Oregon 4.0 x 300mm Mulching Brush Cutter Blade, 3 Tooth Shredder Strimmer Blade for Thick, High & Dense Vegetation, Fits All Brushcutters Including Stihl, Echo, Husqvarna, Echo & More (295508-0)

I use this with an Einhell petrol brushcutter, bought to clear the densely overgrown garden at my late parents' house. It utterly destroys any vegetation in its path, not just cutting it down, but reducing it to a fine mulch. It takes a bit of practice, and i find you have to use it a few different ways depending on the growth. Tall grass needs a sweeping motion a bit like a scythe. Brambles, just move over them slowly. Then for anything on the ground like the stumps of brambles or grass clumps, drop the blade down on them. A couple of passes reduces it all to nothing. Hitting rocks or concrete causes it to bounce off and so far no damage to the blade (but usually a chunk of rock is missing). Please make sure you have a guard on the blade and you wear protective gear as debris is sent flying at high speed.

This is an invaluable addition to any decently powerful strimmer/brushcutter. I bought this to clear 500 metres x 1 metre of roadside verge that was being squeezed by brambles, nettles, hogweed (make sure you know your hogweeds before annihilating them willy-nilly!), buddleia and gorse. In my head I'd set aside a week of days to get this done: It took me six hours. Cleanup? What cleanup? There was nothing left. In the eight months since I've used this all over the site and to be honest it's considerably smaller than it used to be, but it's scythed into more rocks than I can count - yes, I know this takes a toll on the strimmer but sometimes, regrettably, you're forced to adopt a 'time is money' attitude. Let me give you an example of how this can pay for itself incredibly quickly and many times over. I had to clear the house of a literal tonne of ivy, wisteria and climbing rose. The resulting pile was roughly the volume of two long wheel base high-sided Ford Transits, so I was looking at a choice between a skip (and a day of lopping and jumping up and down), a fire that could be seen from space, 50 trips to the tip or shredding without cessation until the last twinkle of hope leaves my eyes. Well, I attacked the mountain with the Oregon head and in one pass had reduced it to the size of a c.1974 Fiat 500. After just an hour, four passes and the insertion into the proceedings of a trusty rake, all that remained was the vague impression of a small tree that had had the misfortune of finding itself at the epicentre of a glancing collision between the earth and a small moon. Amazing! If you've got growing stuff that's under an inch thick and needs destroying, get one! CAVEATS AS FOLLOWS.... DON'T USE NEAR WINDOWS, CARS, ELECTRICITY LINES DON'T GET ONE IF YOU HAVE A SMALL URBAN GARDEN, NEIGHBOURS IN EARSHOT AND ONLY WANT TO TRIM THE GRASS - THIS IS FOR CLEARING A PATH THROUGH SECONDARY RAINFOREST MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT'S IN THOSE BUSHES BEFORE YOU FRAG THEM DON'T USE NEAR PEOPLE DON'T, FOR GOD'S SAKE, USE WHILST WEARING A STRING VEST, SHORT SHORTS AND FLIP FLOPS (MINIMUM OF SAFETY SHOES, TOUGH TROUSERS, GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION - THOUGH JUST GET A PROPER CHAINSAW HELMET AND VISOR ) IF WORKING IN AREAS WHERE THERE ARE MANY SMALL TO MEDIUM SIZED STONES, YOU MAY WANT TO CONSIDER THE SORT OF PROTECTION FAVOURED BY CRICKETERS (I HAVE CHILDREN ALREADY, THANKFULLY, SO MY INJURIES CAN'T BE TERMED 'DARWINIAN', BUT YOU GET THE POINT!)

SUBERB MULCHIN BLADE FOR POWERFUL BRUSHCUTTERS WHICH DESTROYS DENSE BRAMBLES AND SCRUB

Using on a Makita DUR365. You can really hear the blade thrashing the air and this is reflected in the battery life, which was surprisingly short. With a circular saw style blade I can cut forever in comparison. However, you need to keep carbide teeth from hitting the ground / rocks, with this blade you can take liberties. This is a really heavy blade (even the thinner option) and it absolutely destroys anything soft. Harder wood that can bend away tends to bounce off a bit though. If you get the motion just right, it does a good job pulverising but I found with tall nettles, brambles etc. it's not very practical to hit them with an up-down motion and I just swept sideways then went back over it on the ground to mash them up a bit. Not a bad option but I'm going to try another style to see if it lasts longer while being roughly as effective.

