Phlizon Upgraded 600W LED Grow Light with SMD LEDs 2x2ft Full Spectrum Plants Light Double Switch Grow Led for Indoor Veg and Flower

*****UPDATE***** less than a year later and 3 bulbs blew. I emailed the weird warranty email with pictures and they got back to me the next day. They sent me a new light and not just a new light but the whole kit including the hygrometer. They said I would have to wait 3-7 days for the replacement but instead two days later I received it! I am beyond grateful and so glad I went with this company!!! This light truly is amazing and the customer service is too!! I just purchased and received my Phlizon 1200W LED grow light July 9th, replacing my King Plus 1000W LED grow light. I grow medical marijuana and found the King LED light was taking longer for my plants to flower compared to a 400W HPS. I just hooked up this light last night, fairly easy setup minus the fact that I needed to get a heavy duty extension cord to plug it in. I know the change from 1000W to 1200W would make a difference. This light is bright! It has more colors than the King Plus. Only time will tell how good this light is but I love the veg/bloom switch and light output so far! I will update periodically. If you do decide to go with this light I would recommend getting a long heavy duty extension cord with a surge protector as well as a large carabiner to hang the light as the carabiner that it hooks to is very small and wouldn’t fit onto the poles in my grow tent. ***UPDATE*** within a month of use, the right temp and humidity with proper air flow in and out and it’s the first grow I’ve gotten purple hues on the leaves and buds... I couldn’t be happier... still could use a longer cord so I didn’t have to have a 6 foot long heavy duty extension cord going into the timer/surge protector... but the results from these lights is awesome...

I live somewhere that has really cold winters, so I needed a solution that allowed me to bring several of my plants indoors for the winter so they could survive. Ive done this over the past few winters using a grow tent and 2 x Philizon 1200W LED lights. They have been little workhorses. They aren't too loud, and they don't run all that hot. The build quality also seems solid and I like the included temp/humidity gauge and hanging apparatus the lights come with. I think with my ventilation I stay between 78-80 degrees most of the time whey they are running. I had a warranty issue that I needed to reach out to Phlizon about. Their support was prompt and got me squared away with repair/replacement. Right now Im growing various Basil plants in the tent using these lights and the plants are growing great. I would recommend these lights to people in a similar situation.

Had this for a couple of seasons now and no problems of any kind.

Light just lets off a tremendous amount of heat in smaller setups beware but a exhaust fan should counter other than that strong light keep high from yours seedlings lol UPDATED : this light is not meant for growing weed it’s only gets up to 400 ppfd barely enough for the veg stage so GO SPEND 100$ ON A QUALITY LIGHT LIKE IM ABOUT TO DO RN

Well, I wanted to keep my tropical plants alive but instead I ended up with a tropical paradise. I wanted to keep my plants alive during the winter months because I moved to a lower light apt. First this is this is BRIGHT! Like almost sunlight. I thought this would give if more of the purple reds like my cheap grow lights but this is almost like sunlight with a pink tinge. Month later update: So after setting these up I had to find a way to keep them eye level or lower because they are bright. I set them up in a attic Daisy chain but not in a way suggested but with a utility extension cord. One I put behind a fishtank and another in a corner for my larger plants. My succulents started responding very well and made my transition from apts without alot of leaf drop off. I just checked my tank and lately have noticed that there is algea growth but all my plants in there are exploding in growth now. I am very happy with my purchase this far. Another thing I like is they are not super purple like some grow lights I have. Its like a light pink when both switches are on. 6mo, Was able to start herbs and use this to get the plants to root better and faster. When it was next to the fish tank, all my plants took off and quickly grew, it became hard to control the growth. If you have any plants about 12in below or less. They will burn! I fried some of my palm fronts that were closest to the light. Since it summer all my plants are outside and now got even more wider collection so we shall see how well next winter is

