Promise Epoxy Resin Kit 2 Gallon - Crystal Clear, Self Leveling, Food Safe for Table Top, Arts, Wood Casting, Jewelry Making, Use with Mica Powder, Silicone Molds, & Alcohol Ink

This product worked absolutely PERFECT for my countertop project. I’m beyond thrilled with the results. Everything went on smooth and gave me just enough time to accomplish what I needed to before the product set. Now, if you’ve never worked with Epoxy Resin there are a few VERY important things you need to keep in mind. I’ve worked with a good amount of resin and done a ton of research on this stuff, here’s all my tips and tricks I’ve picked up for doing countertops. Hope they help! 1) Temperature is CRITICAL. Your space MUST be between 75-85 degrees for the first 24 hours or you run the risk of your resin not setting properly. I’ve tested this theory on purpose and it didn’t turn out right. Even if it is miserable working in that temperature, you won’t regret it when your project turns out right. Scraping resin off your project because you decided to not do this, is literally the worst thing. Just picture runny, sticky, glue like bubblegum that you are trying to get off something. And water DOES NOT WORK for cleanup. Just FYI. Rubbing alcohol gets it off your skin pretty good. But not all of it. 2) Mixing the product for the right amount of time AND dumping it and remixing in a second container is very important. Don’t skip this step. It’s annoying and seems unnecessarily, but really you need to just do it. Yes, even if you’re using an electric mixer, which, side note, generates a lot of bubbles! So if you’re going for glass smooth, stick to a paint mixing stick. Constantly scrape the sides and bottom of your bucket to make sure you’re not leaving any unmixed product. Also, it’s best not to use a mixing container that has corners, stick to a bucket or something that is circular and does not have any wax coating on it. 3) Pouring more is better than pouring less, if you don’t pour enough you’re trying to drag the Epoxy across a surface and it won’t cover evenly. 4) Using a foam roller is great to help spread the Epoxy evenly, but it will absorb lots of resin. Which is good if you are doing a lip or edge of your countertops. You can get away with it well enough. Or I use a plastic paint scraper. That works pretty well too! 5) With this product I didn’t need to use a torch or heat gun very much because I didn’t have many bubbles. I personally like to use a heat gun opposed to a blowtorch because I feel like the heat gun doesn’t get as hot as the blowtorch but it pops the bubbles well enough and you don’t run the risk of scorching your Epoxy as much. 6) If you do decide to mix paint into your resin, make sure it’s Acrylic. Or you can use spray paint. That works well with resin. If you do decide to use any kind of metallic paint, don’t leave it sitting in the bucket for too long. For whatever reason, I left a bucket of resin with metallic spray paint mixed in sitting for a little too long and it got WAY too hot and bubbled up and started melting my bucket... so just a heads up about that. Don’t leave your resin sitting in a small container for too long. 7) Prep your surface well. My countertops had laminate on top so I sanded that well and applied a primer coat (just found a water based paint from Lowe’s.) let that dry completely and it worked great. I purchased two 2 gallon kits and it did a base coat, a second coat, and a final flood (top) coat, (3 coats total.) My countertops are approximately 38 square feet and I just barely had enough. If you’re not experienced with using Epoxy resin, I’d say you should probably get a little extra just to be safe. Whew!! Hope all that helps someone out there! Good luck!

