100W TEC Thermoelectric Cooler Peltier 12V

I bought this device for some, let's say, lab tests / project and is working very good. From my tests, if you want to use it at its full capacity you will most probably need a big copper heatsink (with thermal paste) on the hot side; also a fan on this heatsink is recommended.As said the product is very good for the price, however, as this device is usually used inside a computer, it doesn't come with a power connector; that could be nice plus.

Very efficient, note, you need a substantial heat sink to get the best from this thermoelectric cooler and a power supply equal to at least 8.5 amps preferably 10 Amos to give a little 'headroom '

Does not work. Peltier device should cool on one side and heat on other. This device just heats when connected to a battery. No cooling detectable. Frankly a simple wire resistance would produce the same effect as observed. Very dissapointed at product.

This thermoelectric element was tested on lab bench DC supply at 12V and it appears it draws around 3A, while at 15.6 it drew 4A. Thus I cannot get near the rated 100W, but rather 60W at best.The spec of the quoted type number TEC1-12709 is meant to sink Vmax : 15.2V I max (A): 9A

All as it should be, thanks.

Works extremely well. However not 6cm size as per listing spec. It's the 4cm version. Be aware there is no thermal cutout so be sure to have a control circuit, don't get distracted while its connected to a bench supply. Also ensure good thermal connectivity to heatsink as it transfers a lot of heat and will quickly get hot both sides without a decent heatsink (I'd say fan cooled if you want to run at full power).

My best advice on is this after learning that a 100W of the right size really existed is to focus on the basics. What does it let you do - move your heatsink. Possibly even out of the case or into a coolant.While you’re at it, make sure you follow all normal procedures for getting the best thermal seals possible (remembering that a mistake in this instance also carries the potential for condensation and water damage) another reason to perhaps instal some control circuitry governed by pyrometer (or by the CPU’s own pyrometer - perfect in fact).Use a tiny bit of paste to buff into the cleaned metal then probably best use a graphite sheet (better than any paste if done properly) now put the peltier cold side down! And you now have a choice. 80% of the time you’d be ok, especially if you rigged up a -ve feedback system for peltier current and die temp. However, you have two choices when it comes to shunting the heat. Do it hot, or do it cold. Neither would also work. Just use a huddle of heat pipes to get from A to B, and when finished, put all the final stuff on you want to keep there. The same principle applies to anything requiring cooling so you really could run everything out of the PC and into well for arguments sake Liquid Nitrogen. This would have made my record attempts much easier without having to put the whole bloody PC in very slowly!

Bought two of these to make my own cooler for the summer to blow cool air over me at the office. My design is not finished as yet but the two next to each other is much better than stacked on top of each other. At 100 Watts each you need a meaty power supply to power the units which is good for a work environment but not so effective in the home. Make sure you have thermal paste to link to your heatsinks and don't power them without. Delivery was quick and exactly like the photograph.