EternaBond RoofSeal White 4" x50' MicroSealant UV Stable RV Roof Seal Repair Tape | 35 mil Total Thickness - EB-RW040-50R - One-Step Durable, Waterproof and Airtight Sealant

The roof of my enclosed trailer started leaking. The 12 year old factory sealant used under the trim had finally given up. After removing all the trim I found how poorly the trailer was constructed. They used rivets every 8-9 inches or so which left a lot of the aluminum skin buckled up; and would have been difficult, if not impossible, to seal. I added a couple hundred additional rivets to make everything smooth, then cleaned all the areas that were going to receive the Eternabond tape. Application is straight forward and easy. Be warned, you need to plan ahead, have a helper if you need one, you only get one shot at placing the tape. After you get it down give it a good rolling. It also worked great on the top-to-side 90° transition; just place it on one surface, roll it to adhere it, then fold it over and roll some more. Pro's: Ease of use, durability, adhesion, quality. This will forever be my goto solution for trailer roof leak repairs. Con's: None really. There is a learning curve to using it but if you've got two brain cells to clank together to make a spark you'll be able to figure it out.

Works at the transistion points of the roof of a RV well, I wish you could peal the backing off once firmly pressed in place, leaving just the tar substrate. The backing makes it "waterproof" but future leaks around the tape and the issue that the outer coating is slippery. Very little will stick to the outer coating of the tape but does stick very well to the RV surface. Lap sealant will not adhere to the tape covering so if future repairs are required it is a real pain.

Many have used this product to repair tears in their RV rubber roofs, Even on metal. As long as you follow instructions this product is outstanding as far as adhesion and protection for water intrusion. I bought several rolls in 2006 after purchasing a new travel trailer. I bought a quart of acetone to clean the surfaces that I applied the tape. I covered all the perimeter of the travel trailers roof. Generally the rubber is attached via the rain gutter. There are screws every few inches holding the rubber down and the gutter on. Im my mind, these are all potential leak points. As the saying goes, it's not if your RV leaks, but when. I experienced this with a prior RV even after diligent cleaning and caulking of seams. I did all edges and seams on the roof. All roof vents and even used a pieces underneath the crank up antenna. The product has held up outstanding for the 15 years it has been in place. No leaks. Here are some tips/ thoughts about the product and process; Do not over apply the acetone, just wipe the area and let dry. Once you pull the backing off the tape, be careful. The product sticks very very well. Use a J roller to roll the tape down after applying. Once down, you will not get it off easily. My method was to clean the inside of the guttter and the edge of the rubber roof, I applied the product inside the back edge of the gutter, to cover the screws, and then fold over onto the roof. roll it down. I did front and rear seams where metal siding meets rubber roof. I cannot see any of this work from the ground. I cannot think of anything one can do any better to protect roof seams, than using this product. I will do any trailer I may own in the future. It is not inexpensive, but it has done an outstanding job and no seams have loosened, torn, or failed. Very happy with this product.