For first time users, I would highly recommend mixing small amounts and trying little jobs. The product can produce amazing results BUT has many nuances. This is my 2nd kit (and was substantially better than the first from a different manufacturer). I used the product in a cool garage - 55-60f so realize my comments relate to THIS TEMPERATURE. This is a big deal as the viscosity changes dramatically based on temp. If you're using this in the summer in Phoenix in your garage with the door open, this will flow like water! Viscosity will dictate 1) how this flows and if not properly contained completely, how quickly it drips out 2) how it traps bubbles and how thick you can/should pour it 3) if it will level itself out or not. There is NO optimal temperature as you need to figure out how to use it and then decide what works best for your application. I needed a build up to about 1" in certain areas of my project. I took 4-5 applications to get it there based on temp and bubble trap. To that, adding epoxy in layers is super easy, takes no prep other than keeping to clean and then pouring again within 24-36hrs. In fact, I routinely needed to sand edges off based on my forming method (packaging tape which worked pretty well but did allow for some dripping at times) AND POURING FRESH EPOXY OVER MATTE SANDED AREAS RENEWED it to CLEAR AGAIN. This was fantastic when I first tried this and realized I didn't need to sand down with 400-600 grit before repouring. This made reworking an area so easy. Using wax paper or parchment paper under your project works great. It peels off easily after cured Using a heat gun can help a lot. It eliminated a lot of bubbles that came to the surface. It also quickly warms up the epoxy which increases flow which again, can be good or bad depending on your application. When it thins out, more bubbles can also come to the surface and burst. Heat guns can be used to shape the epoxy for up to 2 hours or more after initial pour. I used it to level out the product when it won't cover an area 100%. Once I set it outside after it'd been sitting for a few hours in my garage to cure in the sun. It actually started to move in direct sunshine at 70F after 6 hrs!!! This does not set quickly at 60f. Curing - it is noted in the instructions and is true that it takes a LONG time to fully cure (up to 3 days I believe). If you want to sand an area, it is gummy for the first 12-24 hours making sanding difficult if you want to keep working. Heating it up will cure it more quickly as it'll move the reaction forward faster, but it's not going to happen in minutes or even a few hours. Overall, I think this is a great product. I will use it again for sure. Just really think about how it works both chemically and it's physical traits to help you figure out how to manipulate it. Try small first and don't get in a hurry. It's taken me 2 weeks of working on my project every day to finally get it right mixing 6-10 oz at a time for several sq feet of uneven surface (root ball I'm encasing)

I chose to fancy up my garage work bench. Stained a sheet of plywood, lightly glued a bunch of pictures of my kids randomly scattered all over it, and then put 1 order of these jugs on it. I'm used to having about 30 seconds to stir epoxy glues so I was in a deep panic stirring as fast as I could and then dumping this on my work bench that I purposely put a lip around to infill with. I was amazed how fluid this epoxy stayed for so long. I was able to pass over with my heat gun (hair dryer would probably work too). Got all the micro bubbles out. Checked on it an hour later, noticed a bubble, hit it again lightly with heat gun and bubble vanished and fluid self leveled. Next evening came out to look and it was stunningly awesome!!! But I did have 2 small sticky spots. Totally my fault, not the product's fault. My panic of it locking up and not stirring it enough is the reason I had the slightly sticky spot. BUT, I still had more lip around my work top so I ordered another set of jugs, 2 days later another set of jugs showed up, so figure 72 hours since originally layer placement. This time I took my time. Dumped the EPOXY jug 100% first into my bucket. Then I poured the HARDNER jug 100%. Then calmly took my time and stirred clockwise, then zig zag, then counterclockwise, etc. etc. Took a moment, let hand relax then stirred some more. I probably only gave it a good stir for 5+ minutes. But could of done it for 20 if I wanted but I felt I did a good job. Poured this next round onto my work bench, had by painters stir stick to act like my squiggee and slid the fluid back and forth all around my work bench to get an even thickness and then let it self-level itself. Went around with the heat gun, got out all the bubbles. Staring closely at my kids faces in the pictures to make sure they are crystal clear. And then I walked away to have dinner. Get this!! I came back about an hour later just to double check for bubbles and I found this splinter of wood laying across a picture of my kid's face, at the bottom of the epoxy fluid, not the surface. UGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wanted it gone, so I grabbed two pointy screws and used them like chopsticks to carefully reach into the still fluid epoxy (put starting to stiffen), and pulled the splinter out. Leaving a funky distorted spot on the epoxy, crossed my fingers, hit it with heat gun and amazingly it laid flat and crystal clear. WOO HOO! I love this product! But it still had to dry......... Next evening, back from work. And the workbench is absolutely flawless. Rock solid, glassy surface, all the pictures are visibly crystal clear. This product is awesome!!!!!!!! Now I just have to think of other fun projects I can do similar things like this with. Point of my long winded story, you have plenty of time to stir, so take your time. And use a heat gun or similar to get your little air bubbles out. And also remember its a fluid, so it will flow, think about how the edges of your project are going to keep the epoxy in place.

I’ve used this epoxy resin kit for a project where I needed a clear, durable finish, and overall it did exactly what I wanted it to do. Mixing was straightforward, the resin flowed well, and it self-leveled nicely without needing a lot of extra work. Bubble control was manageable, and the final finish came out clean and glossy. One thing that stood out was the cure time. It set up in about 40 minutes, which felt a little quick at first, but it wasn’t a problem once I adjusted my working pace. As long as you’re prepared and have everything ready before mixing, it’s very workable and produces consistent results. So far, the cured surface has been holding up well with no clouding, soft spots, or tackiness. Clarity has stayed consistent, and the finish feels solid and durable. Overall, this is a dependable epoxy resin that performs as advertised. It’s not perfect for slow, extended working times, but for most projects it delivers great results. I’d use it again and feel comfortable recommending it.

