4K 120Hz HDMI 2.1 Switch 4x1 Audio Extractor VRR ALLM HDCP2.3 ARC HDR10+ CEC Optical SPDIF and 3.5mm AUX Audio Out,HDMI Auto Switch 4 IN 1OUT IR Remote D-olby Digital EDID for PS5 XBOX NVIDIA

[Review updated, extra details in notes at bottom]This extractor is the best option for covering the majority of features you may have now, or down the line.[My setup is a 2K monitor supporting 170hz, a PS5, a gaming PC with an RTX 3060, and a Sony SF150 soundbar.]If you have multiple devices that can't connect to a display and sound system at the same time - and have a load of visual features that you want to use (VRR for example) - buy this audio extractor.If you don't care that much about missing out on some of the visual features and just need to connect a couple devices, you can go for the cheaper options like the £50 one.I've read that people have issues with getting the display or sound to work correctly. There are buttons on the device that change how the audio and visual information is passed through, so click the buttons until everything passes through.This extractor tells the devices it's connected to that it is a 5ch sound system, so if your soundbar has less channels like mine (2 channels or 2.0) your going to run into some initial problems.For games like Genshin Impact, voices in cutscenes are sent to the wrong channel and can barely be heard. You'll need to check the audio options in the game if it can let you change from surround to stereo.Most devices have options to change sound settings to suit your needs. On a PS5, you can change the output type from soundbar to AV Amplifier which lets you choose how many audio channels it supports.PC users are going to have problems with this if they want higher refresh rates. For my setup, I use a Display Port to connect directly to my monitor, and an HDMI to connect to the extractor.This will result in your PC thinking there are 2 displays it's connected to, and as such it will output visuals to both connections. You'll need to go into your display settings and set it to duplicate the displays instead of extend. This will allow audio to still pass through the audio extractor, and reduce the overall load on your GPU.Once any issues are sorted. It works like a dream.Decently sized, a bit weighty (but light enough to stick some strong doubled sized adhesive to under a desk), and would recommend buying HDMI cables that support all features advertised. Very pricey investment.3 more things of note:- if you end up using 2 connectors for your computer, make sure your PC's audio output is set to the audio extractor by default.- The sound may come out flipped. You can resolve this by turning your soundbar off and on again, or messing with the audio output settings.- It won't output the first second of audio it detects. Think of it like when you move a Bluetooth mouse after not touching it for a while.

I used to have a switch box that didn't extract the audio and had a home cinema amp with optical inputs. All of my sources needed their audio fed into the switch too, some devices even needed their own splitter to access the optical audio, and one only had coax digital audio, so in addition I needed a converter to change from coax to optical before I fed the switch. You should be able to appreciate the mess that was my setup.Cue this switch box. All you need to do is connect your equipment to the HDMI inputs. Video and audio is routed through to the TV and the audio is split off via the optical output (should you need to do this) to feed an amp. Audio pass-through works as it should. Make sure you have decent HDMI cables for HDR and Dolby Vision. After I'd set up this switch I had a whole pile of redundant audio converters and the associated mains adapters.There is one issue, often when switching devices there is no sound, necessitating a power off and on of the switch box. I use a Sofabaton smart remote (similar to a Logitech Harmony) so I simply added a power off/on step in the startup sequence for my 'Watch Freesat' activity. Problem solved.

The remote is only for changing HDMI output. I plugged a PlayStation 5 and latest AppleTV to it. But they are on different EDID setting so I have to walk up to it every time I’m switching. Also happens occasionally that it doesn’t work properly unless I unplug and plug it back in.Does it work? Yes.Would I buy it again? No.

This audio splitter works very well, the reason i have only given it 3 stars out of 5 is because there was no plug in remote control sensor included with it, luckily i had one that fitted, but that doesn't help because the other item i have that needs a sensor, now doesn't have one.

Since getting a PS5 which doesn't have direct optical out to my surround sound I had to use optical out from the Samsung TV which had a slight audio delay, along with using a streaming device which also didn't have a direct optical out, I had to accept the audio delay and constantly adjust it depending on the app, Amazon Prime Video being the worst.Since getting this device, HDMI cables now go into this, optical out to my surround sound and HDMI out to TV there's no audio delay anymore.Also tested 120hz on both PS5 and Xbox Series X, both displayed correctly when using decent certified cables, when a so called 4k 120hz cable that wasn't certified was used the screen would flicker, changed cables and no more flickering.So far well worth the money, just with the optical out was on the back as it's a bit unsightly seeing 1 cable out the front of it.