---
product_id: 27866685
title: "O-NEX H4 9003 LED Load Resistor Kit 50W 8ohm Headlight Bulb Relay Harness Adapter Anti Flicker Error Decoder Warning Canceller"
brand: "o-nex"
price: "KD 8.58"
currency: KWD
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 10
category: "O Nex"
url: https://www.desertcart.com.kw/products/27866685-o-nex-h4-9003-led-load-resistor-kit-50w-8ohm
store_origin: KW
region: Kuwait
---

# 50W power rating 8Ω dual resistor load Plug-n-play harness adapter O-NEX H4 9003 LED Load Resistor Kit 50W 8ohm Headlight Bulb Relay Harness Adapter Anti Flicker Error Decoder Warning Canceller

**Brand:** o-nex
**Price:** KD 8.58
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🚗 Light Up Your Drive, Not Your Dashboard Errors!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** O-NEX H4 9003 LED Load Resistor Kit 50W 8ohm Headlight Bulb Relay Harness Adapter Anti Flicker Error Decoder Warning Canceller by o-nex
- **How much does it cost?** KD 8.58 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.com.kw](https://www.desertcart.com.kw/products/27866685-o-nex-h4-9003-led-load-resistor-kit-50w-8ohm)

## Best For

- o-nex enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted o-nex brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Error Code Eraser:** Bypasses CANBUS errors and dashboard warnings with smart decoding tech.
- • **Effortless Installation:** Plug-n-play relay harness adapter means no complex wiring or professional help needed.
- • **Flicker-Free Illumination:** Eliminates annoying LED flicker and random shut-offs for seamless lighting.
- • **Heavy-Duty Heat Dissipation:** 50W aluminum resistors designed to handle intense heat—mount on metal only!
- • **Universal LED Compatibility:** Works with LED headlights, turn signals, and DRLs for versatile upgrades.

## Overview

The O-NEX H4 9003 LED Load Resistor Kit is a robust 50W 8-ohm dual resistor harness designed to eliminate LED flickering and CANBUS error codes in automotive lighting systems. Compatible with LED headlights, turn signals, and DRLs, it ensures stable, error-free illumination by mimicking halogen bulb load characteristics. Easy to install with a plug-n-play design, it requires mounting on metal surfaces due to high heat output, making it an essential upgrade for millennial professionals seeking reliable, sleek lighting without dashboard distractions.

## Description

Buy O-NEX H4 9003 LED Load Resistor Kit 50W 8ohm Headlight Bulb Relay Harness Adapter Anti Flicker Error Decoder Warning Canceller: Wiring Harnesses - desertcart.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

Review: Fixed my LED Flicker - I bought this product after using a Bluetooth OBD adapter and OBD JScan did not fix my issue. Don’t get me wrong both products are still of good use to me, but with my luck it was not enough of a fix. I hit a deer awhile back and had to partially rebuild the front end of my 08 Grand Cherokee. When replacing the headlights, I opted for the SRT8 style headlights so I’d have projector low beams instead of reflector low beams. Reflectors aren’t bad, but projectors make much better use of the light sources output. The downside is halogens suck in most projectors. Companies can try as hard as they want, those relatively small halogen bulbs can only push out so much energy before their longevity falls off. LEDs work depending on how they’re designed in terms of diode placement. HIDs are ideal, but I didn’t like the idea of doing a harness conversion, at least for the time being. So I opted for the LED route as they made them in the 9006/9005 flavor. I came across what seemed to be a nice combo set by Fahren for $35-40ish. I took my bets on it and I ended up being gladly surprised. Nice modern 6000k color temp, bright as s*** and the ring on them were already turned for the optimal beam pattern, even in the projectors. But I did have a problem and I kinda went into it knowing that the Jeep may reject the LEDs in some way because of it being in the era where vehicles started relying more and more on CANBUS to communicate all it’s different functions in all different directions. The problem was that when the bulbs were powered on, the fans were super loud, kinda like the old XB360/PS3 fans that sounded like a jet about to take off. And when they would get powered off, they would stay illuminated very dimly and flicker until the Jeeps accessory circuit had shut off for so many seconds and then they would fully power off. Mind you, the ‘DRL on ECU’ was disabled so the DRL had no effect on the problem. With the low beams, it wasn’t that bad but I ended up keeping the halogens in the high beams because if I used my brights, they would do that flickering crap and I know darn well someone or a cop is gonna be upset at that when I’m driving and kill my brights but stay and flicker. That brings me to using JScan and buying the adapter. By enabling the High Intensity Discharge Lamp option and Quad Headlamps, that would solve the problem; however, the HID option was already active from factory (despite not having the D1S/9005 SRT8 headlight setup from factory) and upon enabling the Quad Headlamps, only the right low beam would even work and still flicker when powered off. Deactivating both options made both work again and the fans were self regulating their speed instead of running only wide open. So I left the settings as is and then invested in a set of these for the low beams. Plugged them in, turned them on and everything was normal, the light output didn’t drop any and upon powering them off, within two- or three-tenths of a second, they shut off completely. Not instantaneous, but still faster than a halogen can go from full intensity to fade to off. And it stopped them from flickering at all. So last night I ordered a second set for the high beams. Once I receive them Monday, I will install the led high beams again and then I should be rocking and rolling. The only downside is that they do get really hot while in operation. That’s how they’re designed to work, basically acting as a dummy load to closer match the LEDs amperage draw to that of a halogen. Remember, LEDs only emit like 1/3 the amount of heat that a halogen bulb of similar wattage emits. Halogens rely on heat to produce light, requiring more energy; LEDs are diodes that generally only get hot if they’re being driven to their limit, mainly why most led headlights have a fan to compensate for the power they’re cranking out of the chips. In my case that has no effect on me, but for those that have vehicles that tell you what bulb is out or gives a general bulb outage alert, that should fix that problem when converting to led from halogen. But it seems to me like it has some sort of capacitor inside it that drains any residual charge in the circuit, which I believe to be the problem I was having. The bulbs had a built-in error decoder but it must not of had a capacitor to keep that from happening. Overall, it seems to be a well worthy purchase. It’s an affordable price and so far has held up fine and hasn’t melted anything and caused a fire. I bumped my hand against it while I was adjusting my right headlight after I hit another deer last week (I was doing 35 in a 35 this time, instead of 55 in a 55 like last time so damage wasn’t near as bad) and I didn’t even feel the heat for a few seconds. Definitely hot but not scalding. I think the LEDs were rated at 65w supposedly and these have 50w printed on them so maybe that’s why mine ain’t getting so hot, really couldn’t tell ya for sure. Or maybe they just dissipate the heat fast in the moisture dense air us Western Kentuckians have been dealing with a lot lately. But yeah, either way, if everything is telling you this is what you need for your led conversion, most likely this is the option for you. Just make sure you select for the right harness/bulb type.
Review: Goodbye Stator Growl - I installed an aftermarket LED headlight on my 2009 Yamaha Raider; shortly after, the engine appeared to chug on startup. After some research I realized I needed a resistor. This resistor worked perfectly. I've had no flickering, no more stator growl, and no heat issues. The fit in the Raider headlight housing was a bit snug; just make sure to tuck the metal portions against metal within the housing. Installation was so easy.