So I have been wanting Epoxy the top of my bar for some time. I have been saving ticket stubs to events I have attended for over 35 years. So, the last thing I wanted to do was screw this up. I read the reviews for LOTS of different products. What I found most helpful was reading about other peoples experiences with the product. Especially people who had never done this before. Therefore, I am going to go ahead and add to the product knowledge of this epoxy. First, I will say what many other posts said - FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. If you take short cut, you are going to pay the price. Your epoxy won't set or you will have other issues. So let's start with the mix. I did what everyone else had recommended. I affixed my ticket stubs to my bar counter tops. Now I should also mention this. I have a high counter top and a low counter top. I did a test run on my low counter top. On the lower counter top, I had taken CD jewel case covers (i had hundreds) and affixed them and did the same process. This was my test run. It did not turn out perfect. However, the imperfections were 100% MY FAULT. I read some 2 and 3 star ratings and looking back on them now, I would venture to say a lot of the screw ups I read were user error. Not trying to be hard on the DIY user, but much of the complaints I read were user screw ups. My test runs had issues because I didn't anticipate a lot of things. Now back to the mix. First, don't go cheap. Use a two new containers EVERY TIME you do a mix. My counter top was big - 2' x 10'. When I did my first test, I did it with a quart plastic mixing container. That would have taken me all night. I quickly switched to a 5 quart bucket. Get the ones that have the ounces marked on the side. I mixed batches 64 oz at a time. I did just like it said. Mix for 5 minutes and then transfer to a second - clean container and mix for 3 minutes. I just used Alexa for this part. About the mixing - this stuff is hard to mix together. I did my first batch or two with a paint stick. Eight minutes of that is brutal. I read a review with a guy who had used a paddle paint mixer on a drill. So, I decided to give it a try. First time, I screwed up. I thought use a high speed - full trigger - and get it mixed good. That was stupid. Just creates one big air bubble - actually thousands that make the mix look like milk. i was able to use a heat gun to get the bubble out. However, it took forever!!!! Second time, I just pulled the trigger until the paddle started spinning - lowest setting possible. I just moved it around and reversed the paddle every couple of minutes. Worked great. I don't think it came out with any more bubbles and they came out easily. Pouring the mixture was something most people didn't really talk about. When you do your seal coat, you can move it around with a blade. Be gentle or you will create valleys. Now on the flood coat, no one ever said to move the product around. The indication is that it is self-leveling. I would say that is accurate to a point. If you just pour it and let it run, it is going to stay really thick - between 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch. I didn't want it that thick. So, just like the seal coat, I moved it around again with a blade. I just used a 6 inch putty knife. This stuff is STICKY. I bought a 40 pack of rags from Home Depot and a gallon of denatured alcohol. I used this stuff a lot to wipe things off and clean up my putty knife. Once I poured out all the product on the bar top, I just worked it around making sure I got it up tight in the corners. I does self-level and it was just a thinner coat than the 1/2 inch. I used a heat gun to get out bubbles once I poured the epoxy out. I liked the gun because mine has a fan, think hairdryer, and covered more area. The bubbles come right out. It was a very easy process. However, don't do it once and leave it. You will get sneaky ones that creep up out of no where. I went back and checked it every 30 minutes for the first two hours of dry time. Ok, last couple of items. First, temperature - I kept the temp in my basement between 70 & 75 the entire time. Do what they say and don't let it go below 70. This will screw with the curing process. The final thing I would say is this. Once you have mixed it, the consistency is like thick honey. My bar is 3/4 inch laminated oak plywood. I have taken a piece of 1"x3" and made a half inch dado cut and used this trim piece to cover the edge of the ply wood. It fit really snug. I thought there was no way this was going to seep in, behind, down, and then back out of that piece of trim. Well, it did in a couple of places. if I was doing this again, I would run a bead of caulk on the under side of the bar to prevent those drips from happening. I was able to wipe it all up and keep the underside wiped down, but I had to do this for like two hours until the product got thick enough it no longer seeped out. Ok, sorry this is so long. But, i found the long review really helpful as I planned my project. I used two of the two gallon kits to do my upper and lower bar. Keep your environment as dust free as possible. Little threads and dust particles will get on the top and there is nothing you can do. This includes shutting heat vents in ceiling that are close to bar (learned that on my lower top.) . Final comment - TAKE YOUR TIME. This is not a go fast process. You have to be willing to go slow and be patient. I included a couple of pictures of the finished product. Love the way it turned out.