I bought a used enclosed snowmobile trailer this winter. The roof was covered with snow but looked good from the inside. The first hint of a problem was the first time I washed the trailer. I noticed soap suds and water streaks running down the inside walls. I grabbed my ladder and the problem was evident immediately. The original silicone seam from the manufacturer had developed stress cracks over the course of 10 years. It was a nice wide silicone seal about an 1 1/2 wide and surprisingly thick. The previous owner had tried to reseal some of these areas with clear silicone and in other areas with what appeared to be some sort of epoxy resin. It may have worked for awhile but the end result was a failure. I would have loved to reapply a silicone bead to the seam but there was no way I could match how it came from the factory. I honestly have no idea how they got the bead of silicone to be so uniform and wide. My initial research led me to a product called dicor lap seal. I cleared one side of trailer of silicone with a razor blade initially and a wire brush attached to my drill to clean the rest. I purchased the dicor lap seal specifically because it was self leveling. I was hoping I could apply a wide bead and it would self level enough to approach the width of the original silicone seal. It was apparent after about an hour after the application that it was no where near the width or thickness of the original seal. The lap seal worked well and it was free from leaks on that side of the trailer but I could tell it wasn't going to last that way for long. I needed something wide to bridge the gap between the upright walls of trailer and the roofline. I did some more research and that's when I found this product. I had enough faith in the product after reading some other reviews here and other sites that I removed all the new dicor lap seal with the same process as the silicone removal. I also removed all the other silicone from the trailer roof. I was a little nervous working with a new product that I had such high expectations from. I started with the back of trailer first because it was the shortest side. I started to enroll the tape in about two foot sections and would remove the plastic backer along with it. I applied the tape evenly, first to the top of the upright wall, and the remaining onto the trailer roof. I would press lightly at first to make sure the tape was where I wanted it. I could remove the tape and reapply with great effort if I had to at this time, which I did do several times throughout the entire project. Once I was satisfied with the placement I rolled the tape with the Eternabond 2 pound roller that I had purchased too. This process was quite simple and the bond afterward was impressive to say the least. I tried to pull a section of the tape off after rolling it just to see how well it adhered. The closest example I can think of that you maybe able to relate to is trying to remove a piece of embedded gum from carpet. This stuff sticks end of story! When I got to the end of the roof I took a scissors and cut the tape off evenly. I overlapped the tape on the ends rather than butt them for what I considered a better waterproof seal. It has rained quite a few times with a few thunderstorms in the mix and thus far no leaks whatsoever. The next test will be to see how it fairs over the winter months. I will try to do an update next spring to see if any leaks occur. There is one thing I would have done differently. I should have purchased the 4" wide tape. It wasn't that much more money and it would have given me an extra two inches of waterproof sealing power. I was concerned the 4" tape would be too hard to work with but I would have been fine. I will be keeping this product on hand. I liked working with it that much and I can use it on a variety of things.

Purchased 2009 Thomas Blue Bird Bus, was not leak proof when I took ownership. With this tape, it now is! the seams in the roof had multiple leak points where water had slowly worked the panels up, and some black moss in the same. I had tried to apply lap sealant to the trouble spots, but gave up trying to find specific spots, and decided to do all of the seams with this tape. I used 50' by 2" by 4" and by 6" to cover all of the roof seams. The results are, I now no longer have a leaking bus! NorthWest Washington and Oregon had a flood advisory for 5 days this past week. What I would call a *significant* amount of rain came down, and the only water in this bus was a condensation I caused on my own. No streams of water on the floor, no leaking windows, no dribbles from the ceiling, etc (I'm not being metaphorical here) I'm delighted with this purchase. Go slow, use your thumb around tricky surfaces and after about 10 feet, you'll get a natural feel for putting this stuff down. Some mistakes made: I miss understood the plastic backing at first, on the 2" strip and had some issues applying. This is important to pay attention to, because as other's have experienced, this tape does not want to come back up, after going down. Cut the tape holding the spool together, and that tape also holds the backer for the first layer. I'm not entirely thrilled with the aesthetics. If you have a white roof, this stuff is great. Bus has a yellow gradient on the side that stands out, and unfortunately this stuff is not rated for painting, so I will be painting white around it. My fault. If I'd planned ahead, I'd have painted first. Recommend highly.