Game changer! Cut masses of thick undergrowth into mulch meaning far less to clear, well well worth it

Used this clear large patches of mature (I.E. thick stemmed) Brambles. Impossible to do with my good strimmer. It ate through them with ease and on bushy shrubs it was like a knife through butter DEPENDING ON SPECIES AND THICKNESS OF STEM. Anything over 1inch thick I would avoid , test it first if it stops the head turning stop ! I used it with my Tanaka 25cc strimmer and it fit ok without reducing ring supplied. 25cc is under powered in my opinion and better results would be obtained with a 45 cc strimmer. If you are using a 25cc try to keep to a medium throttle. The cutter is heavy and spinning at a very fast rate and if you are thrashing the life out of the strimmer and do hit a particularly thick branch or a stone you will stop the head spinning and ultimately knacker your gear box. All in all very pleased , a bit tiring as it's heavy and you are controlling a piece of metal spinning at a lot of RPM's. Don't go too mad and give a 25 cc machine and yourself some breaks. Check periodically that the cutter is still tightly secured, you really don't want that cutter coming off. Ensure you are wearing protective clothing. Once Brables are down use the cutter to mulch the stems saving you ages in clean up.

Stihl FS90. Had about 30 yards of 2 yard wide by 1 yard high thick brambles. (For yard read metre if you want!) Anyway, previously have used line, single stihl blade and also the tripple stihl blade with sort of success with the metal blades. This blade was a different ball game and saved so much time. Attaching the blade was simplicity itself with no complications on my strimmer. Obviously you have to take care as you do with all metal blades to ensure it is seated properly! With an up/dowm motion to knock the brables to the ground followed by a sweeping motion along the ground, the whole job was done in about an hour and what a great job it did as well with the very thick stemmed brambles. Delighted!

Really pleased with this it cuts heavy old brambles and scrubby blackthorn with ease. I've been starting at head height and then working down through the growth to ground level, very effective. It's a brutal tool that throws material some distance so I would suggest face and eye protection and well padded clothing!

Mycket bra när det är långt gräs fastnar inte som när man kör med klinga.

This thing is awesome against those dang plants. Using it on a 25cc Honda 4-stroke and it works fine; bigger would be better but the reduced weight is worth a small delay in letting it spin up to speed. I can swipe down into a wall of canes and thorns taller than myself and carve a slot without recoil or drama. Thicker canes at ground level are probably better cut with loppers; the Oregon blade will do them but the angled tips don't excel at horizontal cutting. The best part is that they mulch pretty much everything in the way so the risk of 'organic barbed wire' flying around is reduced and it's easy to keep steady footing by creating 'carpet' as you go. I've hit the odd metal stake and such but the curved tips and weight of the blade seem to absorb some of the shock so it doesn't fly out of control; it's had a few dents in the blade but a quick file now and then gets rid of those and freshens up the edges - make sure you rebalance the blade after filing (I have a golf ball on a string that I hang it on to ensure it's level) or I imagine any imbalance would cause terrible vibration. Perhaps not as effective as more '2-dimensional' cutting systems on things like heavy reeds where sawing through them is easier but it's a decent all-rounder.

Produit incroyable, le top pour les ronces.

Eine prima Lösung für meine „Brombeerhecke“. Das Messer passt auf meine Stil Motorsense/Freischneider (FS 300). Habe das 4 mm dicke Messer genommen. Das müsste nach Adam-Riese ein Drittel mehr Gewicht haben, als das 3 mm dicke. Das ist sinnvoll, wenn man dicke Brombeerranken durchschneiden möchte, da so das Messer besser in Schwung bleibt und nicht so sehr ausgebremst wird. Ja: nach einiger Zeit verbiegt sich der Klingenteil am abgeknickten Ende. Das hat aber keinen negativen Einfluss auf das Schnittergebnis. Schärfen musste ich sie auch noch nicht.

Este accesorio de Oregon, me a decepcionado un poco, las cadenas para motosierras y el hilo de corte e utilizado son muy buenos, pero este disco al poco de utilizarlo al golpear en las primeras piedras se le nota que el material no tiene la resistencia esperada, para lugares sin piedras funciona muy bien. Se adapta perfectamente a todos los cabezales es otra ventaja a tener en cuenta