






🎨 Sculpt Your Vision, Seal Your Legacy
Aves Apoxie Sculpt is a professional-grade, 2-part self-hardening epoxy modeling compound that offers zero shrinkage, waterproof durability, and a smooth putty-like consistency. With a generous 1-3 hour working time and easy mixing, it’s perfect for detailed sculpting, repairs, and outdoor projects—trusted by artists and makers who demand lasting quality and flawless finishes.













| ASIN | B005J03Q5W |
| Age Range (Description) | Adult |
| Age Range Description | Adult |
| Best Sellers Rank | #37,827 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing ( See Top 100 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing ) #52 in Sculpture Modeling Compounds |
| Brand | Aves |
| Brand Name | Aves |
| Color | Black |
| Customer Reviews | 4.7 out of 5 stars 909 Reviews |
| Educational Objective | Creative Skill |
| Included Components | Part A, Part B |
| Item Dimensions | 4.7 x 2.8 x 2.8 inches |
| Item Weight | 1 Pounds |
| Manufacturer | Aves |
| Material | Modeling Compound |
| Material Type | Modeling Compound |
| Model Name | Apoxie Sculpt |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Other Special Features of the Product | Permanent, Self-hardening, Waterproof |
| Recommended Uses For Product | Modeling |
| UPC | 762642013328 |
| Unit Count | 1 Count |
J**N
Great product. Watch out for shipping in a bubble bag. Needs to be shipped in a box.
Clay quality: I’ve used many epoxies and this one is the easiest to use. You can mix it together with your hands and use it like clay. It feels like putty in your hands. It’s not sticky like other epoxies so it doesn’t immediately hold something together. It works great for mending ceramics, wood and other things. You can sand it, paint it and sculpt it. I have used it on pieces I put outdoors and it has held up for years and keeps on going. The only thing I would watch for is shipping. I purchased two colors and they was sent in a plastic bubble bag. Both jars were cracked on the bottom. Good thing I noticed or they would have dried out.
E**N
Great for twisty puzzle mods. Head and shoulders better than generic epoxy from HW store
Apoxie Sculpt is really nice to work with. The two parts are easy to mix manually, they actually end up looking black as advertised. In contrast to some of the hardware store epoxy putties, Apoxie Sculpt is not as sticky or stiff, and the work time is MUCH longer, on the order of an hour (I worked with it in a hot garage, so under cooler conditions it might be two or three hours). I used Apoxie Sculpt to modify a Rubik style 3x3 puzzle. It adheres well to ABS and makes a tight bond to styrene plastic using CA glue. It fills small gaps well and comes off surfaces of work pieces with a wet paper towel. So even if you end up accidentally smudging it onto a piece you have lots of time to get it off. I haven't tried smoothing it with wet fingers but I think that you easily could. A pumice soap gets 99% of the stuff off of your hands, though you might need a nail brush. Finally, be aware that the black Apoxie Sculpt, when sanded, looks gray. At least that is the case with 80 grit. If you want true black then you may have to polish it, or put on a layer of black paint. Highly recommended.
V**.
Good stuff for repairing granite composite
Amazing stuff - used it to fix a broken granite composite sink that I was told couldn’t be fixed because there was a piece missing and this fixed it beautifully
C**.
Impressed by this product! Good with silicon molds. Good replacement for resin.
I used this to make ornate replicas of some antique pieces. I already made the silicon molds and struggled to make the replicas with liquid resin for a long time, always having issues with air bubbles creating flaws in the finished product. My first time using Apoxie Sculpt and the finished products looked so much more professionally cast without any air bubbles. I do have to worry about stuff like fold lines since I'm pressing them into a mold rather than pouring, but I didn't have too much of a problem with this and my castings almost look as good as the originals. I still have to figure out how to sand down the backs to make them smooth, but with the success of these prototypes I doubt I will be going back to liquid resin for this particular project. I let them cure for 24 hours like the instructions state and they popped right out of the silicon molds. They cured very hard just like the resin I'm used to. I used the black variety of Apoxie sculpt and it's a rich opaque black with just a tiny hint of some shimmery additive, but not so much that I really notice it, which is good as I prefer these pieces to be matte. I'm looking forward to playing around with this some more. The black did stain my hands a little bit for the day so I will wear rubber gloves next time. I wasn't sure if this stuff would pick up the same level of detail as the liquid resin, but I'd say they are comparable, without the torture of air bubbles. Another plus is there is not the horrible odor that comes with liquid resin.
C**A
The best 2-part clay available.
Apoxie Sculpt is the only epoxy clay I'll use anymore. The texture is great, the work time is generous, and the cured material is sandable, smooth, and strong. I prefer the natural color usually, as it has the best sculpting properties in my opinion, but the colored versions are only slightly less workable. All colors hold their shape well enough to get lovely hard edges, there is very little slumping, and while some of the colors are easier to smooth than others, none of them are particularly difficult. For working with this material, I prefer metal sculpting tools and fine bristle brushes. You can smooth it with the Aves recommended cleaner and softener, but honestly, I find myself just using water. I do recommend not buying larger kits unless you know for a fact you'll use it quickly, though - the shelf life is the only area where Apoxie Sculpt has room for improvement. I find that after just 4-6 months it loses its tackiness, and while it's still great for sculpting, it becomes much more difficult to stick it to other things.
M**M
Easy to use and great for costuming.
