LET'S RESIN Dice Resin Molds Silicone, DND Dice Epoxy Resin Molds with 7 Standard Polyhedral Stereoscopic Dice Cavities, Silicone Molds for Epoxy Resin, DIY Dices Making, Table Board Game

First time uv resin user. Wanted to make dice for my gamer family for Christmas. I've tried single molds but this one with all the dice in one mold works so much easier. Perfect size. Dice come out easily. They do need a little clean up but I chalk that up to user error. Nice clean lines on the dice. I can't wait to make all my gamer family dice in their favorite colors now.

This is absolutely an amazing mold! With a little technique, you can easily get an excellent D20 container, orgiant liquid core Di. Here are my recommendations: Warm the liquid resin after mixing to about 1oo degrees, and pour in layers. Start with about 6 ounces of mixed resin. I used a 1:1 ratio resin and did 3 ounces of part A and then another 3 of part B. 1) Fill the lid to where the corners are, and not to the top of the lid. At the same time make your first pour into the body, filling that to just before the line where you will be connecting the what will be the bottom of the dice (the silicone piece with the plug in it is what I am referring to as the bottom) 2) squeeze around the corners of the lid and push any air bubbles out. This is why you don't want to fill this part all the way first. Otherwise you will make a mess when squeezing out any bubbles trapped in the corners. 3) Remove the plug from the bottom piece and attach onto the body of the mold. There is a pull tab on one lip of the bottom that aligns with a corresponding gap on side of the lip around the edge of the body of the mold. Use a hot glue gun to seal around the edges where the bottom and body of the mold meets. (I put a picture of what this looks like with the review) 4) make up another 6 oz of resin and heat to about 100 degrees (heating helps with removing bubbles). Have a needle or pin handy. Now you can tp off the lid of the mold, then start SLOWLY pouring the resin into the hole provided into your now assembled body and bottom mold piece. The needle is for poking into the hole anytime the resin blocks the hole, which it may during the pour, especially if you are pouring inclusions into the mold like the gold foil I Used. I would NOT recommend putting the plug into the mold. 5) wait about 30 minutes for the resin to settle and bubbles to pop, then make another 2 of of resin and bring to temp. Use this to tip off the body of the mold as the resin settles and bubbles rise. I would check the mold every 15 minutes or so and add mor3 resin as needed until it it done settling. Even with quicker curing resin, I would recommend waiting at least a full 24 hours before attempting to demold. I know that seems involved, but you get great results with a little planning and care. I did have a pressure pot, however it is small and these are not so easily movable into said pot once filled. Plus, they came out fine without the pot. I hope this helps anyone wanting to try this out!

Update: I'm adding one star back on for the great customer service from Let's Resin. They reached out after I left my review and showed a genuine interest in my experience and tried to help find a solution. While I stand by my initial review, I'm happy to add that it's a great company that cares about it's customers. I think they make quality products and I will continue to use their them. ---------------- I love the IDEA of this mold but it just doesn't work! I am not a beginner so I thought I'd give it a shot. I made sure the lid was seated correctly and used a whole extra long glue gun stick. It still leaked!! It looks great from the front but the back has a weird divot. My other issue is that it's so big. My pic shows how much room there is with one set of dice in it. It's just so much resin for a product that I don't think anyone will want to buy. I really wanted it to work but it just doesn't.

I bought this dice mold as a beginner mold, and it served me very well for over a year before I'd used it so much that it started to tear and fall apart. I'll be getting the upgrded version soon!

These do not make great dice. There’s an unavoidable lip for the one face on the d20 and the mold is so thin and flimsy that it’s easy for the dice to come out with slightly concave faces, that are absolutely no fun to sand and polish. That said, they were an affordable entry point for me and I do actually quite like the typeface used for the numbers. These have become my “experiment” molds, the ones I use to try new things when I don’t expect perfection. First comes to worst, they make cute keychain dice.

I am relatively new to resin crafting, but I am also new to D&D and I wanted to make my own dice. This mold is definitely not for beginners if only because of the nuances of working with resin. My first set of dice came out quite hideous with air bubble holes everywhere. Part of that was because I removed the cover after I applied it. My second set came out much, much better, even without the use of a pressure pot, with only a couple tiny air bubble holes in certain dice. This is a great mold overall, however. It feels very sturdy and is easy to demold. It does take a steady hand to pour the resin in to the small holes, but the form is very forgiving.

Really unhappy with this mold. I've tried a set 3 different times and tried making just single pieces and still very unhappy. My husband makes wood dice towers and these are larger than standard size sets, the edges are so sharp they are uncomfortable in the hand, it's almost impossible to get the bubbles out, it's very flimsy, and the numbers could be a little deeper for filling. We were hoping to make custom sets to go with the towers, now I am out money and left with a mold I will never use again.

Originally bought to try to see if air dry clay would work in it, long story short all it did was preserve the clay as if it was brand new. But for resin the molds allow easy pop out of the dice when they are solid.