Easy to work with. Great results. Save your money ignore over marketed moreexpensive options.

I feel bad having to say this but this is the only resin brand or purchase I've made that I absolutely loathe. For my experience, do not buy this. I've used a lot of different resin brands and types, both epoxy and UV, on many different projects from 3D molds for medium projects or smaller decorations to the typical thin layered molds for jewelry. All other epoxy resin has been fine. I may have more bubbles in it or this or that, And it may not set as hard or perfectly as I want here and there, but ultimately even from my very first attempt when I had no idea what I was doing I've always had the product set in the long run. This is the first and only time I've had resin that absolutely refused to ever set. Or I should say, after literal months being left untouched in the garage where it could have heat and then cold as the freaking seasons changed it proceeded to only set on the very very bottom part touching the silicone molds on the coaster set I tried to make, and in the 3D holder for those coasters it basically never set at all. I followed the directions to a t and I even used a scale and cups to properly measure everything to make sure I was doing everything correctly. I don't even use the scale on some of the other brands when I'm supposed to which is why this is so frustrating. Because even when I have flubbed up or been a little lazy on other brands it has never ever been an actual issue if you just give it enough time. This however despite having been poured in late August or early September 2024 has still retained the consistency of half melted marshmallows even in February 2025. It's actually so bad that I think I'm going to have to throw out these brand new molds I was using them in plus this big mold tray I use to catch overflow. At some point I discovered with other resin that was being stubborn I could do a mixture of Dawn dish soap and white vinegar and soak it for a while and then scrub it and it tends to clear things off. I left this stuff alone for about 6 months and it wouldn't set so then I tried to pull out what I could and even using really nice latex gloves I went through multiple pairs and still couldn't get the stickiness out. Because it would catch on to my gloves and it had enough pull that basically all I was doing was getting pissed off and succeeding at times with getting some of the stuff off of it and other times it just essentially stayed in place. There's also this brand of paint and art wipes by hippie crafter that are phenomenal and I can't live without at this point. They have been great for removing resin mess and getting it off my hands and everything. Even THEY couldn't handle this mess. When I tried using them to scrape up any of the sticky resin it essentially just ripped them apart and decided to glue down pieces of the blue wipes here and there. I then let it soak for over a week or maybe two in the dawn and vinegar solution and that helped only a little bit even with me switching it out at one point. At this point I had to set everything aside to dry in the hopes that maybe it would set this time and I could break it off like normal and recover my molds because I'm going to be really annoyed if I have to throw them out. I haven't even tried touching it since I set it aside maybe a week or two ago because frankly it pisses me off to think about it and it's such a mess I don't want to deal with it. The tray I mentioned is one of the first purchases I made when I first got into resin a couple years ago. It's technically a really well made thick silicone resin mold for creating a box or a tray as a deep mold but I use it as something to hold my resin projects midway because it's easier to carry around. That thing has had so much use with so many different products and never once have I been worried I would have to throw it out but I genuinely worry I might have to throw it out because of this product destroying it. Simply because I can't get the melted marshmallow crap off of it. I will say that when I first poured it it was very clear and it looked like the projects were going to be beautiful. That's another reason I'm annoyed with this because one of the coasters had layers of dried flowers in it and I took a lot of time arranging them in different levels. It was going to be one of the prettier things I'd ever made. Which is one reason why I tried leaving it for months first inside in temperature controlled areas and then eventually out in the garage because the smell was too much. And since it wasn't setting if you so much has bumped it you would mess up the surface and I didn't want to make it look dumb. So it spent really hot days and really cold days over half a year untouched in the garage, with more warm days than cold. That may not be ideal but it was the only choice I had because it refused to set. And even with that an ideal temperature it should have set over 6 months. The fact that it did set on the part that touched the silicone molds tells me that it was capable of setting so I don't know what the deal was with the rest of it. The only thing I could think was maybe I didn't mix it as well or long as I was supposed to but again I have made so many projects and I have been honestly a little too lazy on some of them which has included probably not mixing quite enough on some sets. Every other brand and epoxy AB and anything else I've used has handled that no problem. The