hykolity20 Pack 4FT LED T8 Ballast Bypass Type B Light Tube, 18W, 2400lm for Single-Ended & Dual-Ended Connection, 5000K, Frosted Lens, T8 T10 T12 Tube Light for G13, 120-277V, UL Listed

You will need to rewire your fluorescent fixture to use these bulbs. However, that is a good thing. I was torn about rewiring vs. getting a type A bulb that can be put into a fixture without rewiring it. I tried the latter, and learned that not every type A bulb will work with every ballast. After buying a type A product I read in the fine print that my ballasts were not supported. Grrr. So I shopped around and these were reasonably priced. I also learned along the way that Type B (this bulb) are typically more efficient because there is no longer any energy lost in the ballast. The bulbs come we rewiring instructions and I found it pretty easy to bypass the ballast... and have been happy ever since. There is no delay when you turn these on, and they do not flicker like some other LED replacements do. I like the fact that you can power them from one end or both. I chose to power from the same end because it made rewiring simpler. The brightness is good, and better than the 20 year old 40W fluorescent bulbs I replaced. Overall, these are well worth the price, and rewiring was well worth the effort.

Bought 4FT LED T8 Ballast Bypass Type B Light Tubes for Single-Ended & Dual-Ended Connections, 5000K to upgrade 4 lamp fixtures some of which had magnetic ballasts over 25 years old. Even replacing with electronic ballasts that drive lamps is just as much work and more expensive. Wire a few as double ended, then found these that allow for both options. Single ended is easier and safer. Always make sure no power, then remove the heavy ballasts cutting the wires so there is enough from tombstones to connect to the power wires that often come out at one end. I recommend using push in wire connectors especially the ones with levers. You can mark the wires from one side of the tombstone to make sure they are grouped properly then twist them together to keep under control in fixture. Quick continuity test not a bad idea since you do not want to wire a short. Check the wiring on the non-powered end and make sure non-shunted again group each side of tombstone. Again the push-in wire connectors are safer and cleaner wiring especially while on a ladder, but wire nuts work too. I like to remove the whole tombstone holder strip and wire everything properly on a table (some snap in with a tab while others have a screw). Less ladder time and can replace any broken tombstones and check the wiring since two of the four tombstones are wired together for the yellow connection. You can crush the tombstone to help get the wire out or twist the wire while tugging to pull it out to reuse good wires. 6 years ago I installed single ended direct wire LED tubes that I got on clearance that are still bright and working. But now LED has become normal and more priceworthy. T-12 tubes are more expensive, dim over time and magnetic ballasts start to fail and leak. It is worth the work to rewire without ballasts. We have a lot more fixtures to upgrade when we have the budget, but are saving on electricity bill. These tubes are bright but wish they were 4000K.

I had bought 4000k a few years ago and really like how bright they are. I looked for the same brand but couldn’t find them. These look just like the other ones except they’re 5000k. These work well but the old bulbs have a warm light like sun light and these are more of a cool white light. To me the 4000k LEDs seem to light up the area brighter. I hope they last as long as my old LED bulbs have.

The previous owner of my house trash picked some office style 4 tube fluorescent fixtures. I have no idea how old they are but slowly the ballasts have been failing and I've just been dealing with the lower light levels. With 8 lights spread across the basement I could afford to lose a couple as all 4 lights typically didn't fail, just 2.Now that I have 2 completely dead fixtures and 2 with only 2 lights working it was time to do something. The ballasts were about $25 each and I needed two per fixture. Then I was going to need 4 tubes which are another $10. To fix only what was broken I needed six ballasts and 12 tubes which adds up to $180. Far cheaper to go LED.The process was simple. Cut all the wires going to the bulb holders on one side, strip them and wire nut them to the neutral (white) wire. Then cut all the wires going to the other side and attach them to the hot (black) wire. Of course you have to remove and reinstall the wire cover and I took the old ballasts completely out but that was it.On mine I had Red, Blue and Yellow wires going to the holders. That's three pairs and 4 holders but the holders are linked together inside where I couldn't see it. Some lights you can see the wires to the holders. The yellow wire came from the opposite ballast which threw me for a second but then I realized that one side would be hot and one side would be neutral and all the wires on each side would connect to the hot and neutral respectively.I did have to use a slightly bigger wire nut and these lights don't come with any wire nuts, so if you're doing this you may want to get an assorted pack of wire nuts if you don't have them. I had plenty so it wasn't a problem. With some lights you may be able to use the wire nuts that are already there.As for the light output, I've done one so far and I have another light with 4 brand new 40 watt bulbs and these are noticeably brighter. It's not blindingly different but it is noticeable. Now compared to some of the older fixtures with the 32w economy bulbs it's night and day different. Given the difference between the 32 and 40 watt bulbs I'd say this is the same jump higher so probably an equivalent of 50w if I had to guess. I'm already planning on splitting the lights 4+4 and adding a second switch because I won't need them all on at once.