---
product_id: 19173587
title: "Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt"
brand: "inkbird"
price: "KD 10.00"
currency: KWD
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Inkbird"
url: https://www.desertcart.com.kw/products/19173587-inkbird-temp-control-thermostat-itc1000-dual-stage-digital-temperature-switch
store_origin: KW
region: Kuwait
---

# Precise digital ℃/℉ display Sensor failure & high-temp alarm Dual-stage heating & cooling control Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt

**Brand:** inkbird
**Price:** KD 10.00
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🌡️ Take control of your environment like a pro—because precision never goes out of style.

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt by inkbird
- **How much does it cost?** KD 10.00 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.com.kw](https://www.desertcart.com.kw/products/19173587-inkbird-temp-control-thermostat-itc1000-dual-stage-digital-temperature-switch)

## Best For

- inkbird enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted inkbird brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Fail-Safe Alerts:** Built-in alarms instantly notify you of sensor malfunctions or dangerous temperature spikes—peace of mind guaranteed.
- • **Versatile Powerhouse:** Perfect for 3D printers, fermentation chambers, fridges, hatcheries, and more—your all-in-one temperature solution.
- • **Crystal Clear Readout:** Easily toggle between Celsius and Fahrenheit on a sharp digital display designed for quick, accurate monitoring.
- • **Plug & Play Simplicity:** User-friendly wiring and setup mean you’re controlling your environment in no time, no electrician required.
- • **Ultimate Climate Command:** Dual-stage relay lets you seamlessly switch between heating and cooling modes for perfect temperature mastery.

## Overview

The Inkbird ITC1000 is a highly accurate, dual-stage digital temperature controller with an easy-to-read ℃/℉ display, capable of managing both heating and cooling outputs. Featuring a reliable alarm system for sensor failure and high temperature, it offers flexible wiring options and user-friendly operation, making it ideal for applications ranging from 3D printing to fermentation and refrigeration. Operating at 110 volts, this compact device delivers professional-grade temperature control at an unbeatable value.

## Description

Buy Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt: Temperature Controllers - desertcart.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

