qt Zinsser 854 Clear SealCoat Universal Sanding Sealer

I recently purchased two matching antique bed frames made out of wood with a headboard and footboard each. They were quite dirty but otherwise in good shape. After cleaning them up, I wanted to restore the finish and add a layer of polyurethane for extra protection. After researching, I decided to start off with SealCoat since I did not know what the original stain or sealant was made of. I was so glad I found this product after searching "wood sealer" on Amazon, because you can't really find it in stores. This sealant goes on quite easily with a brush, and truly adheres to any surface, coating, or sealant. It also does a magical job of restoring a finish- my project was looking rough after a thorough clean with magic erasers, simple green, and a light sanding. After the first coat, any hazy spots, scratches, or weird water rings completely disappeared and it dried to a beautiful finish. I ended up doing two coats with a light sand (220 or finer) in-between coats. This SealCoat doesn't provide a super durable finish, so I opted to add two coats of water based polyurethane on top. The polyurethane adhered wonderfully to the SealCoat even without sanding. The project turned out great and I'm so happy I found this product which was very easy to use and produced an amazing result.

This sh loac worked perfectly to seal the sides and back of icon panels.

Good quality shellac for a variety of applications. I usually prefer waxed shellac for wood surfaces, but this works well if you're going to put polyurethane on over top of it. It dries very quickly as well.

I love this product. it has saved me more times than I can count. I use it as a blotch controller, a grain filler, a chatoyance enhancer (my favorite) use over BLO (boiled linseed oil) before a clear top coat. This can be used as a barrier between an oil finish and a water base finish once the oil has cured. I use this to seal MDF edges that can soak up many coats of paint. This even can be used as a polished top coat. But that's not recommended. From personal experience 3 coats is the max if your painting over it with water based or it will craze the top coat. I generally use 2 coats, first to raise the grain then sand with 180 knock it back smooth then second coat to smooth it out before a top coat. Everything sticks to it and vise a versa, that's the beauty of Seal Coat. Its almost magic in a can. Just don't lay it on too thick or it will craze.

Did quite well sealing some odor from off gassing adhesive on wood.

This stuff has so many uses. My biggest hobby is woodworking and I have found so many uses for this stuff. I use it on the top of my assembly bench to keep the hardboard surface smooth and looking good. It makes any type of water based liquids I might spill absorb a lot slower so I have time to wipe them up before it completely destroys my work surface. This stuff works perfectly as a wood conditioner. If you are staining a wood that is prone to blotching. A cut of this stuff with some denatured alcohol with do the trick. You can also use it when you are staining really porus wood species to control the amount of the stain that is absorbed into the wood. Its uses do not stop there though. A couple coats of this stuff on some MDF and it seals it up quite nicely. If you are painting any type of wood and you want a glassy smooth finish. Use this as your initial coating. Sand it smooth then prime it or paint directly over it. You can also use Zinsser Shellac based primer for this, but this seal coat is a little easier to work with. This seal coat does not add that unwanted yellow hue to any wood. You can also tint it with dye. I always keep few quarts of this stuff in my shop.

First, I never write reviews. I think this is actually the first one I've ever written. But, I thought I'd take the opportunity to part some knowledge on a very particular kind of use for this product for a very particular stain technique, and that is what's called a "dirty wipe." Wood stain is meant to absorb into wood. You apply it, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe it off. What is left on the wood are the microscopic pigment particles, which give the stain its color, most of which absorb into the wood. Some of those particles lay on top of the wood even after you wipe the stain off and it dries, but not many off. Most absorb into the wood. Of course, your finally step is to top coat. And here's where problems can and will occur, particularly if you use a dirty wipe technique for applying your stain. A dirty wipe is when you apply a stain, but you do not completely wipe it off, leaving a little bit on the wood to dry. This is usually done to achieve a darker appearance. The more coats of a dirty wipe you do, the more stain dries on top of the wood, and of course, the darker your stain will look. Here is where major league problems can occur. Most oil based top coats, particularly oil based polyurethanes, use the same exact vehicle to apply your oil based stains... solvents, usually mineral spirits. The major problem with this is that solvents are also used to clean and break down oil based stains. Those solvents can severely smear and blotch your stain job. When staining in a normal manner, that is, allowing the stain to penetrate into the wood, then wiping completely off, you have fewer problems using a solvent based poly because those pigment particles are absorbed into the wood, and are "hidden" away into the wood's pores. However, when using a dirt wipe technique, where many of the stain's pigment particles are laying on top of the wood, solvent based poly will do nothing but smear and smudge all those exposed pigment particles, leaving a horrid looking mess. This, is where using this dewaxed shellac comes in. After a dirty wipe stain application, simply apply this product before you use a solvent-based poly top coat. The dewaxed shellac is has very little solvents in it and it will not smear your stain. It will seal it, lock it into place, and provide a barrier between your stain and poly top coat. You can very lightly sand your dewaxed shellac coat with 400 grit sandpaper, then apply your solvent based poly, worry-free, as your top coat is now being laid over the sealcoat, and will not touch or smear/blotch your stain. And viola! a problem solved before ruining your project and stain job BEFORE the problem occurs. This was an EXCELLENT solution to my fears of destroying all of my hard work before I top coatted with solvent based poly.

For Zinsser: Why do i have to mail order de-waxed shellac?? Big Boxes used to carry it now all they carry is the standard Zinnser product which is far less desirable. If you were going to discontinue or limit the availability of a product line why not go with the less versatile waxed shellac products?? Anyway, for Everybody Else: Go ask for it in the big boxes maybe they will start stocking it again. SealCoat is great. I use it as sanding sealer b/c it will stick to almost anything and almost anything will stick to it. It raises grain a little but once sanded the wood is sealed and the grain will not raise again under the any further finishing steps. When sanded after this initial seal coat it can be re-coated and progressively sanded to provide as smooth a base coat or final finish as desired for all finishes I use. One note of caution make sure you mechanically sand sealcoat carefully. Dry sanding with a random orbit sander can be done carefully with 400 grit "no-hole" sanding discs with low pressure applied to the sander, otherwise it will melt from the heat and you will have clean (with De-Nat alcohol) and re-coat. I use a slow speed polisher then/or hand sand/polish when I'm doing any clear finish or when I use it as the final finish. Also this stuff does have a limited shelf life, I retire a can as a final finish after 6months for this reason but I have used a 1-2year old 1 gallon can as sanding sealer under Oil Based Enamel with no noticeable problems 2+ years later. This was on a work bench in my garage however not a piece of fine furniture. I will use my "old" sealcoat for this type of application in the future.

Good

Tolles Zeug, nur leider schwer zu beschaffen und dann mit hohen Transportkosten

As advertised

Works as described in all the wood turning videos I watched

Livraison rapids. Non produit. Bonnie transaction