1555PPK3 Converging Pock Kit Multicolor, 5.5 x 5 x 1.5

This kit works well to join two tracks to allow two pocket door frames to be used for converging pocket doors. Instructions are straight forward.They provide a 1/4" lag screw to hold the middle where the tracks connect to the header (or wood) above the tracks. It is a good idea, but is a bit flimsy.No worries, easily fixed by replacing a few of the screws that hold the metal part of the track to the wood just above the track, with a longer screw that goes through that track into the header above the frame. Something like a 3" drywall screw or equivalent should be fine. Maybe 2 of these screws per track and a shim above it makes the track much more solid.WHile I'm thinking of it, you might also consider, adjusting the kit to allow room to screw wood stock where the split trim on each side of the door would go. Maybe mount the metal studs 3/4" farther back from the door opening, allowing space to screw a 3/4" x 5/8" piece of construction wood to the steel stud. And then you can use finish nails (nailer) to attach the finish trim to the wood you just screwed on. No screws visible this way. Overall a good frame kit. Would buy it again.

Used for the intended purpose, it worked well, channel and plate were thick steel, lag screw was appropriately long. I could probably fabled up something similar, but if you are charging for time, this was an efficient solution to lining and supporting up two door tracks.

Purchased this kit for (2) 28" x 80" converging doors. The pocket frames which we purchased (Johnson 1500) series work great and where relatively simple to install. We also purchased the soft close kits for the doors for both open and close which is really nice. EXPENSIVE!!! but nice feature. This converging kit however has one major flaw. This kit is made to work with standard door headers which are made by sandwiching plywood between 2 pieces of lumber. In our case (2) 2x6 with 1/2 inch plywood in between. The center lag bolt which is supposed to give you the majority of your holding strength is positioned right where the plywood is located. This means you are screwing the bolt into the plywood through its edge. As in our case the odds of the screw actually holding are next to 0%. We have heavy doors but they are far far below the recommended weight limit. Now when you close both doors it pulls down in the middle of the opening. This means we will also have to add some sort of extra bracing which makes the money we spent for this kit a complete waste. My opinion, there should be 2 holes located in the CORNERS of the u plate not one in the center. This would give a far better chance of the lag bolt actually screwing into the lumber part of the header not the plywood. Bad thing is you really cant do converging doors without this kit.

Ive bought a few of these now. Unfortunately, if you need just the stops, this package is the best deal, and the other parts get tossed out. Great stops.

I installed 2 single pocket doors and 1 double in my basement. I had never installed any pocket doors before so I was anxious about getting the doors in and getting smooth movement. Also, I used solid core doors so I was afraid of the weight bearing strength of the installation. This connector worked great and with some adjustments on the slider on each door I got an even tight close on the double pocket door. If you can install pocket doors, installing a double is only slightly more difficult

Works as described mostly. Its a little difficult to get the stops placed correctly as they rotate when you tighten them.I would use again

This product is used to connect two pocket door kits together. It was very easy to install once I determined the lenght to cut each of the pocket door tracks. The instructions could have been a bit more clear in this area. Measure twice, cut once is very good agvice. But in the end it worked great.

You could install converging pocket doors without this, but the kit will save a lot of time. To give the center bolt more holding power, install a one inch diameter dowel, staying an inch above the bottom of the header.