Review: for the price, I can't praise it enough! - I usually write reviews for things I feel I should share information about. this is one of them. Electronic equipment like this should cost AT LEAST 5x more. I've purchased similar electronics for my research work that do far simpler tasks, yet cost hundreds of dollars. this little guy is just as good in quality and costs far less. Background: i use this to control a mini fridge to effectively create a fermentation chamber for my homebrew wort/beer. You can use it for nearly anything that needs temperature control. Ive even heard of people creating heating chambers using a lightbulb that turns on and off. that is the beauty of this switch, is the flexibility and simplicity of use. I call it a switch because essentially that's all it does. It reads a temperature and switches the circuit on and off depending on your set parameters. I read a lot on forums about wiring diagrams etc. because i was afraid i would wire it wrong. actually it's REALLY easy to wire, you only need the wiring diagram that came with it. Most people who use the STC-1000 on forums have it wired in a FAR more complicated manner than necessary, which, IMO is excessively complicated. If you want to use this as a temperature controller for a fridge like I did, you only need a couple of extra things: extra medium duty extension cord (3 prong), elecrical tape or shrink tube, and/or wire nuts and/or crimp connectors. The extension cord is TECHNICALLY optional because you could cut the fridge cord and wire it inline but you really should leave that cord intact and use a separate one incase you need to rewire later. You don't want to mess with the appliance wire anyway, and you get extra wire that helps you to hook the STC-1000 up properly. trust me, just spend the extra few bucks a get an extension cord from home depot. Also, Ideally you should use a soldering iron to get a good connection, but wire nuts or crimps work just as well. I prefer soldering my connections but your preference is fine. Just don't try to twist and electrical tape it your you're just asking for a fire. Next, to wire it up, you only need to be concerned with two color wires, the black (hot) and white (neutral). If you cut the spare cord, to minimize the soldering or crimp/wire nut work, be sure to not cut the green (ground) wire. Its ok if you do, but you then need to connect the two lose ends again later anyway, wasting crimps/wire nuts. When you cut the black and white wires, be sure to cut an extra 5-6 inches or so of wire out as leads for the next steps. No one mentions this, but what I did is actually put 2 wires into each numbered port, therefore minimizing the number of connections. If you do it right, the only crimped connection you'll need is 1 neutral (white) wire. If you cut the green (ground) wire, you'll need 3 connections.... Here's how I did it: first, put the incoming (outlet/male) side black wire into port 1, then take one loose black wire end and also put that into port 1. Tighten the screw for port 1. Run the other end of the loose black wire that's in port 1 and put it into port 7 (cooling port). Tighten port 7. Take the appliance (female) plug side black wire and put that into port 8 (the other cooling port) and tighten port 8. place the white wire from the outlet/male side into port 2. Take one end of the loose white wire that you cut out of the extension and also put that into port 2. Tighten port 2. Now solder/wire nut/crimp the loose end of the white wire to the female/appliance port side. That's it! The beauty of this is that it doesn't matter if you reverse ports 1/2 (put black into 2 and white into 1) or use neutral (white wire) in ports 7/8 instead of hot (black wire), which is why it isn't labeled as such. This controller is very flexible and allows many ways of wiring. For me, this way was the simplest which is why I used it. Good luck!
Review: Working great for 3-years now - Nice inexpensive digital thermostat, which was available when I needed it and has served me very well. But I now recommend similar Fahrenheit versions instead, as they are equally functional, and more user friendly (just hit Set then Up/Dn to change temperature). I've gotten three of these now, the first one has been controlling a swamp cooler for over 3-years now, without a single hiccup. Another is installed in my old refrigerator, since ordering a drop-in replacement (mechanical) thermostat from the store was going to cost $80, and that's been working for over 2-years, now. The third has been controlling someone else's swamp cooler for over 2-years now. Programming this thermostat is much more difficult than it should be, and takes a little bit of time to understand, but a quick cheat-sheet is good enough for anyone to figure it out when they need to. Terribly disappointing, though, that you can't just hit the up/down arrows to adjust the temperature, but instead need to go through a convoluted process that needs two-hands. Same goes for converting temperatures to/from Celsius all the time. This thermostat fits nicely into a standard 4-inch square, blue PVC, 2-Gang Quick Connect Outlet Box with a matching "blank cover". I surface-mounted it with just two screws near my swamp cooler controls. I cut out most of one side to fit this thermostat, and drilled a couple holes for wires. It's a bigger job than a mechanical thermostat, as you need to find which wires are hot and neutral for power, tap into and run twice as many wires. But it's well-worth the effort. Mechanical thermostats aren't terribly accurate, have a tendency to get stuck from time to time, and don't let you adjust hysteresis or other settings. This one has been super-reliable, offering very fine-grained control, and extremely accurate temperature control, keeping me much more comfortable, while saving lots of money, and also offering much more peace of mind. My refrigerator was a bit of a rush job, but proved fairly easy to modify to use with this thermostat in under 3 hours time with a bit of wire crimping and plastic work. Power was available nearby from the light switch, and there was enough room on the face-plate that it was only a matter of cutting out some plastic. The temperature probe is long enough to place anywhere desired, and picks up temperature changes quickly. While the 2-3 watts it consumes and heats-up the interior of the refrigerator with is less than ideal, it's a fraction as much as the hot light bulbs inside, and lost in the noise of opening the doors a few minutes every day. The ease of mounting inside the fridge (rather than drilling holes) is well worth the very minor heat output.

## Features

- It does indeed read in deg F
- Can control both heating and cooling output
- Has an alarm to indicate sensor failure or high temperature
- Highly accurate and reliable temperature controller
- Be more user friendly than the STC-1000

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B0152LYY0I |
| Best Sellers Rank | #20,388 in Industrial & Scientific ( See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific ) #25 in Temperature Controllers |
| Brand | Inkbird |
| Brand Name | Inkbird |
| Color | Grey |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 out of 5 stars 1,664 Reviews |
| Display Type | LCD or LED |
| Included Components | Temp Control Thermostat |
| Item Dimensions L x W x H | 3.93"L x 3.77"W x 1.49"H |
| Item Type Name | Temp Control Thermostat |
| Manufacturer | LERWAY Tech. |
| Material | Plastic |
| Material Type | Plastic |
| Product Dimensions | 3.93"L x 3.77"W x 1.49"H |
| UPC | 705701562658 |
| Voltage | 110 Volts |

## Product Details

- **Color:** Grey
- **Brand:** Inkbird
- **Voltage:** 110 Volts
- **Product Dimensions:** 3.93"L x 3.77"W x 1.49"H
- **Material:** Plastic

## Images

![Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71zuU2fMevL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Size** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: does the display show actual temperature, or just the temperature preset?**
A: Not sure why all of the false answers here.  Yes, it shows the actual temperature - and by setting an option in the menu, it will display it in C or F.  Apparently there are a lot of people who don't know how to use the product they've bought.  Read the user manual linked to on the page.

**Q: Does this controller maintain the settings I program into it, even if the power goes off?  Very important to know.**
A: I've been using this controller for some time now on my keezer and fermentation chamber.  Recently experienced a power outage at my house that lasted over 72hours.  The unit does maintain settings both when manually powered down as well as if power is interrupted from the outlet.  But even better than that, when the power came back the unit retained that it was in the "on" setting and turned back on without needing to be manually turned on.  I have built out a few of these units for my needs as well as for friends.  I love them.

