Kinter MA170+ 2-Channel Auto Home Cycle Arcade DIY 2 x 18 W Mini Amplifier Bass Treble RCA Input Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 3A Power Supply Black

UPDATE #2, April 7, 2024: I am bumping this to 5 Stars, why?Kinter reached out to me and offered a FULL REFUND of my Amp, Kinter MA170. I didn't expect any sort of refund, after all, the unit was Waaaay past the 30 day return window. However, Kinter DID NOT want me to return it, apologized for the error of my getting a refurbished unit and not a new one. I actually told them I didn't expect or even want a full refund, but would accept a 50% refund, so after a message or 2 between Kinter and myself, Kinter gave me a 100% refund. This was, and is way above your normal customer service, it shows me Kinter cares about their product line, and their customers satisfaction.I also told Kinter what the main cause of the issue causing the Amp to randomly turn off/on, or just shut down was, that the Amp heatsink was too long, that it needed to be shimmed down by 2/32 of an inch to prevent contact with the Amp IC leads.Kinter also stated they upgraded the Amp IC, which is a little smaller, but they still used the same heatsink from the older Amp IC. And the person I messaged with is also passing my heatsink fix on to the manufacturer for implentation.Hence the shorting issue that occurred in my Amp, that caused the issues I had will be corrected.Which I had fixed, info on the fix can be found in my April 1, 2024 UPDATE below. So, this is why I am bumping my review of the Amp to 5 stars.Also, after correcting the oversized heatsink, so it no longer made contact with the Amp IC leads, I let my Amp operate continually in my shed for 6 days NON-STOP, in those 6 days, the Amp operated 100% normally, no drop outs, no shut downs, no random going off/on.Now that my fix is in place, the Amp has functioned far exceeding my expectations.So, yes, I can recommend this Amp and this Seller. Top notch 1st rate customer service that was above and beyond.======= END April 7, 2024 UPDATE #2 =======UPDATE April 1, 2024: I am bumping this up to 3 stars, mainly due to I found the PRIMARY ISSUE causing many of these units to stop working, or going off/on randomly when music is being output through the amp.And it is a simple fix, but WILL REQUIRE you to open the unit and take it apart, and I'll tell you what I found, and what I did to correct the issue.I removed all 10 screws, 4 from back panel, 4 on front panel, 2 screws from right side[these screws are a different size and type, they secure the main case housing through the amp IC heatsink, don't mix them up with the other 8 screws that hold the back and front faceplates to the main case!]You'll need to remove all knobs to access the securing nut on each, the main volume knob nut is recessed and will require a deep socket, or long needle nose pliars[I used needle nose pliars] to remove it[and the other nuts on the Bass and Treble components], beware, once you remove the nuts, the Bass and Treble knobs have a securing ring[slips on/off] on them behind the faceplate.Don't lose them, you'll need to put them back on the Bass and Treble knobs BEFORE reinstalling the faceplate over the shafts. Do this step[remove knobs and retaining nuts] PRIOR to removing the screws that holds the faceplate on.Once the nut has been removed from the volume control, slide the clear plastic ring off the shaft, there are 2 small protrusions on the back of this plastic piece, either one fits over the power indicator RGB color changing L.E.D. to hold it in place properly.Once opened you can change out this L.E.D. for any color L.E.D. you'd like to use, just make sure the polarity matches correctly + to +, - to -, or remove the L.E.D. entirely, your choice.Now remove the 4 screws holding the faceplate to the main casing, if you have already removed the 4 back screws, and now have the front faceplate removed, gently slide, by pushing the entire assembly minus faceplate out the back of the main case.You'll see a metal casing over the Amp IC, this is the heatsink that screws to the main casing.And this heatsink is what caused my unit to initially fail!After touching up some of the solder areas, I tested the Amp, but forgot to place the heatsink back over the Amp IC.The Amp played for over an hour, no issues UNTIL I realized I had not placed the heatsink back over the Amp IC, as soon as I put the heatsink on, less than a few seconds the Amp started randomly going off/on, or completely off, started up all over again. I used the needle nose pliars to place, and remove the heatsink.Okay, issue is back...why?I found the heatsink was making contact with the EXPOSED METAL LEADS of the Amp IC.I got out my dremel tool and shimmed the heatsink down 2/32" at ONLY THE AREA THAT COVERS THE AMP IC!DO NOT SHIM THE WINGS WHERE THE SCREW HOLES ARE!So, I took my dremel tool[adjustable speed, set it at #1 on the dial] and then ground off 2/32 of an inch of metal off the [open area that