I bought these as an introduction to resin casting and dice making. They work great! It took some figuring out, but once I got the hang of it I had no problems at all. As far as the mould itself goes, I have no complaints whatsoever, and any issues I had with it were easily be solved with a better understanding of the process. So, the rest of this review is just some tips and things I've learned from using this mould. These moulds use a little less than 1.5 oz resin from my testing. My measuring cups only go as low as 1 oz, so I actually bought a second set of these moulds so I wouldn't waste resin. You'll wanna overfill these moulds a little bit, lower the lid on slowly and at an angle, and don't squeeze the lid all the way flush. Resin shrinks as it cures, so leaving that extra bit of resin will prevent the dice from becoming concave. You can remove the flashing easily once they've cured, but having too little resin and a tight seal will create a vacuum, resulting in collapsed faces. You might also want to "paint" the numbers on the lid with some resin before you put the lid on to make sure you get a clean bond and no air pockets. It's a bit messy, but I found it was a lot easier to get good results this way. My first few attempts always had air bubbles in the holes of the 0s on the d100. Once I started pre-filling them, I had no issues. Also be sure to inject resin right to the bottom of the d4, as an air pocket tends to form right at the bottom. I find I have the most trouble getting clean casts of the d4 and the d20: The d4 has very sharp corners, making it easy to create air pockets on the sides and corners; the d20 is pretty much impossible to get the 1 side flush with the other faces, and truthfully, I wouldn't worry about that as much as making sure there's no air pockets just underneath the opening. The d8, the d10, and the d12 almost always came out perfect. Another thing to keep in mind: there's only so much you can do to reduce bubbles. Mix slowly, pour carefully, and make sure every corner is filled adequately. I used a pipette to suck up some of the bigger bubbles, but microscopic bubbles seem to always be present without extra tools or a LOT of care, and no mould is going to fix that on its own. If you do want those crystal clear dice with no air bubbles, you probably need to invest in a pressure chamber, and maybe use a mould that uses sprues and a reservoir system instead, just to make sure there's some enough material to fill those spaces. But that's getting into advanced stuff, and if you're at that level, you're probably making your own moulds anyway. I found that, depending on the weather, it took about 24 hours for my resin to cure fully in these moulds, using the resin from the same company (Let's Resin Crystal Clear Epoxy Resin). I keep a little bit of the waste resin around in a container so I can get an idea of how close to cured they are without disturbing the dice. But typically, I start them in the morning and extract them the next afternoon (about 36 hours), and they're always fully cured. I hope these tips are helpful if you do try this out. It's a great product, and a very fun and satisfying hobby! Happy dicemaking everyone!!

This has to be the most difficult mould I’ve ever bought! Can’t get it done properly in either resin or eco pour,, cost a lot of money and then the shipping on top, no wonder I don’t see any YouTube influencers using this mould, total waste of money!!!

Just used for the first time since buying and the middle of the mold sits to high making a box with a big hole in the bottom. £24 for a mold that's useless!!

Great little mould. I am a novice still when it comes to resin but I have made 4 sets of dice and the first two weren't great but with some practice and a few tutorials I found online, my last 2 sets have been basically bubble free and easy to clean up. The blue ones are without any paint and the purple ones are painted and sealed (though I need to find a better seal then a 'brush on' sealer lol). I find this super easy to demould and I use the Let's Resin 2 part epoxy resin, upgraded formula. I found the longer working time just enough to get as few bubbles as possible. I found 2oz of resin perfect (1oz of both A and B for a total of 2oz) to fill each cavity (plus a touch of overfill), 'paint' lid and have some left over to keep aside in the disposible cups I use to mix my resin to keep track of how far it's cured. A few tips I found with this mould: 1) fill the cavities about half full then use a toothpick or tiny brush to push the resin into all the sides (especially important on the d3 and d8) 2) fill the rest of the way with a slight overfill (too much resin will give you bubbles and too little will leave gaps when it shrinks while curing) 4) 'paint' resin on the numbers on the lid 5) tap the mould on the table or with your fingers to help any bubbles come to the top. 5) wait a minute or two then pop any bubbles on the surface with a lighter. (Carefully!) 6) roll lid on slowly, start on one side and slowly work the lid down to flat 7) put something heavier on top (I use books) this mould is sturdier then it looks and can hold a bit more weight then I expected. (picture 3) If you plan to sell dice as a business I'd probably not use this mould and invest in something sturdier.But for a fun hobby activity, this is a fine introductory product.

I've had great luck with this mold as I have 3 of them. The only real complaint that I have is the d20 is not uniform in the mold. The top face doesn't have complete corners in the mold and leaves a ridge around the edge. Without major sanding and reshaping we have been unable to get clean sharp edges around the 1 face. Even looking more carefully at the mold itself shows that the corners aren't sharp like the rest. Wishing the mold was shaped a bit better..