**Q: can I set separate high and low temps to run a heat lamp in winter and cooling fan in the summer?**
A: The answer is yes and no.  Technically, you can run a heat and cooling cycle at the same time.  The trigger temperature can be any temperature.  But, the trigger temperatures for cooling and heating can not be more than 20C (36F) apart.All the information is in the included instructions, but the setting of this unit is not very easy to understand.There are two temperatures to set.  The first one is the middle (or set) temperature.  Nothing is actually triggered at this temperature.The second setting is the difference temperature.  this is a +/- plus and minus temperature.So, if you want the heat to turn on at 15C (59F) and the cooling to turn on at 25C (77F), you need to "set" the temperature at 20C and the program the difference temperature at 5C;  20C +/-5C.  The cooling relay is triggered at 25C.  The heat relay is triggered at 15C.  (Nothing is triggered at 20C)Seems strange, but that's how it works.See how easy?If you are using this for only one trigger, keep the difference setting as low as you can (0.3C?), and then the middle or set temperature becomes the trigger temperature for heat or cool.

**Q: Has anyone extended the sensor leads by another 30'? I am thinking about this to control my outdoor wood stove from inside.**
A: I'm not sure the original thermistor will handle the heat of a wood stove, it is rubber coated. But with that said,with the thermistor at the max on my chart 110*C the resistance is down to 713 ohms. 60 feet of # 22 wire is about 1 ohm, # #24 is about 1.5 ohms, So the temperature error introduced by the extra wire is less than 0.02%.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ for the price, I can't praise it enough!
*by A***R on July 29, 2013*

I usually write reviews for things I feel I should share information about. this is one of them. Electronic equipment like this should cost AT LEAST 5x more. I've purchased similar electronics for my research work that do far simpler tasks, yet cost hundreds of dollars. this little guy is just as good in quality and costs far less. Background: i use this to control a mini fridge to effectively create a fermentation chamber for my homebrew wort/beer. You can use it for nearly anything that needs temperature control. Ive even heard of people creating heating chambers using a lightbulb that turns on and off. that is the beauty of this switch, is the flexibility and simplicity of use. I call it a switch because essentially that's all it does. It reads a temperature and switches the circuit on and off depending on your set parameters. I read a lot on forums about wiring diagrams etc. because i was afraid i would wire it wrong. actually it's REALLY easy to wire, you only need the wiring diagram that came with it. Most people who use the STC-1000 on forums have it wired in a FAR more complicated manner than necessary, which, IMO is excessively complicated. If you want to use this as a temperature controller for a fridge like I did, you only need a couple of extra things: extra medium duty extension cord (3 prong), elecrical tape or shrink tube, and/or wire nuts and/or crimp connectors. The extension cord is TECHNICALLY optional because you could cut the fridge cord and wire it inline but you really should leave that cord intact and use a separate one incase you need to rewire later. You don't want to mess with the appliance wire anyway, and you get extra wire that helps you to hook the STC-1000 up properly. trust me, just spend the extra few bucks a get an extension cord from home depot. Also, Ideally you should use a soldering iron to get a good connection, but wire nuts or crimps work just as well. I prefer soldering my connections but your preference is fine. Just don't try to twist and electrical tape it your you're just asking for a fire. Next, to wire it up, you only need to be concerned with two color wires, the black (hot) and white (neutral). If you cut the spare cord, to minimize the soldering or crimp/wire nut work, be sure to not cut the green (ground) wire. Its ok if you do, but you then need to connect the two lose ends again later anyway, wasting crimps/wire nuts. When you cut the black and white wires, be sure to cut an extra 5-6 inches or so of wire out as leads for the next steps. No one mentions this, but what I did is actually put 2 wires into each numbered port, therefore minimizing the number of connections. If you do it right, the only crimped connection you'll need is 1 neutral (white) wire. If you cut the green (ground) wire, you'll need 3 connections.... Here's how I did it: first, put the incoming (outlet/male) side black wire into port 1, then take one loose black wire end and also put that into port 1. Tighten the screw for port 1. Run the other end of the loose black wire that's in port 1 and put it into port 7 (cooling port). Tighten port 7. Take the appliance (female) plug side black wire and put that into port 8 (the other cooling port) and tighten port 8. place the white wire from the outlet/male side into port 2. Take one end of the loose white wire that you cut out of the extension and also put that into port 2. Tighten port 2. Now solder/wire nut/crimp the loose end of the white wire to the female/appliance port side. That's it! The beauty of this is that it doesn't matter if you reverse ports 1/2 (put black into 2 and white into 1) or use neutral (white wire) in ports 7/8 instead of hot (black wire), which is why it isn't labeled as such. This controller is very flexible and allows many ways of wiring. For me, this way was the simplest which is why I used it. Good luck!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Working great for 3-years now
*by R***C on January 1, 2014*

