New Versión 2024 - Maxiwatt Hotend for Printer 3D - 24V 40W- Compatible with Ender3, mk10, MK7,MK8,cr-10,creality, Anycubic,E3D, Prusa...

I think this product is amazing, but it lacking a silicone sock. Once I made my own silicone sock with gasket maker from auto parts store, this hot end worked so much better.

I had a whole support email thread because I bought two of these to experiment with. The first one worked for a bit, then started to get erratic with temperature. I replaced it with the other one and that one wouldn't hold a temperature for more than a nanosecond. I was disappointed but I stuck with it.As it turns out, the problem was a tiny set screw (I have no idea what size it is but I don't have a hex key that small and I doubt many people do). The set screw holds the tiny thermistor in the housing (the assumption is that if the thermistor dies you should be able to replace it I guess). That's all well and good but the hotend doesn't come with a tool to loosen/ tighten that set screw.I tuned it, and the tuning was flawless. I heated it up and let it ride for a while. The temp only changed +/- 0.3 degrees (at nylon temps). I was impressed. The problem happened as the carriage moved to start printing. I wondered why the temp started to fluctuate and eventually the print failed due to not holding temp. I messed with it for the better part of an evening and almost gave up.I was doing a bed level by hand at operating temperature and I noticed that the temp was perfect until I moved the print head to a new location. It hit me like a ton of bricks that the thermistor was wobbly.I didn't have a tool but I did have an old slotted bit I could grind down. I torqued that little set screw probably WAY past spec and now I can print nearly anything with nearly no temperature change over 14 hours. The company sent me some new thermistors for free but the thermistor is not the issue, the set screw is.----------------------Now come the issues. For some stupid reason the set screw will always work its way out. I tried some 2000 degree F thread locker, torque, and everything short of prayer to keep it in place. No dice. After a period of time, it always works loose and always mid print. It's a design flaw, plain and simple. I have had in my possession 3 of these things and they all share the same failure point.I requested a replacement for a bad unit, got that replacement, started prepping it for installation on the machine. In the process of tightening down the set screw the housing cracked.I do not recommend this hotend at all until the design changes to eliminate the set screw or offer a means of setting it permanently while in use.

These have several serious flaws that make them absolutely NOT worth using yet. I bought 3 in my excitement, but was sorely disappointed. 1st, they leak. They won't necessarily leak on all materials. But high viscosity materials like petg or ABS will goop through AND get all in, around, etc on this heater. This is partially due to issue 2, the bottom plate is NOT made as one piece, it seems to be very weakly crimped or soldered on, and once the slightest pressure is put on the setscrew that holds the thermistor in it breaks the seal loose and pries the bottom off the unit. If they were going to have pressure on it, it should have been either welded, or attached on the TOP side where it would have less shear forces to deal with. They are a little too large to use comfortably in any of the modern side-by-side dual head printers too, you could try shaving them, but removing more material from an already weak product? NOPE!Prices. These are supposed to be an amazing little upgrade, and a premium product, but for the cost their shoddy workmanship, bad design practices, the leaking, the falling apart, the thermistor that doesn't stay in, all of it says No, ESPECIALLY NOT for more than 3x the price of the older solid designs that worked. Im tempted to figure out how to make a wraparound heater that actually works and send the design to the Chinese cloners, because THEY seem to be able to make a product that works.If they make a Version 2 that fixes these issues id LOVE to use it, id buy 5 of em right out the gate and run em on all my printers, but frankly I need my printers to WORK reliably. The old style blocks, once I've got them set and tuned, dont even need me to tram the printer anymore. Ive been printing on my main machine for 3 months and I haven't had to change the nozzle or adjust any settings even though I use multiple material types and switch them quickly between jobs. Your machine SHOULD be reliable like that, and these hot-ends simply are NOT reliable, nor designed to be capable of that kind of reliability.The TLDR version is simply this, BUYER BEWARE, DO NOT BUY, PRODUCT NOT YET READY FOR MARKET USE. Maybe the next version won't suck.

