Wagner Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor

I bought this quite awhile back (a little over a year ago), so I have used this item a lot. I now have a more expensive (10X the cost) HVLP rig, but I have found that this little Wagner gun is so MUCH more VERSATILE and EASIER to use, that I use this one more often than the expensive one. I can spray oil-based paints and primers, as well as water-based products, with hardly any effort. Cleaning up is fast and easy, too. You CAN get a 100% perfect, professional finish IF you take your time, read and re-read the manual, and you practice with it, first. Do not expect to pull it out of the box, fill it, spray with it, and have perfect results. I suggest that you gather lots of cardboard and buy a can (quart or gallon) of cheap paint (the same type as your first project requires (water- or oil-based)). Then, buy the appropriate diluent (read the paint can), the compatible additive (i.e., Penetrol for oil-based paints and Floetrol for water-based paints). While you're at the paint store (or you are on Amazon.com) pick up some medium size (pertaining to particle filtration size, not overall size) disposable paint filters. My two spray painting mantras are, "Practice does make perfect!" and "Paint additives can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD between a professional-looking paint job, and just an awful looking paint job!" That's it in a nutshell, but I've written at length about the first time I used this sprayer. If what I learned can help you get great results on your first project, it may be worth the time it takes to read: My first project was not the smartest one to choose as a first project to paint with a spray gun. It was the wainscoting and trim in my dining room. But, it came out so perfect, that even after a year, the glassy, smooth, sprayed surfaces still impresses me so much, I cannot believe I did them! But, back then, I didn't know any better, so I thought I would just start right in with the painting, buying the exact same paint and color (Sherwin Williams Alkyd) the installers had used. I lightly sanded all of the wainscoting and trim, as best I could, to scuff up the surfaces. I also used a liquid deglosser, since sanding detailed trim is thankless, tedious work. But, most of all, I spent a lot of time caulking (using PAINTABLE caulk) areas that had pulled apart from "settling," or that were not properly caulked by the installers in the first place. I let the caulk dry thoroughly. Actually, it was all the cracks and crevices in the joined edges of the woodwork caused by improper (or complete lack of) caulking, and some due to settling, that had caused the need to paint the trim and wainscotting. Next, I started in with the viscosity tests. I used paint thinner first, but then I read up on additives. So, I switched to using a combination of paint thinner and Penetrol (by Flood, purchased at Lowes). I can't recall the exact ratio of paint thinner to Penetrol I ended up using, but I think it would be safe to say about half and half. Of course, paint thinner was what my product called for as a thinning agent. Paint additives, like Floetrol and Penetrol, help produce a smooth, glassy finish. The additives can help make up for a multitude of sins! For example, if you did not properly adjust your air/paint flow, you could end up with a painted surface that has an orange peel texture (a common problem). If it's not too bad, the additives themselves can make that problem completely disappear! But, that's not too surprising, because one of their purposes is to reduce, or eliminate, brush marks! Once I had all of my paint thinner and Penetrol added in order to achieve an acceptable viscosity test, I was alarmed at how much I had diluted the paint! I had definitely diluted it beyond what the manufacturer had recommended (as stated on the can). Thankfully, I was worried enough that I decided to practice on some cardboard, rather than on the dining room walls, first, as I had planned on doing after reading all of the positive reviews here, thinking I could just spray the walls and get great results! And, although it didn't take long before I was able to get a nice, smooth coating on the cardboard, I am really thankful I did! I would have been scraping and sanding walls, for sure! I also stood the cardboard up vertically, like the surface I would be spraying (vertical surfaces are much harder to spray without getting drips and runs), so I could get a feel for how much paint I could apply before getting runs. It wasn't very much! I had to keep the gun moving relatively quickly. But, by then, I had to send my husband back to Sherwin-Williams for another can of paint, just to be sure I would have enough paint! Before getting to the viscosity tests, though, I had basically turned my dining room into a giant spray booth, but without an explosion-proof fan mounted in the window! I covered the windows, ceiling, and upper