ABOUT WOSTORE AUTO BUBBLE FLARING TOOL KITWostore ISO/bubble flaring tool kit is specially designed for automotive brake line repairing where an "ISO" or bubble style flare is required.Suitable for most vehicles such as cars, SUVs, light trucks. Heat-treated steel material for durability. Lever-lock flaring bar and detailed instruction make the tool set easy to use both for professional and DIY mechanics.Package Included:Yoke assembly x 1 Flaring bar x 1Gauge/wrench x 1Adapters x 4 (4.75mm, 6mm, 8mm,10mm)Manual x 1Storage case x 1Product Dimensions: 9.3*8.39*2.28 inches Product Weight: 2.69lb Item Package Quantity: 1 Kit.
T**O
Broke immediately
Broke off In my brake line causing a time consuming problem
A**R
Make sure to carefully read all the description
When I read the description of this tool it stated that is was for Metric /standard size. I turns out to be for Metric onlyThe tool kit looks great, Just sorry i I will not be able to use it.
P**Y
Bien
Semble bien pas encore utiliser
E**N
Made enough bubble flares to replace all my brake lines on my civic
My year civic decided to use all bubble fittings. I only had a double flaring tool so I decided to get one that would work enough for fixing a few brake lines. All my lines were done using 3/16 steel lines.Pros:Successfully made 16 bubble flares with no leaks on steel brake linesDidn't break horribly enough to not continue usingCons:The tool that grabs the line slips on the pipe unless you crank the wing nuts down all the way.The wingnuts aren't threaded correctly and I eventually stripped the threads on one of the wingnuts (I replaced the wingnuts with M12 nuts and the tool worked even better this way)The tool digs into your hand painfully as you're cranking it down. I had to wrap the tool in a rag to keep it from hurting too muchTips:Spray any type of lubricant on the die that goes into the line that makes the bubble. It will release easier and crank down with less effort. (wd40/pb-blaster/oil/brake fluid?.. you get the idea)Be careful pulling the die off the newly made bubble flare, you can bend the tip if you're too aggressive and not pulling straight outMake sure the tool is clamped down all the way otherwise it will slip and you will end up with a failed joint.Replace the wingnuts with M12 nuts and use a small ratchet to crank down the tool, your hands will thank you for that.If I used copper nickel tubing, it might have been easier in hindsight. Still if I made 16 bubble flares on 3/16 steel lines, I'm sure you can make them on copper nickel even easier. I already had a roll of steel line otherwise I would have bought the copper nickel stuffAt this price point, great for someone at home to repair a line once in a while.. I would invest in something more ergonomic if I was doing this professionally.
W**!
Heads up for virgin flarers
First time flarer here. You can't beat the inexpensiveness of this tool. However, we used 3/16" lines and this tool, in SAE, won't be sufficient to clamp the lines. European car, US tubes. Inner diameter works.I had to use a flaring vice grip from a different kit (the part that holds the brake line). I oiled the heads of the bubble flare tool and made many attempts as per attached photo before starting on the actual brake lines. Biggest criticism to this is that there is NO way to know how high to place the line to get the bubble flare done right. Too high, and you get a double bubble flare. Too low and it isn't a bubble.The instructions suggest (via an illustration) that the line is flushed with the top of the vice grip. That's clearly not correct.My flare where never clean. I had to use other tools to clean the edges off. You need height for the flaring.If you were to buy this kit, make sure to have a scive or someway to clean the inside and outside of the pipe before flaring. Even when using a pipe cutter, the inner diameter is smaller from the cut and thus the tool won't fit.For the height, I used trial and error and a caliper for precise measurements. Eyeballing it didn't work as you can tell from my photo.The correct height would also yield half of the flares to be off centered. So the method I found best was to figure out the correct height, go down halfway, flare.Then bring the whole tube up to the correct height and finish the flare. I had the tube vice grip part on a large heavy duty bench vice which helped tremendously.If I didn't perform the two step process, there was a strong chance that the flare would be off centered. The part where the flaring apparatus sits (vice part) does not sit flush on its side with the tube vice grip even though I used a different vice grip from another kit. They are both the same design and dimensions width and thickness so no variables there.Once flared, you need to knock the unit off the tubing as it gets stuck in it each time. A quick tap from the hammer to the apparatus and it comes off.While visually, my flares doesn't seat perfectly in the couplers, with some with a gap the thickness of hair, after installing all the brake lines, there was no leakage at all so am content. If there are faults to my flaring, then I'm gonna have the shop build them out. If you have money to spend, I'd go for a more quality type but seeing that I'm just a home mechanic and just needed this tool for what would likely be used for this one project, it was fine.Watching YT videos with other types of tools and was amazed how simple and clean the flares come out by comparison to this tool. Oh, all my lines had marks from the vice grip. You have to secure it tightly so it left imprints. It's not smooth for sure.If I had to do it all over, I'd rent a quality bubble flaring tool instead.ps: mine didn't come with the blue handheld scive tool unlike other reviewers.
Trustpilot
1 month ago
2 weeks ago