Outstanding. Design is great. Had my first clog after printing daily for almost 2 years. My v6 couldn't hold temps this well and loved to heat creep. Mk8 heads are easier to clean. I still use this with a v6 heatbreak and heatsink on my cr10 and it's been a dream thanks

I really like the how well it heats. I like the concept of it heating from all around the filament rather than from one side (although I'm not sure there is a way for me to analyze this in performance terms). I have had no problems with the wiring or with the thermistor staying in place like some of the other reviewers have reported.However, for me, the threads that the heatbreak and nozzle screw into are a bit loose. If I don't get the nozzle very tight against the heatbreak, I do get some filament ooze. Unfortunately, even when I do get it really tight, eventually the nozzle works itself loose, so I have to re-tighten from time to time. I run it as high as 250c so I haven't tried PTFE tape or anything else on the threads to prevent this.Overall, though, I think it is a great product and I would buy it again.

Vorweg finde ich die Idee eines runden Heizelementes sehr gut und auch durchaus sinnvoll. Schade ist nur das das M6 gewinde im Inneren zu kurz ist und viel zu unsauber geschnitten wurde.Ich nutze einen Drehmoment Schlüssel zum anderen der düse. Und trzd ist das gewinde so groß das die düse das heatbreak raus drückt.Also für ein V6 Hotend scheinbar absolut nicht zu empfehlen. Wenn ich die düse gerade so fest mache das es das heatbreak nicht raus drückt dann sifft es überall raus.Des weiteren sind hier lediglich 30cm Kabel dran und nicht wie beschrieben 100cm.Und den thermistor lose und mit einer derart kleinen imbus madenschraube zu versehen finde ich schon ne Frechheit. Ich denke nicht jeder wird einen Imbusschlüssel kleiner 1mm zu Hause haben.Wirklich schade. Hätte mir eine bessere Qualität gewünscht.Und wahrheitsgemäße Angaben sind doch auch nicht zu viel verlangt.

Seit dem Heizelement (Hotend) habe ich keine Temperaturschwankungen über 0,5°C mehr auch nach dem PID-Tuning. Davor hatte ich auch keine großen Abweichungen (1,2°C) und dachte mir ich möchte einfach mal was neues.Hatte zwar die Hoffnung das man die Kontakte per Stecker erneuern kann aber da hatte ich den Rezessionen nicht geglaubt. Die Kabel sind wirklich eingearbeitet. Finde ich nicht wirklich gut aber 0,7°C finde ich schon sehr Interessant. Die umgesetzte Theorie das Filament von beiden Seiten zu erhitzen geht auf.Ich hoffe der Hersteller hört auf die Rezessionen, nimmt Werkstoffe die die Temperatur aushalten und verbaut ersetzbare Kabel.Überarbeitung:Nach ca. einem Monat und ca 30Stunden Druck ist das Keramik gesprungen warum auch immer. Somit kann die Temperatur nicht mehr gehalten werden. Zum Glück habe ich nicht meine original JGAURORA A5 Hörend.

He intentado 3 veces poder usar este hotend dada las buenas reviews en Control3D, pero todas las veces acabó en devolución por distintos motivos:- Al primero se le partió el encapsulado a la semana de uso.- Al segundo se le salía el termistor aunque estaba bien apretado.- El tercero no estaba bien mecanizado y tenía fugas por todas partes.Finalmente terminé adquiriendo un bloque estándar de toda la vida, con un cartucho de 50W y se acabaron los problemas.Me parece un concepto interesante y es verdad que calentaba bien (mientras funcionó), pero tiene problemas de calidad que deberían ser pulidos en revisiones.

Das Konzept der kompakten Bauweise hat mich direkt angesprochen und auch die umlaufende Heizpatrone machte einen guten Eindruck.Montage etc. lief auch gut, aber direkt beim Festziehen kamen Fragezeichen auf, ob es auch wirklich dicht sein wird. Nach ein paar Stunden Drucken dann leider auch die Enttäuschung, da Filament ausgetreten ist und auch die fehlende Silikonhülle ist ein Manko.Schade, aber vielleicht wird das Produkt ja noch weiterentwickelt.

Das Hotend heizt super schnell auf. Die Verarbeitung ist sehr gut. zwei kleine Nachteile gibt es aber: Mir ist das Hotend etwas zu flach, wenn es 2-3mm dicker wäre wäre die Düse weiter genug drin und das Gewinde vom Heatbreak würde nicht so weit rausschauen. Und mir sind die Kabel zu kurz, die könnten gern 1,5m lang sein, damit man nicht anstückeln muss. Daher nur 4 Sterne.