slides down over the Amp IC] heatsink, replaced the heatsink, no more random onn/off, no more Amp turning off all sound.Chances are THIS IS THE MAIN PROBLEM many users are having with this Amp cutting off/on, then going completely silent, but the power L.E.D. still shows power to the Amp.If you're not comfortable soldering, or using power tools to do this, find a friend, or pay someone to do this for you.But, if you have an Amp malfunctioning like this, this may get it working again, providing the heatsink shorting the Amp IC hasn't destroyed it.Fortunately I caught this early in my testing, and was able to resolve it before the Amp IC was destroyed.As of this update, and after shimming the heatsink down, so it can no longer make contact with the bare metal leads of the Amp IC, the Amp has been working perfectly 100% for over 9 hours straight and no problems at all, and inside a very hot storage shed, about 97°-100° in there today[no windows, no ventilation and door closed].If the heatsink was shimmed down by 2/32 of an inch at the manufacturing facility, and/or the Amp IC's leads had been covered so the heatsink couldn't create a short, I probably would have never taken my Amp apart to fix this issue, as it, in all probability may not have ever happened!If it wasn't for my having to fix this issue, I'd have probably rated this Amp 5 stars, but it gets 3 stars, it works, but only BECAUSE I FOUND, and FIXED the problem!I hope this info may help some of those experiencing these same issues get their Amp back up and operational again.≈========/ End April 1, 2024 Update =========Unfortunately my return window closed a long while back[bought this at end of Dec. 2023] and just now got around to testing it out, and I connected everything up for testing BEFORE I mounted this in the enclosure it was be going in with an MP3 Director and FM Transmitter, only the MP3 Director would be connected to the Amp.Well, I set it up using a portable CD player[testing only] to the Amp, and connected the 8-ohm outdoor speakers I use every year for my Holiday Displays.Connected power supplies, turned on Amp, turned on CD Player, turned up volume on Amp, had preset Bass and Treble knobs to center, music played through the Amp, then in LESS THAN 1 MINUTE AFTER TURNING AMP ON, music started going off/on at random, this went on for LESS THAN ANOTHER MINUTE, then the AMP JUST SHUT DOWN COMPLETELY WITH NO SOUND AT ALL.Turned power off and back on, amp played on/off music for LESS THAN 30 SECONDS, and then COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN AGAIN, NO SOUND, just that annoying RGB L.E.D. showing power, but nothing else functioned.Now I was an electronic tech/touch-up and repair person for many years, refurbished many things in my time, and I know what to look for to know if an item has been REFURBISHED, [I NEVER BUY REFURBISHED PRODUCTS, MOST OFTEN THEY FAIL QUICKLY, usually just past their warranty period, some never make it that far, refurbished items ARE NOT Q.C.'ed or tested like new products are(or should be), they are "Quick-Tested", power it on, it works, out it goes for resale, or back to the original customer.]Anyway, I opted to take this unit apart, one of the knob shafts was broken and fixed with a type plastic substance to make the knob hold the button on, when I took the button off for taking this apart, that plastic used was white, shaft was black!, and this substance cracked and splintered some. That's one tale-tell sign of a refurbished hack job, the component should have been replaced, not a jury rig fix. Missing solder on solder pads that may be used to hold components in place to prevent damage from movement was also noticable on the circuit board, very poor Q.C., even for a Quick Turn-Around repair.After, I took it apart, did some resoldering to many components, and used a computer fan to keep the amp component cool, it seems to work.But I shouldn't have to be modifying this unit!Before I reassemble it, I'm going to replace that damn annoying color changing L.E.D. to a white one, so it can supply some light inside the outdoor enclosure, so, when opened after dark to make changes, I'll have some lighting, as my lighting controller[the MP3 Director] and FM Transmitter will also be inside.I will also see if there is enough room to install a small cooling fan inside the amps case and drill holes for it to push any excessive heat out to hopefully keep it functional.But because I DID NOT RECEIVE A BRAND NEW UNIT, was sent a REFURBISHED ONE.REFURBISHED UNITS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE IDENTIFIED with a tag or sticker stating this fact! .And from reading many of the reviews that also bring these same issues up, sounds like they got a REFURBISHED unit, just like I did, and NOT A NEW UNIT!Very disappointed in this purchase, especially since I have to try and repair it, and "hope it works", and "hopefully, will last for many years" after I fix problems that should not have been here in the first place!