You no doubt purchase this to do a repair, or preventive work on your RV. Many go into a couple of things that may help the novice is never used this before. First of the adhesive qualities are extreme. It will stick to itself and just about anything super easy. It is with caution I described the fact that removing the material if placed in the wrong place can be a daunting task. Therefore it is important that you do not remove the plastic backing except when you are ready to apply it to the specific area. Taking more than a couple of feet at a time, can allow it to bind up on itself. The wider it is the more this is prone to happening. I found it applying the tape and then smoothing it off at an angle was the best way to work when going straight ahead it was often easier to leave bubbles. But applying the material in a straight line but smoothing it off at angle seemed to keep it well in place. It is important to use a roller if at all possible. Even though I only used the 3 inch size, it still required using the roller which really smoothed out the areas. it is usually a little bit easier to apply this material when it's a little bit cooler outside the hotter the RV is, the more tacky the clue is. It may be more flexible when it's warmer but it also sticks a lot more than may be desired. I applied this at about 75° and it was perfect. Pros: It sticks really well to any moderately clean area. It is advised you clean it very well but it sticks great. it is something almost anybody can apply to repair a leak. It is reasonably priced for what it does. It is a little bit pricey but it does do well and allows you to prevent something from occurring or repairing a leak that you have. Cons: The tape loses one star, because the very first foot that you use bonds to itself already. There is no backing of plastic to keep it from doing this so you lose an entire foot before you can apply it. This is not extra they apply to it. You actually lose one full foot of the time you remove all the material. And it bonds to itself very quickly so you lose that put and you're not able to use it. The fact that it cost me a good and this stuff is already expensive as it is. Means that I have to deduct a star. It is a little bit complicated to use if you do not take your time. So allow yourself lots of time because it is not super easy to use. But it is easy enough for the novice to do if they take their time. Overall this material is 10 times better, then FLEXTape, that you see on TV. That stuff is job compared to this. It may be cheaper but it is ill advised to use it. It would not stop any leak after using entire role. However this material here wobbly would stop a pipe leak it so good how it works. But we used it to apply just seems for preventive maintenance. I did not cover the screws or trimming but I cover the gaps that the rail goes on. It has bad butyl tape and being our RVs so long I wanted to put this on their being I cannot remove the trimming myself. Overall I would say purchase this but keep in mind that there's one for missing and because it was taped to itself. That may have just been an error at the factory but nonetheless I lost a foot worth of material that I actually did need at the very and I came up about 6 inches short and had to make adjustments to make it work.

This stuff worked awesome at resealing my utility trailer roof. I considered using lap sealant, but the speed and convenience of this product was an easy decision. Also I didn’t know how much lap sealant I’d need. In my case, all I had to do was measure the roof dimensions and order up a roll long enough. I recommend using a roller to get the best adhesion possible. I used a fresh razor blade to make clean cuts but scissors will cut it, just not so smooth. It is plastic faced on the adhesive side, which makes it easy to work on sections. Peel as you go and stick it down.

Outstanding product that sticks to anything it touches. I used acetone to clean all surfaces before application and a small roller to press down on the tape. It covered the existing caulk will along with adhering to the sky light and roof.

Toujours pas d infiltration sur le toit du cc depuis 4 mois. Facile à utiliser mais attention pas le droit au deuxième essai

We purchased this in the fall of 2019. Very expensive RV waterproofing repair tape but worth the price. As almost all other users proclaim, the best product for seam seals and repairs. Comes in a roll with a clear plastic film once removed, sticks very well, very tacky to begin with and then becomes permanent and difficult to remove. We are amateurs but are DIY fans. We had to seal a badly repaired RV roof seam and moulding where previous owner screwed more screws and applied some kind of putty that dried, cracked and disintegrated over the years. We needed a quick, economical fix. Even though this tape is EXPENSIVE, in the big picture it is a quick, cheap solution and solved our problem. The product manufacturer and users recommend using a roller which works if you have a perfect flat surface to work with. Our situation was with screw heads and chunky, bumpy leftovers of the putty used previously. So make sure you clean the surfaces well with a solvent, we went with isopropyl alcohol. Then do a dry run with the tape before removing the clear film. You literally have one shot at this. I removed the film while rolling out the tape and my wife pressed it into position and used her bare hands to apply pressure to the tape. This created best results for us because of the uneven surface. Eternabond has been applied for about 7 months now and no leaks. This tape can be used for multiple applications but be careful, it is easy to make a sticky nightmare with, Definitely recommend this very expensive product.

This stuff worked great. Patched an old camper trailer's roof that was in really bad shape. I will never use a liquid sealer again.

I fixed a tarp top on my patio and it's the only one that make the job.

This is the bomb of tapes. Forget silicone less mess last longer and works better.