Tub, Tile and Shower Repair Kit (Color Match), 3.7oz Fiberglass Repair Kit, Porcelain Repair Kit for Kitchen and Bathroom, Bathtub Paint for Toilet, Sink, Shower, Bathtub and Tile (HT03) (HT04)

Used to repair a damaged acrylic bathtub. Area of damage was roughly 1.5" high and 3" wide located on the bottom curve of the tub. In reading other reviews, I saw a number of issues with the product being too runny and not hardening. I also read one suggestion to let the product 'set up' before applying. The product is good for 30 minutes after mixing. I followed the mixing instructions, although I mixed for 4 minutes instead of 2. Then I let the product sit for 20 minutes and checked it. It was still a little runny for where I was putting it, so I waited another 5 minutes. Then it was perfect. It was fully hardened after 24 hours and you really have to look to see where it is. One tip, when putting tape around the damaged area, set the tape back one inch, all the way around. After applying the product, use the smoothing tool to thin out the edges towards the taped area. If you don't, you will have thick borders and you will need to sand the edges far more than needed. Overall, easy to use and it worked great.

I've used this twice, first to repair a 1cm chip in a fiberglass composite shower, then to patch some chipped tile in a kitchen floor.It works great, but it's genuinely hard to get a color match. In my I was a little not-dark-enough on the first attempt, and a little too-dark-and-too-grey on the second. Both I consider adequate outcomes, as they look 1000% better than they did before. The tile floor shown has about a dozen chips repaired, the largest about 1cm wide.(Side note: if you want to clean grout, mix hydrogen peroxide with baking soda and dish soap. It actually works!)Between the brown and black dyes you have a lot of versatility in matching a color, but it's not at all reproducible. Every attempt is a roll of the dice, you can't save the result for later, and you've permanently used to some of your raw materials.To its credit, the material looks about the same wet as it does cured.I found the consistency when mixed fairly sticky. This is good, as it adheres well to the substrate, but there are downsides. It's hard to flatten it out without making a mess during application. I had my best results using a toothpick.The material cures to the consistency of a very hard polymer. As others have mentioned, sand paper is barely effective in wearing down the material (without power tools), though it does work. I had good results with a Dremel and a barrel grindstone. Takes a light touch, but it was easy to take the bulk of the material off leaving a flat surface.From there it depends how shiny you want it. For my shower I sanded, then used rubbing and polishing compounds to match the existing shine.The tile was trickier, as it was not glossy, but a sort of ceramic eggshell pebble with some color variations. For that I used the Dremel stone to flatten, then some combination of sandpaper and a scotchbrite pad to arrive at an approximate texture. I'm not sure it would be possible to achieve a perfect texture match, but for small repairs, and for most practical purposes, I'm happy.

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very convenient pack allowing you to eye match the color of your bath or basin. takes a bit of time to get the match really close so take it gently and mix in a small batch. sets rock had and sands easily with fine wet and dry paper with plenty of water to lube . then it polishes up really well.

Not quite easy to color match but totally does what it says it's going to do