## Features

- H4 9003 LED Resistor Kit Headlight Bulb anti flickering Heavy Duty Relay Harness.
- 50W 8 ohm Dual Resistor Canbus Anti-Flicker for High and Low Beam
- Solve Error code, flickering, random shut off; might not work with all the cars!
- Works for LED Bulbs Turn Signal Light, Daytime Running Light, Easy Plug-N-Play Setup.
- Warning - Load Resistor will get extremely hot, please mount them onto metal area or hot resistant area to prevent damage to the vehicle. DO NOT mount on plastic.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B01CTIDE76 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #9,117 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #21 in Automotive Replacement Electrical Wiring Harnesses |
| Brand | O-NEX |
| Connector Type | Male and Female |
| Date First Available | March 9, 2016 |
| Department | unisex-adult |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 7 ounces |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 7 x 4 x 0.5 inches |
| Item model number | H4 |
| Manufacturer | O-NEX |
| Material | Aluminum, Brass, Plastic |
| Product Dimensions | 7 x 4 x 0.5 inches |
| Recommended Uses For Product | Headlight or Fog light |
| UPC | 732341334338 |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** O-NEX
- **Connector Type:** Male and Female
- **Item Weight:** 7 Ounces
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 7 x 4 x 0.5 inches
- **Material:** Aluminum, Brass, Plastic

## Images

![O-NEX H4 9003 LED Load Resistor Kit 50W 8ohm Headlight Bulb Relay Harness Adapter Anti Flicker Error Decoder Warning Canceller - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71ODYA7TauL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Size** options.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Fixed my LED Flicker
*by M***T on August 5, 2022*

