VHT Flameproof Coating Very High Heat Clear (Satin Finish)

so far so good. had to cure it to get the coats so that a scrape would not peel it off. cured to the 400 degree temp, 600 degrees is the final cure temp... the 30min cure time, the Misses was not going to allow it. the VHT ACTUALLY SANDED AND BUFFED to a glass gloss finish. when dry its scent less, not so when shooting it. This product is worth the time and money spent utilizing it.

Want to disappear your ugly muffler?Here are 'before' and 'after' images.

It is not the first time I am buying and using this High Temp Paint spray, either Flat Black or Glossy Black.It is relatively expensive and it provides good results on hot surfaces: it depends very much of the kind of the surface and the preparation work being done before the application.In my opinion, it provides longer durability when applied over a cast iron part (ex: exhaust manifold) than o a new exhaust pipe or muffler -- it will start to flake after several months, in particular off the aluminized or factory painted (exhaust) parts.On older exhaust parts, I had better luck after removing the surface rust and cleaning with good brake cleaner.Painted over the exhaust wrap... mixed results. It the wrap is in areas that are some more exposed to whatever flies under the vehicle, the paint and (later) the wrap is not going to last long, as they are not quite abrasion resistant.Otherwise: read and follow the instruction.

I used this product in conjunction with an appropriate primer and clearcoat, all from VHT, to paint my car's brake calipers bright glossy red. I'd suggest a white primer for any bright color. Grey primer works well too, and gives a deeper finish. Black primer should really only be used for a black base color.step 1) Wearing a respirator (if possible), remove brake dust, grease, and rust using a brake caliper cleaning agent of some kind. Also use a wire brush if you can.step 2) Sand your calipers using 320-grit sandpaper. Really rough them up. Then use some more brake cleaner to remove whatever you sanded off.step 3) Mask off your car's corner body panels, the wheel wells, the struts and hoses, and finally, the brake rotors. Take the time to mask the bleed valves on the calipers too.step 4) Apply primer (THIS PRODUCT!!) to the caliper in a very light, speckled coat, then move to the next caliper until you've applied a coat to all 4. Do this 4 times, gradually getting heavier, but avoid letting the paint run (it's okay if it happens in the primer). Try to do this as quickly as possible.step 5) Apply your base color using the same method as in step 4: light coats multiple times. I suggest a sweeping method, rather than just spraying hard. Do NOT allow the base color to run.step 6) Apply a clear coat using the same method as in steps 4 and 5, but be careful not to overdo it. Clear coats can run more easily than base colors. The paint should be looking thick and glossy by this time.step 7) Wait about an hour. Drink a margarita, or call your mom.step 8) Remove your masking. Gaze upon your new calipers. Then, use some brake cleaner to remove any overspray from the brake rotors or undercarriage areas. Do NOT use brake cleaner to clean body panels, as it will probably remove the paint.step 9) put your wheels back on. wait a few more hours. THEN drive your car pretty hard, making sure to go fast, and brake hard. This will heat your brakes up. The paint needs to cure at 200ºF, which means you need to drive and brake repeatedly. Don't go too nuts.Your paint job is complete.

Got the paint, rattle the ratsh-t out of it for over the span of 2 days without a mixing ball.Said to heck with it since I'd like to wrap up my project and only need the paint and primer to function as a sealant of sorts.I used Rustoleum 2000F Primer and cured once at 250F, once at 400F and twice at 450F (my oven doesnt go up to the recommended 600F)The primers finish came out great, I received this can of VHT and after deciding to just "send it" despite the lack of mixing ball, off I went.I made sure to shake up the paint as good as I possibly can to give it (and myself) the best shot. I was expecting dribbly nozzle action. The can worked as normal, the spray pattern and atomization seemed unaffected (keep in mind I shook the hell out of it for at least 3 collective hours).I cured this the exact same as I cured the primer. The finish was pretty good except for a few spots where I may have oversprayed a little bit, only very slight miniscule bubbles on one or two areas. I let it cure again at 450F which seemed to harden up those bubbles a little more so I figured it was fairly well cured.Lots of off-gassing smoking when curing, do not do this indoors. I expect more smoke when the car is started.Other than missing a mixing ball, which the rustoleum primer definitely had, I guess the product speaks for itself.This part is completely hidden in the engine bay, this was just to help the 40 year old iron with heat dissipation and to possibly prevent a surface crack from spreading. The paint was used for it's utility and not aesthetics so I suppose it's not a bad deal.Shipping was awful, but again a fault on my part since I didn't bother to check local stores. Almost a week coast to coast.

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Color is FLAT black- if you rub it with some microfiber it will barely shine.wanted the chrome pieces black on my bike.These were polished chrome . I used the strongest stuff I could think of to degrease.First step , paint thinnerStep 2 - sand with 400 gritStep 3 - rub with 91% isopropylStep 4 - good rub down wit Brake CleanerStep 5 - wear gloves from now on- the grease on your greasy paws will ruin steps 1-4Step 6 - paint per directionsStep 7 - and this one is KEY- bake per directions.I used the grill with some foil over the burners.

Coverage, quality, color, and adhesion is good. Easy to apply.