I bought this stuff as an alternative to autobody filler - I'm making a custom Star Wars Mandalorian helmet out of 5-galon bucket plastic and needed something to fill gaps and close up holes in the bike helmet I'm using. Many other armor-builders swear by Bondo, but I find this stuff far more versatile and easy to use. First off, it doesn't smell bad at all, though its faint aroma could be likened to corn chips (at least, to my nose). You don't need any special respirators or fume hoods to handle or work with the stuff; just throw on some gloves to mix the two parts, since it's very sticky while you mix it. If you get it on you, it actually comes off really well with water. Once it hardens, it's not going anywhere, but while still in putty-form you can wet and smooth it like a stoneware clay, reducing the need for sanding. It was stiff enough un-moistened to fill the vent holes of a bike helmet, though, and sands nicely when dry if needed. All in all, I love how this stuff handles, and the working time is long enough to be useful but short enough to be convenient. No fumes, solvents, or messing around with weird ratios - just 50/50 and knead the stuff together. The black I bought matches the plastic I'm using very nicely, and the one drawback I found was that it has a hard time sticking to perfectly smooth surfaces. Rough things up a little with some sandpaper, though, and it works great. As someone who used to swear by polymer clay, I'll probably be trying out some other colors at some point.
�**�
4.5 Stars -- sticky when mixing but holds a sculpt well
I love this stuff. I use it primarily for sculpting figures and props; but it's also very handy to use for household, garden tool, and auto interior repairs. You can adhere it to most surfaces as a durable filler or extension. And it's waterproof when cured (Woo hoo!). I find the working consistency much friendlier than the other two-part epoxy putties that I've used. In the past, I've typically sculpted with earthen, polymer, or paperclays. With those clays, I can keep the project covered and damp (for paper and earthen clays) and continue working on them intermittently for days. For those sculpting projects that I can finish within the 2-3 hour hardening time, though, Apoxie Sculpt is perfect for my needs -- a great end-product and no firing or other curing efforts necessary. Once mixed, it feels sort of like soft polymer clay while manipulating and sculpting and it accepts and holds a high degree of detailing. Unlike many other clays, it doesn't shrink or crack as it cures which makes it work so much better for those larger projects where multiple pieces have to fit together "just right." The Apoxie Sculpt isn't fully cured after the initial 2-3 hour sculpting/manipulating time. Even after 5-6 hours, you can usually still make a fingernail depression in the surface. But, once it is fully cured (about 24 hrs), it is very hard and durable -- and you can carve, sand, or drill it without it cracking or chipping. The cured pieces can be painted or stained (I've only tried staining a couple of times with so-so results). The painting, however, works well. I recommend that you prime your piece(s) first with a good spray primer before applying paint. The initial coat seems to stick better as a spray rather than brushing on; but, once well-primed, subsequent coats of paint can be brushed on. For those unfamiliar with the process, Apoxie Sculpt comes in two different containers and you mix equal parts from each for about 2 minutes (until color is uniform). From this point, you have a couple of hours to finish your sculpting before the piece begins hardening too much. I plan that time with no interruptions so that I can finish within the time frame. When the unavoidable interruption occurs, I've had some luck with sticking the piece in the fridge or freezer to slow the curing a bit (the clay warms slightly as it cures). I try not to mix more Apoxie Sculpt than I can easily sculpt with at one time. You can always mix more and add to your project. I use my fingers, sculpting tools, or various brushes along with either water or Ave's Safety Solvent to add seamless additions on to the main piece. Besides the time limitation, the only thing I don't care for is the mixing of the two parts. Until thoroughly combined, the mixture is a sticky mess. The makers recommend using latex gloves for this stage. I've tried it both ways -- bare hands and gloves. Don't really like to use the gloves, but it does save getting the mess on your hands. This black version of Apoxie Sculpt leaves a black residue on your hands that doesn't wash off easily with regular soap and water. Some sculptors use Ave's Safety Solvent to clean their hands and tools; but I find it too drying for my hands. Instead, I use Formula 409 All Purpose Cleaner . It's not as drying to my hands but helps to remove the residue more easily. While there is a very slight odor to the uncured Apoxie Sculpt, I don't find it unpleasant. There are no solvents and fumes. Not only is it waterproof AFTER it's cured, it's not necessary to keep it dry until it IS cured. In fact, you can mix it, sculpt it, and dump it in a bowl of water and it'll still finish curing underwater. Apoxie Sculpt comes in about a dozen colors and is generally more economical in the larger sizes. This small 1-lb size is good for home repairs and just trying it out to see if you like it; but if you're using it for much sculpting, you'll want to go with the larger sizes. Amazon often carries the 4-lb size (but check the price/shipping). It also comes in 20-lb and 100-lb sizes from the Apoxie Sculpt site. The company that produces Apoxie Sculpt has numerous other formulations available...all with slightly different characteristics. My overall preference for sculpting is their Fixit Sculpt . It's more expensive but offers a firmer sculpting material and longer uncured sculpting time.
K**E
Love It
I love this stuff and use it every so often for crafts. It's mildly toxic, so if that bothers you just wear nitrile or latex gloves. It can/does stain the hands temporarily but washing with soap & hot water after is good practice for those of you who don't/won't wear gloves when working with it. This stuff doesn't take to being trimmed or drilled but is excellent for being sculpted, pushed into molds, and being put into mixed-media art. It will usually last you at least a year, if not a few, before the ingredients separate a bit. You'll be able to tell when it's doing that. Either way, be confident: this stuff is DURABLE, affordable, and really worth your while.
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