Nice inexpensive digital thermostat, which was available when I needed it and has served me very well. But I now recommend similar Fahrenheit versions instead, as they are equally functional, and more user friendly (just hit Set then Up/Dn to change temperature). I've gotten three of these now, the first one has been controlling a swamp cooler for over 3-years now, without a single hiccup. Another is installed in my old refrigerator, since ordering a drop-in replacement (mechanical) thermostat from the store was going to cost $80, and that's been working for over 2-years, now. The third has been controlling someone else's swamp cooler for over 2-years now. Programming this thermostat is much more difficult than it should be, and takes a little bit of time to understand, but a quick cheat-sheet is good enough for anyone to figure it out when they need to. Terribly disappointing, though, that you can't just hit the up/down arrows to adjust the temperature, but instead need to go through a convoluted process that needs two-hands. Same goes for converting temperatures to/from Celsius all the time. This thermostat fits nicely into a standard 4-inch square, blue PVC, 2-Gang Quick Connect Outlet Box with a matching "blank cover". I surface-mounted it with just two screws near my swamp cooler controls. I cut out most of one side to fit this thermostat, and drilled a couple holes for wires. It's a bigger job than a mechanical thermostat, as you need to find which wires are hot and neutral for power, tap into and run twice as many wires. But it's well-worth the effort. Mechanical thermostats aren't terribly accurate, have a tendency to get stuck from time to time, and don't let you adjust hysteresis or other settings. This one has been super-reliable, offering very fine-grained control, and extremely accurate temperature control, keeping me much more comfortable, while saving lots of money, and also offering much more peace of mind. My refrigerator was a bit of a rush job, but proved fairly easy to modify to use with this thermostat in under 3 hours time with a bit of wire crimping and plastic work. Power was available nearby from the light switch, and there was enough room on the face-plate that it was only a matter of cutting out some plastic. The temperature probe is long enough to place anywhere desired, and picks up temperature changes quickly. While the 2-3 watts it consumes and heats-up the interior of the refrigerator with is less than ideal, it's a fraction as much as the hot light bulbs inside, and lost in the noise of opening the doors a few minutes every day. The ease of mounting inside the fridge (rather than drilling holes) is well worth the very minor heat output.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great little controller
*by G***E on June 30, 2014*

I'm using two of these controllers in series to control a fresh air ventilation system for my wine cellar. Where I live in the San Francisco Bay, it gets cool most nights, so I use one controller (Outside temperature) to turn on a duct fan which brings in outdoor air, but I only enable that fan if the internal cellar temperature is at or above a set temperature. The system is working incredible well. They read out in Centigrade versus Fahrenheit, which is no big deal since most of the rest of the world outside of the US is Centigrade and working well. I always remember that 15 degrees Centigrade is 59 degrees Fahrenheit. Pilots and wine cellar afficinados will find this number handy. I had read a number of reviews prior to purchasing these controllers and it seems that some folks have some issues figuring out the controllers. I didn't have any problems, but I'm also an EE by training. Basically these controllers are very flexible in their application, which makes them seem more complicated than they really are, but they are really simple. First, keep in mind that the units themselves need power, so the power terminals (1&2) supply power to the unit. They have nothing to do with the relay contacts.Terminals 3&4 are for a temperature sensor (a thermistor). You can add wire to the temperature probe since the thermistor itself is a much higher resistance than the wire. I used 20 feel of 16 AWG exterior lighting wire to extend the temperature sensor to the outside of my house and still didn't need to do any calibration. Terminals 5&6 are used to control a heating element. If you are using this device only for a cooling application, these terminals won't be used. Terminals 7&8 control a cooling element. If you are using this only for a heating application, these will be left open. The relay contacts should be used to switch the "hot" wire to the element you are controlling (in US AC, this is the black wire). The unit could be used to control both a heating and cooling element if you are trying to maintain a constant temperature. Keep in mind that there are accuracy tolerances in every device, especially the temperature probes, this one needs to set some "hysteresis" in the system to avoid oscillation between on and off states. This would be most important when using both a heating and cooling element. This is designed into the unit with the "difference" function. One reviewer indicated that he was having a problem wiring to the terminals. I had no problems, but can recommend that you remove the terminal guard with the single screw first. Then prior to inserting a wire into the terminal itself, make sure that you first open the terminal screw. I was able to use both stranded 16 AWG wire and solid 14 AWG wire with no problem. All in all, I'm very happy with these little controllers. Yes, it's true that the translation between Chinese to English isn't always the best in the directions, but we live in an international world and these devices come from China. I thought it was pretty clear after reading through a couple of times. Just keep in mind that the temperatures which the relays activate are a function of the set temperature AND the Difference.

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*Product available on Desertcart Kuwait*
*Store origin: KW*
*Last updated: 2026-02-25*