressed. It stays cool and is able to produce the low bass notes as well as solid kick drums and the like.

I don't know what shenanigan's are going on with the 1500W advertisement of this amp but it's a lie. It's even printed on the box and on the amp itself. Fortunately I knew that going in from the other reviews and the size and amperage draw. I suspect the Model 1501 means 150W/1 channel. In my case I'm using it to drive the stock 8" subwoofer on a 2019 F150 Raptor with a B&O system. I installed a LOC, rewired the stock DVC sub for 2 ohms and connected this amp. It drives it nicely and is the way FORD should have done it from the start. That wattage is perfect for the factory setup and I'm completely happy. Originally I had pulled the factory sub woofer setup and installed a Blaupunkt 8" powered sub woofer and it worked okay, better than factory to a point, but the non-ported box left a lot to be desired for range. Going back to the factory enclosure with this amp is the way to go. For what it is, it hits. I suspect I'll eventually upgrade the factory speaker to a Kicker but for now, I'm getting my money's worth.

I hooked this up to a 12" Kicker with a 600w RMS. Amp is at about 3/4 gain and it does perfectly. Hits well. Filter will of course need to be adjusted like with any amp. Value for money though Blaupunkt is always top notch.

Ok Amp for the money, bass does drop out at higher volume, I am using a Kenwood head unit to power 4- 6" infinity door speakers and the Blaupunkt amp powering 1 Blaupunkt 10" sub woofer.. Works fine for my application as I just needed some bass for a good sound and I don't listen to music that needs a lot of bass. If you listen to a lot of music with big bass and want a thumping system, this amp is not for you..

I recently installed a stereo system in the family car. The factory deck no longer worked and the speakers had dry rotted out (paper cone).I selected this amplifier to run a 10 inch Rockville shallow mount subwoofer in a sealed small box enclosure. It drives the sub quite well and so far no heating problem, but I I don't listen to it at extreme volume either. No alternator whine or ground loop issues either. I used the 1504 4 channel version of this product for full range sound and it works great too. It's definitely not SPL shoot out contest equipment at all, but for my use, it does good 👍.73 Earnest K5EWM.

I have two AMP1501's. Each drives a 1000w P2P, 4 ohm, ultra high-mass voice coil speaker. Ample control of bass gain, input sensitivity, and low pass bandwidth. I used a variable amplitude 40Hz sine wave source to tune sub-woofer settings, but tuning with full-range music source can get close enough for most applications. Application is outside, patio/pool sound system, large open area, 4 mains and 2 subs. Sound quality and cost are well balanced for this application. Sure, you can spend much more, but it's not a home theater or fine-music setting. Specs say 2 ohm stable, but for these large watt subs I prefer to drive each separate and keep heat/temperature low. Results: units should last longer and distort less.

There are many inflated power specs on Amazon, this amp claims to run 563W RMS at 4 Ohms, I can tell you right now that is a huge lie.Not only do the two 20A fuses point towards this lie, a certified amp dyno run by Williston Audio Labs clocked this Amp in at only outputting 165W RMS, which is only 30% of the actual claimed RMS power!My own testing gave a similar result, I don't have a fancy amp dyno but I cranked everything up and used a multimeter on the output and it only gave me a reading of 156W RMS. Looking at the efficiency calculations also this is NOT a Class D amplifier. A Class D amp has an efficiency of around 90%, whereas testing shows this one has an efficiency of around 60% which is more in line with a Class AB amplifier.The included remote is okay and does the job, but you are better off paying a little more for an amplifier that is better quality, and actually provides accurate specifications for its power output. There are many resources out on the internet that review amplifiers and weed out the bad ones, I wish I did before I purchased this one.