Red Dot Mount for M1 Garand or M1A Gen 3

Build quality was decent. Watched a video online on how to install. The trick is to use a leveler. Highly recommend you get a cheek riser.

Well made! Nothing to dislike about this product! Its physical configuration offers many red dot/possible scope options.

Had a Machine fit very nice product

Ok, so I recently purchased my M1A a few days ago and had a Vortex Venom laying around that I wasn't using for any other firearm. I figured, lets put this on there and see how she does. Well, I purchased this mount as most other manufacturer's where out of stock (i.e. Hopco). I thought the instructions were straight forward the first time I installed the mount and red dot. However, after I was finished (which sucked bc I applied thread locker) and went to sight in... I couldn't get my red dot to go much lower on elevation to meet zero. My dad taught me if that is the case... make sure your sight is installed correctly. So I went through all the steps and ended at the same place (this also sucked because I had to clear the threads on the screws and remove the thread locker compound). I then noticed that as I tighten the countersunk screws... the entire mount would tilt upwards. So I had the "ah ha" moment.My sequence was this.1. Level your rifle (if that's what you are using this mount for) FIRST. What I mean by this is make sure the muzzle and buttstock are level on your rest. I have a Birchwood Alpha Shooting Rest that allows me to elevate the front and rear to get level. You may need something else but this did the job for me.2. Once level... you know that once you add the mount... and your off level... you need to adjust the 3 screws to make sure the mount is back at level with the rifle.2A. What I did was make sure as I tightened the two countersunk screws on each side... I held thefront of the mount down.3. It says to torque the 3 leveling screws to 5 pounds. However, I found it to be more at 10 pounds with my wheeler torque wrench to have an adequate hold. You tighten the closest to the buttstock first then the other two. As you tighten... you will see your level bubble adjust.As soon as I did this and went to sight in... I was so off from the original setup. I went back and started the whole sight in process and finally was able to get some elevation (remind you I ran out in the beginning) and was finally able to zero in properly. I don't know if you'll have the same issue as I did but if you do... it's worth trying these steps out. Most people just mess with it at until they can get zeroed in. However, as much as ammo cost nowadays... might as well save you a few dollars if you have this issue.Otherwise, the mount is solid but I do wish it matched the finish on the M1A better. The mount is a gloss black versus the dull black on the M1A. But honestly... that's just me being picky. So I only knocked off 1 star because of the entire sequence I needed to figure out on my own.

very solid piece of equipment - wont break or loosen up - using it on my M1 Garand in 3006 - i have faith it will last -after sighting in - if you are using a M1 Garand in 3006 take them time to loc tite all tightening screws

The base that the Picatinny rail screws into is too wide to fit between the windage and elevation ears on the Garand receiver. The base would not fit. The picture shows that that as is as far as it will fit between the ears on the receiver. if I took a hammer to it perhaps I could squeeze it down there but that would be really stupid. I had to select the star rating but I don't think it should get any stars at all.