TS3000 420W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum, Smart Dimmable, Daisy Chain Commercial Growing Lamp for Indoor Plants, 4x4 5x5ft Coverage Greenhouse Grow Tent

This light puts out a lot of power, and the plants grow like they are on steroids when under its care!!! It’s got a function to adjust the dimming of the lights, and is very easy and self explanatory to to use and put together! It generates a lot of heat, so you will have to pay attention to how close you put it to certain things, because I can very easily see that it can potentially cause a fire if in the wrong conditions! It seems to be very well built and should last a long time with proper care!!!

My video review was originally for the TS2000W, but I have since bought 6 of the TS3000 lights. Other than size, area coverage, and wattage used, they are basically the same for operation and installation. I have had most of these lights over a year and they are the best of the ones I have tried. I used a wattage meter to measure the actual wattage used. At full power, the TS3000 uses 436 watts vs. 298 watts used by the TS2000W. The TS3000 is supposed to cover a 5' x 5' area vs. the 4' x 4' area covered by the TS2000W. The outer area for both fixtures provides a lower PAR level, but this is better for plants that don't require full sun. So fruiting plants (peppers and tomatoes), thyme, rosemary, sage, etc. should be placed under the center of the light, and basil, parsley, etc. should be placed at the outer edges of the lighting. I don't grow marijuana and don't use a grow tent, but grow most of our vegetables in our basement in two grow rooms. These lights are used in the room that contains larger plants such as beefsteak tomatoes, bell peppers and other peppers, basil, and a number of herbs such as a couple varieties of thyme, a few varieties of oregano, rosemary, marjoram, and more. We have wallpapered the walls in the large plant room with Mylar to reflect light from the fixtures. My lights are placed about 4' apart on the ceiling, so lighting equally covers space between them. The actual spacing between the fixtures is 14". I generally keep the lights at least 24" -30" above the plants at full power. Much closer than this, the plants react like they are getting too much light. This can vary with the variety, age, and development of your plants. When I initially place plants under these light, I usually turn down the power to allow them to acclimate as you would if you were placing plants outside. Either that, or raise the lights higher above the plants. I have been using these lights for over a year, and I am totally happy with them. In my application, I don't have a problem with heat from the lights, but I don't have them confined in a small area. I also have pedestal fans in both of my grow rooms to circulate air and dissipate any heat that may be caused by the lights. UPDATE 01/22/22: I have now had some of the Mars Hydro TS3000 lights for almost 2 years, and, since the video have replaced all of the LED tube fixtures with these lights. I have also bought a PAR meter to check the lighting my plants get. I did quite a bit of research on the PAR requirements of vegetative and flowering plants (such as tomatoes and peppers), and, from my experience, I do not agree with the requirements stated on many of the web sites. First of all, these lights at full power do produce a very high PAR level at 3 feet or more from the top of the plants. Most of the information on the internet states that flower plants, such as tomatoes and pepper, require 700-800 PAR. I tried this PAR on my pepper plants, and the leaves started turning upside down. I found out that plants absorb light on the upper part of the leaves. When the light is too strong, the leaves turn upside down to reduce the light absorption. I was also finding that tomatoes on my tomato plants were developing a tough brown skin. This is also a defense for too much light. When I raised the lights to provide the plants with 500-600 PAR, the leaves started growing normally and my tomatoes stopped developing a tough brown skin. I also found that greens and many of the herbs do well with a PAR level of 200-400. At this point in time, I have reduced the light hours for my plants from 16 to 14 light hours per day. Although I leave the light fixtures at 100 percent, I have raise them to 4 feet or more over the plants. By doing this, the lighting covers a larger area and I don't hit my head on them when watering. Fruiting plants are kept directly under the lights, and herbs are kept toward the outer areas of the lighting. My pepper plants, including bells, serrano, bananas, and more, and my tomato plants, have been producing so much I have started giving them to a local food pantry. Incidentally, my bell pepper plants are about 2 years old and still producing more than we can use. So far, all of my plants are doing extremely well with these lights and I would recommend them. I hope this review was helpful for you. I will update this review if my opinion changes or if I have more suggestions.

