Wisamic 3D Printer Silicone Heated Pad, 310x310mm 120V 750W, with Tape Screw Holes for 3D Printer Creality CR-10 /CR-10S

It was well shipped and the quality was fantastic. (thermistor was fine i have a dozen spares just in case anyway). My CR-10 was already modified with a custom mosfet and this was almost a drop in replacement. You will need a relay, your signal cables will go right into the side of the relay (their 12v) and you'll pass half the mains power through the bed with the other half connected directly to the mains power on the PSU.I used this relay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I found out the heat sink (on that relay) is entirely optional. Due to the on/off nature of the heated bed it will barely get warm. I have the heat sink on because taking it off will expose the messy thermal paste I used. I guess I could have mounted it directly to the side of the case and use the case as a heat sink. (granted there was no conductivity, I never measured any).I HIGHLY recommend tinning the ends of all the cables going into the relay to eliminate any fraying (its safer). You will need a piece of cable to go from the relay to the PSU mains power - you could cut a chunk off the heated beds cable if you dont have any - I have low gauge cable for subwoofers which was more than sufficient for the current and fit perfect.How fast does it heat up? 100c in 1min 58 sec. 140c ~2-3minIssues so far? Yup - it works too well - you need to be VERY careful it gets frighteningly hot. Your rubber wheels that roll the bed will get sloppy hot if your flirting with the 120c+ temps because the steel plate under the bed will get stupid hot.... USE INSULATION if your going to be running this hot. I use a PEi sheet of plastic over a glass plate which handles the heat fine. (using a huge amount of thermal paste between the aluminum and glass plate). Other exotic build plate materials might melt be careful. In marlin firmware, KEEP EMERGENCY BUILD PLATE TEMP FAIL-SAFES ENABLED! I have mine firmware limited to 180c but unlocked this heater will hit 250c if you wanted it to. That will destroy the printer fyi.I love it, I used to pre-warm up the heated bed because it took me 35-40 min to get to 110c, now its almost as fast as the nozzle.

Bought this as it was close to what my printer's bed size is (printer bed is 330x330) and the holes didn't matter too much for me. Install was pretty straightforward and has been working great. It heats up so fast! I wish I switched to the AC heated bed sooner.

Heats up extremely fast, especially for high temps. Installed on a CR-10 S, fits perfectly.

The screw holes don't even come close to aligning properly on my CR-10S Pro. Sending this junk back.I have updated this review with added pictures showing the rectangular pattern that Creality uses on this printer. The existing heated bed is model CR-X and it has a 250mm wide (center to center) mounting hole location with a 239.7mm deep (center to center) mounting hole location. In other words, the mounting holes are located on a rectangle that has one pair of sides at 250mm apart and the other pair of sides are 239.7mm apart.I would update this review if the manufacturer would make corrections to their design and offer it for sale.

Update May 17,2020: reduced a point from 5 to 4. Purchased a second bed heater but this one is not the same product. Heating grid has a different layout. Wires are thinner, less high temperature insulation. Looks and feels noticeably cheaper now. Will test and update as appropriate. Original review: Chose because it fit a standard CR-10 bed that is used on a SainSmart Coreception 300 eg Koonovo "Elf" eg Creative3D "ELF" series CoreXY printers. Applied mine to a 1/4" MIC6 Aluminum plate and a WHAM BAM SYSTEMS FBS 310. All wire leads are 2m long, so you should have plenty to spare. Works perfect. Heats FAST. Very pleased. Will buy again because I have 2 of these printers

Okay guys, I'm totally cereal: This heater is what you want.Bought this Wisamic 110vac heater (along with Ogrmar SSR-25 DA 25A 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC Solid State Relay and Heat Sink) for my CR-10S. Heater size is perfect, bolt holes are correctly placed. Heat bed wires are pleasantly both thick and flexible. Thermistor wires are thick enough to set a proper crimp.I applied this heater to the original Creality aluminum plate. First, removed the bed from the machine, next pealed off the black rubber insulation, then carefully scraped the remaining black rubber off with a sharp chisel and then cleaned thoroughly with isopropanol. The original 12V heater is printed onto the bottom of the aluminum plate, I just applied the 110vac heater onto the 12v heater.My heat bed now reaches temperature much faster than my hot end.AND say goodbye to burned out connectors! The 110vac heating element has a great deal more resistance than the original 12V heaters which means way less power/amp is dropped across wire connections. 12V was never really an appropriate choice for this application... 🤣

Works great. I used this on the build plate of a custom 410x410mm 3D printer and it gets up to temperature before the hot end does. It’s amazing.

Works perfectly. I used this to upgrade my Creality cr-10s 3d printer heated bed. It heats up amazingly fast. I'm very happy with it.