2 Player led arcade buttons and joysticks DIY kit 2x joysticks + 20x led arcade buttons game controller kit for MAME and Raspberry Pi - Red + Blue Color

I used the kit to build a new control panel for my Arcade1up unit. It came together perfectly. It has all the parts needed to complete the control deck and connect to my Raspberry Pi. All the buttons work flawlessly and the Joysticks are better than the stock ones. Highly recommended.

I have been sleeping on these buttons for years, but I finally put them together. I 3d printed the case and it works perfectly for my retro joystick build!

This is a solid set of buttons and sticks for the money. Easy to install and works immediate in retropi. Took me a few minutes to do configure a cuuple of buttons to ensure it works. Great cables and all the right pieces that you need.Two faults: The buttons have very little give. A very weak spring. They feel a little floppy. They are serviceable. The stick is nice but also a bit weak feeling. You totally get what you pay for in this area and I knew this would probably be the case for such a low cost.The other issue is that for my set, the LEDs are a little sus. One button is only 75% lit and another was initially dim but flickers to full on and back sometimes.Overall, for the money, it is a good starter set.

Had these for a couple years at this point and haven't had any issues.

I was looking to upgrade my Mayflash F300 and my wireless 8Bitdo N30 stock buttons to something better.Stock buttons were "mushy" and not that fun to play with. Stock joysticks felt a bit "loose" and not very clicky or precise.These Hikig buttons/sticks are NOT PERFECT, but they are an insane value for the money you pay.I feel like I'm 90% of the way to playing on an actual arcade machine from Japan. The buttons are very snappy and responsive and have a subtle click to them. They fire with very nice precision. The sticks are nice and stiff and clicky.The sticks are high-quality Sanwa JLF clones with a stiffer spring. These sticks are designed specifically to play 2D fighters and will feel unresponsive on games requiring directional switching like Shmups and Pacman... because the "engage distance", "deadzone", and "throw" are all rather large by design.I decided to make 4 modifications to make them more playable as a general arcade stick:1. Oversized actuator (reduces deadzone, engage distance, and throw)2. Shorter shaft (taken from Mayflash stick)3. Lighter springs (taken from Mayflash stick)4. Bat top (allows you to maintain a natural grip on the stick when its down in your lap)That being said, once I installed these I had a nice long arcade play session with some friends and I was IMMERSED. I stopped thinking about the controller in my lap and just zoned into the game. It felt like I was in a Japanese arcade. After installing the oversized actuators... I ABSOLUTELY LOVE playing with these sticks. They are a dream come true.I cannot recommend these enough FOR THE PRICE. Sure, I could have spent $100 for OEM parts. But these stick DO NOT feel cheap. You will get your money's worth and then some.INSTALLATION: If you want to install the buttons on a Mayflash, you have to separate the wires from the 3-pin connectors and insert the signal and ground wires only into the Molex connector on the USB board inside the Mayflash (you don't plug the LED wire into anything). Use a safety pin to pry the wires loose from the Molex connectors in both the Mayflash and the 3 pin connected to the Hikig button. To install the joystick, simply connect the 5-pin connector to the 5-pin socket on the USB board next to the four 2-pin slots that the stock joystick is plugged into.It's laborious and not recommended, but these parts will work!

This arcade kit is perfect for DIY gaming projects. The LED buttons are vibrant, and the joysticks are responsive and sturdy. It was easy to assemble and works seamlessly with MAME and Raspberry Pi setups. Great for reliving classic gaming moments!

So far so good.I grabbed some spare plywood and used it to install just the first player controls. I then plugged in the USB cord into my RetroPie machine, and ran the control configuration program.I was getting upset that the controls in RetroPie worked fine, but the buttons were not mapped correctly in the games I was testing. I did some googling and found the correct button configuration for RetroPie and the various games. I will add a picture of the button layout I used, but I think I mapped the buttons as this:Y X L LT (left trigger)B A R RT (right trigger)I used eight of the buttons for in-game functions, but I think I will remove the trigger button maps, and instead use those for some RetroPie controls like the save & load state, etc.Someone asked if the buttons click but mine do not, this may mean that the buttons are not true micro-switches but I am not sure. The joystick does click in all eight positions though.I cannot seem to open the buttons in order to add a label to them, that would be a nice feature.

I used a 1 1/8 Forstner bit for the standard button holes, connected both the switch and LED wires, plugged in the USB, and BAM...arcade box. It's really that simple.The LED wires were switched on one of my sets, but they mention that may happen in the description. Just swapping the leads fixed it.I haven't tried putting under-cap labels on yet, but I will be soon and don't expect it to look bad.If I have an issue, it's that I would like the leads to be a little longer, but at this price point, I really can't complain. It had more to do with how I had my layout designed than anything else.I should also mention that I used smaller, non-arcade style LED buttons I picked up at Adafruit on three of the ports for things like emulator reset and the retroarch menu toggle and they worked perfectly. Just remember that if you want to light other buttons, the LED voltage for them may not be the 5v the buttons in this pack use, so you'll have to wire the lights separately.