BestEquip Electric DC Motor, 2KW 48V Brushless Motor Kit 4300rpm High Speed Electric Scooter Motor for Go Kart Bike Motorcycle with Speed Controller, Throttle, Keylock

Kit arrived as advertised. I was able to reuse a lot of the hardware that came with my e-scooter.Installation was straightforward, although I did have to make slight modifications to the speed controller housing for chassis fitment. Turns out there's a good bit of empty space surrounding the PCB.I reapplied fresh thermal compound to the mosfets upon reassembly (Antec NanoDiamond thermal compound). So far it's been decently cool to the touch, even after hard runs.I then gave it XT60 connections for a Li-ion battery, ran an inline 35A fuse, and omitted the distribution block in favor of all-weather bullet connectors: so far it's held up perfectly even after getting caught in the rain during a ride.The motor has been a real gem; it accelerates smoothly and it's a lot quieter than I was expecting. Has no problem keeping up with city traffic, although I don't like pushing the full speed all the time, but having the option to get out of the way quickly adds a lot of confidence to the ride.Overall would recommend: it's a solid performing motor and the speed controller is well constructed (no cold-solder joints, good wiring, good board-level components, etc.). Perfect complement to any Lithium Ion conversion project.

I put this on my 6 year old's MX650 (he's been riding bikes since he was 2, so hold your judgement). I did this upgrade because his bike was overheating with the stock controller/motor and upgraded 48v 20ah LiFePo battery. I added a 3 speed switch to the controller (like $7). He has used all 3 levels. Level 1 goes to about 19mph, level 2 25mph, and level 3 31mph. Torque changes are minimal between levels. This motor and control have much more torque than the stock motor and control with an upgraded battery, which is great for the grass/hills.My only qualm is that 100% of the torque hits when the throttle first engages (when you slightly turn the throttle), even with the 3 speed switch wired to the controller. This makes it difficult for a young/light riders at low speeds, especially on the pavement. I wish I could tune it somehow, but it seems that I'd need a new controller to do that. Not much of an issue on the grass, except for him leaving bare spots 😁I've considered simply increasing the motor sprocket tooth count, which would reduce torque overall and increase top speed, but he likes/needs that torque for hills etc. and he definitely doesn't need more top speed. I'm not giving up yet, I'll try to update if I find a solutionOverall, it's been a great upgrade, which has fixed the overheating issue. He can ride for hours on end without the bike holding him back. I'd still like smoother torque delivery to reduce the abrupt load on the motor and make low speed manuevers more controlled. However, it's not a deal breaker, especially at less than $150.Side Note: I am an experienced electric bike rider. I have a Talaria Sting R, which has way more power and I wheelie it all the time, but the torque delivery is much better. I had a Surron before my Talaria R too.

UPDATED: I was wiring up a headlight on this controller, and the wiring diagram does not show voltage on the output for the lamps. I grabbed my multimeter and tried checking, but the connectors ARC'ED and burnt my finger tips horribly (the photo is from after I washed the black char off). I have no feeling in 2 of my fingertips now and a nice blue dot in my vision from the arc flash. Turns out the output for the voltage is full, unregulated, 48 volts with high amps from the battery. Extremely dangerous not to tell people this. Not only did my fingers get charred, my brake light blew up and now I need a new one. Buyer bewareI finally finished the mini atv that this was going on. i weigh 150lb, i estimate that the atv weighs about 70 lb or so, and the thing cant even make it up any tiny incline. It does great on flat ground with a top speed of around 25mph. i hijacked the motor signal wire into a potentiometer to limit the max speed and make it kid-friendly with the ability for adults to have fun on it tooIt works well in clockwise rotation. I tried every combination (including the directions included with the motor that made it so the motor did not rotate at all) of the phase wires to get counterclockwise to work right but couldnt get it. I was able to get it to spin in reverese, but not at max speed and the rotation was not smooth. On top of that I could not get the 3 speed switch or reverse switch to function while motor was rotating counterclockwise. I then went on to re-pin the hall effect sensor harness to match my phase wires and that reverted the motor back to clockwise rotation. Long story short, mount the motor so that it is going to be rotating clockwise and save yourself a couple days of messing with wires. 2 cuts with an angle grinder and some welding was way faster than trying to figure out how to make it function in reverse.

good for single person scooter, but a wee bit under powered for a kids 2 seater go kart. gunna install a second one to get the necessary power needed. but still a good little motor. the controller wiring NEEDS better instructions/explanation on what is what and/or what it does.

The title specified the BLDC motor and drive to be rated to 2000W and specified 48V and 42A (48Vdc x 42A = 2016W) so I was a little taken back when opening the box and finding the label on the drive to specify max current of 34A. In spite of that the motor and drive seems to have adequate power for my application, and installation was straightforward. I also took apart the motor to take a peek inside and have posted a picture for people that may be interested. 6 pole motor with surface mount magnets on the rotor. The stator is concentrated coil type with embedded Hall effect sensors for commutation. Both aluminum end bells of the motor enclosure have numerous ventilation holes for inlet/exit of air for cooling. Seems to run fairly cool even after 30 minutes of continuous use.