only time I ever had any issue was very early on when I think I didn't mix it quite right and even then the project set, they just were kind of bendy and so since I was doing keys and other jewelry type items I can't really use them because they can get ripped apart. But they rip apart because they're not as strong as they could be or it's possible I accidentally bought soft epoxy cuz I didn't know that existed at the time. I've even been really lazy at times and not even really followed the perfect directions for baby amounts because I may be only had so much left of each by the ends of the bottles. And that's never been a problem. Also to be clear most of the time I'm very specific about it and I am using exact measurements whether it be by volume or weight or whatever it is that the directions say. And I followed the directions on this exactly. Yet I've never had such a horrible experience. I don't like leaving bad reviews but given the fact that I've never had this issue with anything else I've ever bought in the years that I've been doing this, I wouldn't feel right not warning someone else about it. Since other people have had better luck it's possible part of this is user error but that's also part of my argument for why I still wouldn't purchase this. Because there was more chance for user error on many other kinds and brands I've bought over the years and they handled it but this one didn't. So even though the only user error I think I might have done is potentially in the actual mixing time or speed of it, I still don't think it makes any sense that it would set on contact for some things and not for other parts no matter how long of a time passes. And if it at least wouldn't be the melt and marshmallow consistency and I could just pour it out that would be fine but it's also completely impossible to remove. It's a bummer because I was excited about having food grade on coasters and I was actually making these as presents for a friend I hadn't seen in well over a decade. I went to make it later than I normally would, only giving about 72 hours before the plane ride, but they should have been set enough for me to bring with. Instead I couldn't move them and proceeded to not move them for probably two to three or four weeks or maybe even more inside before I finally had to give up and move them into the garage in the hopes that maybe it would set there.

Let me start with the basics - I'm a chemical engineer for a manufacturer of concrete repair materials that makes some epoxies (though not this particular type). I'm no stranger to epoxies as coatings, glues, crack repair and even mortar and grout when mixed with sand. I was torn between giving this product 3 or 4 stars because even though I finished my project, the product is more finicky than others on the market. What I didn't like is the manufacturer's claim that it is self leveling. While it does have the ability to find level if poured thick enough, it is not a low viscosity product. I don't want to get technical, but there are epoxies that flow and level like a motor oil. This epoxy part A has the consistency of thick honey, the part B is about that of motor oil. When you mix them together it's like the thickest pancake syrup you've ever seen. The easiest way to get around that is to make sure you keep the product in a very warm room until you're ready to use it. At 80 degrees, the part A moves a lot better. Also, pour your A into the mixing container FIRST then pour the B into the A and mix. Why? Because if you pour the other way around you'll waste a lot of time waiting for the A to pour into the B and you'll be losing working time. Knowing that epoxies trap air, I mixed by hand and I got a workout, but minimal bubbles. Don't whip mix - patience, almost to the point of aggravation. If I didn't know epoxies, I would have said later for this and used a drill and paddle and gotten a bucket full of bubbles. When I poured, I used a notched trowel to evenly spread across the surface (you can use a squeegee meant for epoxies, I had the trowel already). However, I still got some minor swirling. Nothing major, but enough to be noticed on a nice piece of furniture. If you see swirling you'll be tempted to try to smooth them out. Usually you'll make the worse. Better to let cure and topcoat. I topped with another coat which I diluted with a special proprietary solvent to thin it out so it truly self leveled. DO NOT USE SOLVENT unless you know epoxies and you're working outdoors and it's legal in your state and you don't mind ruining your work, angering your spouse and neighbors and having the cats spray the walls to counteract the smell. In other words, just don't do it. It cured well enough, and it is one of the clearest, neutral transparent epoxies I have ever seen. That's a big positive. Like all other epoxies it will get darker with exposure to UV light whether that's sunlight or lightbulb exposure. Keep that in mind. I don't know how tough it is. Some people here say it doesn't hold up to abrasion as well as other epoxies and it scratches. There are 2 ways to counteract that. 1 is to wax the top surface just like you would lacquer covered wood. The other is to periodically topcoat with a thin coat of epoxy which will make the scratches disappear. Oil based polyurethane might also work, but I'm not sure. Bottom line, I got what I wanted out of this by getting creative and spending more time than I intended. It does look good, so I guess that's what matters.