walls with plastic, masking off all of the edges. I also taped plastic over the two doorways, masking around all of the edges of EVERYTHING. I used thick plastic drop cloths on the floor, but I goofed by not taping them down as securely as I should have. So, I had to stop and do some clean-up and remedial taping when I saw that the air coming out of the nozzle was blowing up the edges of the plastic! Naturally, I used a respirator, and was covered head-to-toe in disposable painting attire. The air was thick with paint mist when I did paint. But, I expected that in the enclosed space. I put on a total of four coats, as I thought with all of the diluting, they would be thin coats. They were, but I wouldn't say that was a bad thing! I don't own a mill gauge (something I just recently learned about!), so I couldn't tell you how thick each coat was, but they were thick enough to cover bare wood without being transparent enough to see the wood grain show through, but not so thick that it would cause runs or drips. I always sprayed a small piece of cardboard, leaving it in the dining room, but near the opening, so I could easily check when the paint was dry enough to recoat, without touching the trim or walls themselves. It dried much quicker than I had anticipated, given all of the dilution. I did get a couple of runs, but I just sanded them off when the paint had dried enough to produce a powder when sanded, and not rub or rip. Of course, I sprayed these areas again. Even with the massive amount of prep work required (most of it would have still been required if I was brushing-on the paint, such as all of the caulking), the amount of time It took to spray, clean-up, dry, spray, clean-up, etc., was only a fraction of that time that would have been required for me to brush on all of the coats! The results were, as I said, spectacular. Today, the wainscoting and trim still look as fantastic as they did the day II had finished painting them. I was worried the dilution of the paint would have affected the wear or appearance of the surfaces, but it did not. So, I would never be afraid to dilute paint more than stated by the manufacturer on the can. Not being a paint professional, I do not know how they arrive at those figures, but for myself, I would always dilute the product according to what is recommended in the sprayer manual (using viscosity cup and timing the flow), and not what is stated on the can. But, I always read the can of the product I am using, because it tells me what to use in order to thin the product (the diluent). For oil-based PRIMERS, I use only the recommended diluent or solvent, and I omit the additive (Penetrol). To date, I have not used water-based PRIMERS, but I would probably only use distilled water for the diluent (unless the can stated to use another type of diluent, that isn't water). A shellac-based PRIMER would probably call for denatured alcohol as the diluent. Again, always defer to the can/manufacturer for the diluent to use, but defer to the sprayer manual for the proper dilution rate (using the viscosity cup). For water-based paints, I use a mixture of one part distilled water and one part Floetrol (50-50) to dilute the paint. I also use a medium filter for all paints and primers, and it is the last thing I do before I spray paint. Disposable filters are cheap, so I use a fresh, new filter when I fill or refill my sprayer cup. If I fill the cup three times during a project, I've used three filters. I always gather some cardboard to use to warm-up on, and, most importantly, to help me fine-tune the settings on the sprayer, so that I achieve the best finish possible. If your paint is properly diluted, and your spray is properly adjusted, I just don't think you will be ever be unhappy with the results. Thoroughly cleaning up your equipment as soon as you are finished painting is also extremely important. If you have a tiny, dried, speck of paint in the nozzle, you will not get good results. I have found those really thick pipe cleaners (oh, excuse me, I mean CHENILLE STEMS) are invaluable as an aid to cleaning out the inside of the slanted plastic tube that is inserted into the paint cup. Some other tips I've learned include spray painting early in the morning, when there is less likely to be a breeze, if I am painting something outside. Avoid spraying in direct sunlight, too. Finally, if there is a result that is not to your liking, Google it to find a solution to the problem. I have learned so much from doing this, and watching Youtube videos, too. If all else fails, call the manufacturer because there is always a small chance you could have a defective part that needs to be replaced. Dilute and practice with your cheap practice paint. If you can achieve a great finish on your cardboard (make sure the cardboard has a smooth surface to begin with, too!) using your cheap paint, you will surely be able to get an amazing finish with your higher quality paints and finishes.

