PC-Xtreme Fast Cure Epoxy Filler

This works great at fixing the crack between the concrete and pavement

Used this to fill saw cut control joints on a garage floor. This is a low viscosity product. A little thicker than wood glue in a bottle. It is easy to use with a quality dual caulk gun. Flows well into cracks and self levels. It was about 80 degrees and I waited more than two hours before trimming the excess off with a heavy duty razor edge scraper. If you do it too early it doesn’t trim cleanly. In 48 hours it was fully cured but still has some flexibility. I will be over coating this with a professionally done garage coating.

I like this stuff; it was easy to apply and easy to trim flat with the floor using a razor handle. My only complaint was the mini air bubbles exposed when I shaved the excess off. Not everywhere, just here and there. It may have been how I applied it unsure. I filled 200+ liner feet of 1/4 gap in saw cut concrete.

The good is that when it applied correctly it worked very well. I used multiple containers of this stuff and in 3 out of the 4 times there was a problem with non-curing sections. Followed the mixing directions carefully. The specific recurring issue I had is that when laying down a line of the filler, random spots the filler would not harden. My guess is that there might have been a bubble in the hardener tube or that it was feeding unevenly. You could not tell visually that these sections were not mixing correctly. So after the install is complete and dried I noticed my shoe smearing some areas. Even after multiple days they would stay wet. Contacted the company and they said only option is to scrape out wet areas and re-apply. If you explore youtube you will find many installations of polyurea doing the initial lay down of filler and then using a hand scraper cut off the excess. I tried this on one section and while it worked the cut wasn't very clean so visually the surface was not smooth. It is hard to tell when the optimum time is to try and scrape because the working time if very short and you need it somewhat hardened but not too stiff. I hand much better luck taping the sides of the joint, putting in the filler just barely overfilled and then quickly skimming the top of the joint with a putty knife. This gave a really clean look. If you go this route you need to get the tape off relatively quickly. In my case at 65 degrees anything over 10 minutes made the tape hard to remove and the filler wanted to pull off with the tape. Summary: Once on and cured looks like it will do a good job. Pain to install and doubly painful to have to touch up sections. Also because the double cartridge needs a mixing nozzle even if you have leftover no easy way to use remainder without another nozzle.

Watch a U tube video on this product before using it. It does not dry solid so grinding to level is not advised. Will accept paint though

Waste of money for me. This product was thin, very runny and shiny- not at all what I expected to fill a crack in the brick joint of my back garden wall. It was difficult to pump through the nozzle but ran like water. May be good for hairline horizontal cracks. Not a 1/2” vertical crack on a brick wall due to ground shifting. Also messy. Some of the “caulk” splashed onto the brick fronts and impossible to remove. I was expecting it to look like the mortar in the joints not plastic liquid.

Simply put, this product does exactly what it says it does. I used 21.2 oz containers to level control joints in my basement floor so I could epoxy over them. I read several reviews that stated there were soft and gooey spots. I have to believe they did not follow the directions. This is a two part compound and if improper mixing occurs (for any reason) it will not cure. So READ AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!! All five tubes I used filled 300 feet of control joints at 3/8”-1/2” deep. Product was shaved smooth with the surface of the concrete about 45 minutes after application.

Not as described . Only liquid

Name says Polyurea but very worst than Epoxy.