Amazing! Well constructed. Durable design and components. One of the best belt things that I have ordered from the web in quite a few years. Its heavy. It works great! Our spring seed planting is taking off. So much better than the smaller red, blue, white grow lights we have purchased in the past. A definite recommend!!

Buyer be aware RE: TS3000, you’ll have to remove the drivers from the light before you can use dimmer function. Had I known this, I would have gone with the Spider Farmer 4000 which is also like this. I saw a video of the Mars Hydro Ts1000 or 2000 which showed the fixture with adjustable dimming on the ‘top’ face/side of the driver which allows dimming without removing the driver from board once it’s installed. I wouldn’t go more than 4x4’ flower and it’s a good that you can get closer than other lights (e.g. COB). Aside from the clunky dimming, the light is solidly built with no frills. Drivers come detached and only two bolts to secure each driver are provided though the driver shows four points to secure. Still, that doesn’t appear to be a problem as the drivers sit on top of the light and the fixture is meant to be used without sudden forceful movement. No assembly instructions but pretty simple to put together. A little concerned with how the cables connecting the two boards sit on top of the light because the light does get hot. Will adjust review accordingly after a few months of use. Like the other Mars Hydro TS lights, it ships discreetly and well packaged with a piece of plywood in the box on the led side to protect from rough handling during shipping. There are only a handful of lights that can compete with this one. The others draw more watts, produce more light but are also priced accordingly. If you’re looking for a 450-750w equivalent led at the cheapest price, this is probably the best value if you can live with the janky dimming.

At first I was skeptical about LED's for growing Cannabis. My has the technology come a long ways! I bought two of these lights and two of a competitors. Both cost about the same. The competitors LED are 4 Cobb lights. Both lights worked excellent. However, I prefer having all of the little LED bulbs spaced across the light, and I will tell you why. This light runs really cool on the plant side. As you can see in my picture of Mimosa (grown in biological soil, no salts), the light is about 1.5 inches from the tops of the plant. I ran it like this the entire 9 weeks. There was no burning of the colas. Those colas are drying right now, so I haven't been able to sample them. The plants stretched to be 5 feet tall under this light. Each plant (five mimosa clones) had 4 colas like the ones in the picture. They are the biggest colas I have produced to date. I am now in the process of purchasing more of these as the money comes. One additional note, there was one HID light in the room that was red spectrum. It was at 850 watts, just to make sure that any plant material not directly under LED would still get light on it. But these colas were taller than the HID light, so they didn't get HID spectrum. This light is very directional, with good canopy penetration. If plant matter isn't under the LED, it won't get much growth. Manage your canopy accordingly.

Just received and set up my new TS3000. Got it to replace my (so called)1200 watt King LED bluple light. The bluple light was ok for the veg cycle but doesn't have enough power to produce quantity or quality of buds. This new light is many times brighter than my old light. Set it up 3/4 through the flowering stage so I'm not sure if it will make much of a difference in this grow, but I'm looking forward to my next full grow. I'll update my review then. Very happy with the initial quality and ease of setup. UPDATE- Too late for last grow...Installed in my new 5x5 Mars hydro tent (awesome tent) 3 weeks in and the plants are loving the light. further updates coming. Well 5 weeks into flowering and the limitations of the light are obvious. As you can see from my 8th picture showing how the center of the tent gets the most light, Makes for a lot of lost product. More updates later. ,.

Mars seem to just be getting better and better a great light thats on par with light twice the price

This is not my 1st Mars Hydro light, the quantum spectrum is by far a superior product to any "blurple" lights as well as many others. The coverage, focus spread, canopy penetration, and colour temperature of these lights are of a fantastic spectrum and are VERY PRODUCTIVE. All-in-all a great product, simplicity in design = reliability. 1-3 weeks before harvest, this light has exceeded my expectations

My garden absolutely loves this light, the capsicums and chilli have had huge growth. I won't be using burple (blue/red) LED again

This light is amazingly bright Brighter than p4000 Definitely worth the money