I've bought several LED system with mixed results. Of them, this has the most promise. Comparing this "1200w" (300w) version to my "1000w" (180w) version, this one blows them out of the water for light intensity. This one claims to replace 800w worth of MH or HPS and I believe it. Construction is similar to my other favorites, but a bit more sturdy. This model has three 1" holes in the clear plastic lens to allow venting of the LEDs, something I haven't seen before but totally makes sense, as my other LEDs do tend to get hot. The added humidity and temperature meter is a great freebie. The tri-mode, veg/bloom/both is also nice that lets you dial in the intensity and color temp. Three cooling fans is also good. I will follow up later once I've used it more, but my first impression is that it is really nice quality with just the right amount of options. Experience tells me this is more than enough light for running a 4ft x 4ft area with high intensity light. It is insanely bright with a nice even color temperature. Update 1: With two LED systems in my disabled friend's tent, the plant is already leaning towards this one, telling me it is delivering more of what the plant wants. Small ruderalis plant for now, but this will obviously do 4 full size plants. Uploading some pics, this LED is the one on the right, you can see the vent holes in one of them.

Seems like a well built unit, but the thermometer that came with it only displays the bottom half of the numbers on both lines unless you squeeze it. Not in the mood to fight the supplier for a new one so I'll just take the hit. Not ideal for a grow tent, the hanger takes a foot of space, at the least. Just bought the 1200, I have 2 600's. I see people complaining about 'brightness', but I believe it's user error/ misperception. First, the only light factor that matters is PAR. It's the wavelengths of light that trigger photosynthesis and their concentration. Imagine standing in a shower with your head directly under the stream and your arms out to the sides. Your head, being the closest to the source, is going to get hit with the most streams of water and they will still be close together. Any that get by will hit further apart the further from the source thus be less concentrated. Your arms, which are outside the stream will only catch ricochets either from the head or walls of the shower. Light, unlike water, doesn't flow with gravity so the lower parts would get nothing all things being equal. Now, plants want the correct frequencies of light AND in the correct concentrations. PAR is the concentration of usable light. So, just like you wouldn't shower with an eyedropper that just hits your belly button, nor with a firehose that beats you into the ground, same goes for plants and lights. Now, unless you train your plants, in order to get the most of it exposed to the best PAR you have to sacrifice the other parts. The tallest, being directly under the beam will get the firehose, what reaches the ideal distance will be diluted as a result and anything shaded by foliage or outside the ideal zone will get the eye dropper. Anything outside the cone has to rely on reflection, it might as well be above the light for what god it'd do. What all this translates to in the real world is that if a light says the ideal distance is x and the coverage area is y, it means in a perfect world as if it were shining on a rug with nothing to block/absorb anything. IOW, everything in 2D instead of 3D. Anything else is a compromise. Not a deal breaker in any way, just the way it is. After all, in Nature no plant sees direct sunight on all sides except at the equator twice a year. Second, the Veg and Bloom switches. How many think you veg on just that and either switch or add bloom when you change over? Nope. Solo Veg is for seedlings and clones, you don't bathe children with a firehose, right? A couple of days after the first transplant both switches should be enabled to get full effect. I don't see flying light filters in Nature that allow this at one time and that at another to get through. The solo bloom should be used in the last stages of flower development, if anything, to simulate weakened light with the defense triggering wavelengths. Let it slow growth and concentrate development. I thought the same for a couple of weeks and just had the veg stage lit. Everything seemed great, I had no stretch for light, the nodes were nice and close with no burn so I figured smooth sailing until I got to thinking about it. I hit both and the plants exploded. I've got plants at about 6 weeks of veg that are almost ready for the third mainline. And I mean true mainline where they got stripped to the nubs. I've got super crops and manifolds at the same age whose stems are nice and thick, ready for the goodness to come. So remember the cone theory and that it's fractal. Every obstruction higher in a cone of light is going to create a cone of shade as light isn't affected by gravity like water is. The closer to the source of light, the greater the cone of shade any obstruction will create.

I bought a total of 3 of these lights for my little grow room. They are excellent.