I'm a somewhat novice musician using a 25-watt guitar amplifier that connects to my DAW (Digital Audio Workstation) via USB for recording my playing. I needed a way to connect some studio speakers thru the DAW that do not have their own power. This small amplifier does just that.Inputs to the amp for my usage are from one of two sources: my laptop headphone jack or the RCA output jacks of my Behringer UM2 audio interface. Either method drives the speakers quite well. Speakers, BTW, are a pair salvaged from an old unused CD stereo system.So when I'm playing guitar, the output of my DAW is now being heard through the Kinter whether I'm playing through the guitar amp or the UM2. I just have to manually switch cables. The tone controls provide some impact upon output tone but I have other tone control measures at my disposal. The LED is not the least annoying to me as the amp is mostly not in my line of sight. I don't crank the volume up, mostly set at mid-range, and hear no noticeable distortion. The amp stays on most of the day waiting for me to get inspired and pick up the guitar and has not shown any signs of overheating.For now, the Kinter sits atop my guitar amp where access to controls are most convenient. At some point I'll likely find a more permanent location for mounting. Other reviews stated the unit did not last long before dying. So I'm biding my time for a while. I purchased the amp about a month ago.My purchase did arrive with a power supply and in good condition. It does not come with the required audio input cable. I purchased a 10ft RCA male 3.5mm Aux cable to connect to my laptop headphone jack. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097DQZJFQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsOverall, I'm very satisfied with the appearance and functionality of the Kinter amp. And the price ($18.99) fit my limited budget.

This is not an amp for any music you actually care about. This is, "I have a project that makes noise, and it needs an amp."Furthermore, "I can't be bothered getting a amplifier module working, and I don't want to figure out how to mount it and how to get the controls attached and I can't solder, and so on."For that limited use it's perfect. It is very small and its extruded case with mounting tabs can be screwed down to anything and hidden anywhere. The spring tabs and RCA jacks on the back are super-simple to deal with. I do wish they'd offered an 1/8" / 3.5mm Aux-style jack as well, since it just means I've got to buy one of those cables, too.The sound is unexceptional, the treble and base controls adjust the sound slightly. The big volume knob is quiet and smooth. The included power supply has an annoyingly short cableThe stupid color-changing LED is just a slow-color-changing RGB led and isn't connected to the audio at all. Once I finally open this thing up, I'll probably just replace the stupid thing.The internals are a 4558D Op-Amp coupled with a TDA7265 power amplifier on a single-sided PCB. The amplifier chip Is contained in a heat sink that would be pretty effective at coupling heat to the external fins, except it isn't tight enough and has no thermal interface compound on it. If you find it shutting down, you might be able to add some heat sink compound to extend the life of this.It is a Class-AB chip, and if I am reading this spec sheet correctly, it might be able to function correctly in bridged mode, if you want to get twice as much power out of just the left channel.

This thing has been running 12 hours a day for 6 months and runs two speakers in a workshop. Super loud and functional. Amazing power for how small It is!