🔑 Unlock Reliability with Every Turn!
The Beck Arnley Ignition Switch (Model 201-1794) is a high-quality replacement part designed to match original equipment specifications. With a lightweight design and premium corrosion-resistant materials, this switch ensures reliable performance and a perfect fit for your vehicle's wiring harness and ignition cylinder.
Manufacturer | Beck/Arnley |
Brand | Beck/Arnley |
Model | Ignition Switch |
Product Dimensions | 10.92 x 5.08 x 17.78 cm; 226.8 Grams |
Item model number | 201-1794 |
Exterior | Machined |
Manufacturer Part Number | 2011794 |
Lift Type | Mechanical,Electrical |
Item Weight | 227 g |
J**O
worked great!
Fit my vehicle as described
C**1
Fixed random stalling of 1998 Honda C-RV.
This fixed my random stalling and no starts on my 1998 Honda CRV. There is a known problem with the ignition switch on first generation Honda CR-Vs. I talked to a tech at Honda who tried to tell me my random stalling was not the ignition switch because I would be able to shake the keys in the ignition to get it to stall but that was not happening. No matter how much I tried to shake the key I could not force it to stall. He also said if it were the ignition switch it would always start back up right away which was not always the case. Sometimes it would and other times I'd have to wait minutes or let the engine try to turn over for several seconds. He didn't know what he was talking about because I replaced the switch and now my car does not stall while driving. It would normally stall about 15 minutes into my drive then stall 4-5 more times within the next several minutes of driving after restarts. Eventually it would stop stalling and continue to drive until the next day after the car sat. Again it would start stalling around 15 minutes into my drive. Sometimes the engine would cut in and out. It was just like someone quickly turned off the ignition then back on right away.This is an easy fix. You only need to drop the lower dash panel on the driver side. It's just two screws and some clips. The ignition switch screws into the back of the mechanical portion of the ignition switch that you put your key into with two Phillips head screws. You'll. Need to cut a few zip ties to remove the old wire harness and unplug the two connectors. You'll need a few new zip ties to hold the new wire harness in place.Now, if this does not fix your stalls here's what else it could be:1). Main relay (for fuel injectors and fuel pump behind the lower passenger side dash panel). Another easy fix. Remove the glove box held be two screws and the lower passenger side dash. You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the bracket holding the main relay in.2) Ignition control module (ignitor). This is inside the distributor next to the ignition coil. Not too hard of a job. You need to remove the air filter assembly and take the distributor cap, rotor, and rotor cover off to get to it. It's held on by a few screws with wires going to it. There is a heat sink on it you will need to move to the new ignitor. The hardest part is lining up the screw that holds the rotor on with the slot in the rotor cover to reach it with a screw driver. You'll need to "bump" the motor by quick turns off the key until the rotor lands in the right position to reach the screw.3) Ignition coil. This is not as likely unless your car doesn't start at all but you could still have a weak coil which could cause intermittent stalls. It's next to the ignition so it's basically the same job as removing the ignitor.4) Spark plugs, rotor, and rotor cap. If any of these or combination of are really bad you could stall and have a hard time starting the engine. This is less likely unless your engine runs poorly too.How do I know this because I changed all these things because the Honds tech told me it couldn't be the ignition switch. Don't listen to the Honda techs. They don't want to take the time to look up your VIN to see if your ignition switch was covered under the recall or they are just plain ignorant of the recall problem that happened around 18 years ago.I never got to the fuel pump but that's the last thing I would have replaced had the ignition switch not fixed my problem. There's always there remote chance of a bad electrical connection somewhere like a ground wire or bad fuse panel under the dash. If you are here reading reviews I'd start by replacing the ignition switch first. The electrical part with wire harness not the mechanical part with the key tumbler.So I took the old switch apart and what I found was all the contact points looked like they were covered in carbon. They looked more dirty than burnt. It looked and felt like soot. I was able to clean them with a q-tip and fine sandpaper. I probably could have reused the old switch but since I bought a new one on Amazon for only $28 I didn't bother of want to chance it. If you do want to try cleaning and reusing the original switch be careful taking it apart so you don't break any of the clips that hold it together. You will need to pry up on several clips simultaneously. Not easy. I've attached an image of what the dirty contacts looked like in the old ignition switch. Hope this helps someone. Took me over a week the hard way to figure out my problem.
J**N
Would recommend this item to everyone!
Item was as advertised , very happy with it.
R**Z
Good product for the money
Fast delivery and very good price
D**K
Perfect Replacement for the gen 1 crv
If you need a nee harness this one comes quick, it works and is the correct dimensions.
Trustpilot
2 days ago
1 month ago