I bought this product after using a Bluetooth OBD adapter and OBD JScan did not fix my issue. Don’t get me wrong both products are still of good use to me, but with my luck it was not enough of a fix. I hit a deer awhile back and had to partially rebuild the front end of my 08 Grand Cherokee. When replacing the headlights, I opted for the SRT8 style headlights so I’d have projector low beams instead of reflector low beams. Reflectors aren’t bad, but projectors make much better use of the light sources output. The downside is halogens suck in most projectors. Companies can try as hard as they want, those relatively small halogen bulbs can only push out so much energy before their longevity falls off. LEDs work depending on how they’re designed in terms of diode placement. HIDs are ideal, but I didn’t like the idea of doing a harness conversion, at least for the time being. So I opted for the LED route as they made them in the 9006/9005 flavor. I came across what seemed to be a nice combo set by Fahren for $35-40ish. I took my bets on it and I ended up being gladly surprised. Nice modern 6000k color temp, bright as s*** and the ring on them were already turned for the optimal beam pattern, even in the projectors. But I did have a problem and I kinda went into it knowing that the Jeep may reject the LEDs in some way because of it being in the era where vehicles started relying more and more on CANBUS to communicate all it’s different functions in all different directions. The problem was that when the bulbs were powered on, the fans were super loud, kinda like the old XB360/PS3 fans that sounded like a jet about to take off. And when they would get powered off, they would stay illuminated very dimly and flicker until the Jeeps accessory circuit had shut off for so many seconds and then they would fully power off. Mind you, the ‘DRL on ECU’ was disabled so the DRL had no effect on the problem. With the low beams, it wasn’t that bad but I ended up keeping the halogens in the high beams because if I used my brights, they would do that flickering crap and I know darn well someone or a cop is gonna be upset at that when I’m driving and kill my brights but stay and flicker. That brings me to using JScan and buying the adapter. By enabling the High Intensity Discharge Lamp option and Quad Headlamps, that would solve the problem; however, the HID option was already active from factory (despite not having the D1S/9005 SRT8 headlight setup from factory) and upon enabling the Quad Headlamps, only the right low beam would even work and still flicker when powered off. Deactivating both options made both work again and the fans were self regulating their speed instead of running only wide open. So I left the settings as is and then invested in a set of these for the low beams. Plugged them in, turned them on and everything was normal, the light output didn’t drop any and upon powering them off, within two- or three-tenths of a second, they shut off completely. Not instantaneous, but still faster than a halogen can go from full intensity to fade to off. And it stopped them from flickering at all. So last night I ordered a second set for the high beams. Once I receive them Monday, I will install the led high beams again and then I should be rocking and rolling. The only downside is that they do get really hot while in operation. That’s how they’re designed to work, basically acting as a dummy load to closer match the LEDs amperage draw to that of a halogen. Remember, LEDs only emit like 1/3 the amount of heat that a halogen bulb of similar wattage emits. Halogens rely on heat to produce light, requiring more energy; LEDs are diodes that generally only get hot if they’re being driven to their limit, mainly why most led headlights have a fan to compensate for the power they’re cranking out of the chips. In my case that has no effect on me, but for those that have vehicles that tell you what bulb is out or gives a general bulb outage alert, that should fix that problem when converting to led from halogen. But it seems to me like it has some sort of capacitor inside it that drains any residual charge in the circuit, which I believe to be the problem I was having. The bulbs had a built-in error decoder but it must not of had a capacitor to keep that from happening. Overall, it seems to be a well worthy purchase. It’s an affordable price and so far has held up fine and hasn’t melted anything and caused a fire. I bumped my hand against it while I was adjusting my right headlight after I hit another deer last week (I was doing 35 in a 35 this time, instead of 55 in a 55 like last time so damage wasn’t near as bad) and I didn’t even feel the heat for a few seconds. Definitely hot but not scalding. I think the LEDs were rated at 65w supposedly and these have 50w printed on them so maybe that’s why mine ain’t getting so hot, really couldn’t tell ya for sure. Or maybe they just dissipate the heat fast in the moisture dense air us Western Kentuckians have been dealing with a lot lately. But yeah, either way, if everything is telling you this is what you need for your led conversion, most likely this is the option for you. Just make sure you select for the right harness/bulb type.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Goodbye Stator Growl
*by S***N on January 23, 2026*

I installed an aftermarket LED headlight on my 2009 Yamaha Raider; shortly after, the engine appeared to chug on startup. After some research I realized I needed a resistor. This resistor worked perfectly. I've had no flickering, no more stator growl, and no heat issues. The fit in the Raider headlight housing was a bit snug; just make sure to tuck the metal portions against metal within the housing. Installation was so easy.

### ⭐ Disappointed – Did Not Fix Flickering and Poor Quality Control
*by K***N on September 25, 2025*

I bought this LED load resistor kit hoping it would solve my flickering issue. Unfortunately, it didn’t. When the item arrived, it was literally just tossed into a bag—no mounting hardware, no instructions, nothing. The mounting holes are so tiny they don’t even fit a standard cable tie, making installation frustrating. Despite that, I managed to mount the resistors and tested them out. The flickering persisted. Since Amazon offered a free replacement and some reviews mentioned it worked for them, I gave it another shot. I only installed the replacement on one side to compare—but again, no difference between the side with the resistor and the side without. Some positives: it’s easy to install (if you manage to mount it somehow), and the build feels decent. However, functionality is all over the place. High beams worked great, but low beams had issues. Flickering and hyper flashing were not resolved in my case. Also, the resistor gets extremely hot—hot enough that people have reported melting plastic parts. That’s a serious concern. Fitment is another problem: the sockets don’t align well, making installation even more difficult. As for error messages, some people said it worked for them, but I still saw errors on my dash. Overall, this product was a letdown. It may work for some, but it didn’t fix anything for me.

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*Product available on Desertcart Kuwait*
*Store origin: KW*
*Last updated: 2026-02-02*