The wife and I bought a 2,000 square feet "fixer-upper" and had all new eaves and cedar siding installed. After getting the quote for staining the siding and eaves ($10k) I decided to save some money and stain the siding myself. How hard can it be, right? After scrubbing the siding with a little wood brightener (a must-do for cedar siding), and taping off the windows and trim, I started applying stain with a brush. Ten hours later, I had completed about 15% of my siding. Wow, only 85% more to go. Looks like I'm not going anywhere on vacation this summer. In addition to the time, my arms and shoulders were fatigued and I certainly didn't relish the thought of doing the same thing the next day. I immediately went inside, started researching sprayers, and settled on this unit. The unit is very easy to set up. It takes less than a minute and requires no tools. I can't speak to how the unit works with latex paint, but it works like a dream with stain. You have to spend a little more time taping and masking EVERYTHING that will be near the sprayer. The overspray is pretty well constrained by the unit but you will definitely get a little spray that misses your target area. Taping and masking is a must! Don't expect to just put a 2" piece of painters tape on the edge of the trim closest to the siding. You will have to cover the entire window AND seal the edges with tape. If you have any prize-winning azaleas in front of your house, cover those too. That being said, once your done taping/masking, the actual spraying takes about 1/5 to 1/10 of the time that a brush takes. And it is sooooo much more fun than using a brush. AND SOOOOO much less fatiguing than using a brush. There's no pushing stain into corners or going over the same spot 3 times with a brush. The sprayer just lays down the stain. You WILL have to back brush a little. This means that you will spray on the stain to saturation and smooth the stain into wood with brush. It fixes the inevitable drips, puddling, sags, etc. It sound like you're doing twice the work but trust me, you're not. SMOOTHING out stain with a brush takes about 1/10 of the effort and time as APPLYING stain with a brush. The paint/stain container used on the sprayer seems small when you look at it and it does empty out fairly quickly. The reason it empties out quickly is because you coat so much of your project so fast that OF COURSE its going to empty out quickly. The reason a gallon of paint/stain seems to last longer when you're using a brush is because you aren't moving fast enough to use much. My only (very minor) complaint is that the hose did pop out a few times. No big deal, it pops right back in and doesn't hurt anything in the process. In my opinion, clean up takes the same time as using a brush. Unless you're using disposable brushes and just throwing them away at the end of the day, you have to clean your brush just like you have to clean this sprayer. For the oil-based stain I was using, I simply saturated a paper towel in mineral spirits and wiped down the machine. After that I emptied the remaining stain from the sprayer's container back into the can and filled the container about 1/3 full with mineral spirits. After vigorously swishing the container, I turned on the sprayer until the spray ran clear. Finally, I took apart the spray head (by hand, no tools necessary, takes about 10 seconds) and put them in some more mineral spirits. After wiping down the parts, I put humpty-dumpty back together and shoved him in his box. One last thing (and remember, I can only speak to using stain with this sprayer), no thinning was required. I just poured the stain directly into the container, attached it to the unit, and away I went. I HIGHLY recommend this machine!

I tried a cheaper 70$ sprayer/fan combo (forget the brand) and it works ok. But at high velocity or takes a while and doesn't pray a ton of paint. It also clogs up sometimes. This one is insane. You can spray a whole door in seconds and the spray zone is much larger. Adjustments for spray volume and fan speed is awesome. Only thing that sucks is the attached hose that is a bit of a pain and can get in the way. Love it

A pleasant experience with seller. I do recommend the seller and the product. Thanks

Llegó a tiempo y en buen estado. Es un excelente producto, es muy fácil de usar y sobre todo de limpiar, no hace tanto ruido Lo recomiendo ampliamente deja un acabado muy fino una vez que ajustas el chorro. Me tarde más en preparar el cuarto que en pintar con está herramienta

funciona bien, un poco difícil de utilizar, por las custiones de la velocidad del aire, supongo es aprendizaje, Una pieza venía suelta y se fue al interior de la maquina, por lo demás funciona muy bien

Très belle job, meme si la peinture est pas diluer la machine est capable de peintre a son meilleur avec la bon vitesse. Très content de mon achat, tres bon qualité prix. 🤩