BuildTak BT625X925-3PK 3D Printing Build Surface, Rectangle, 6.25" x 9.25"/159 mm x 235 mm, Black (Pack of 3)

If you want a fairly cheap and decent upgrade for a non-heated print bed, this is it. PLA and PETG filaments adhere to the surface much better than blue scotch tape in my experience using BuildTak, which leads to minimal failed prints due to adhesion issues. After your print is done, simply snap the print off the bed. For larger prints, I do definitely recommend printing models with a raft and using a scraper to remove from the print bed as larger surface areas tend to have a strong adhesion with BuildTak and can be quite difficult to remove by hand.The BuildTak surface is fairly robust, but not indestructible. However, if you are careful removing prints and get into the habit of cleaning the surface every few prints or so (a wipe with a little isopropyl alcohol cleans nicely), the BuildTak surface will last quite some time! Always good to have an extra on standby, just in case you do need a replacement.

Excellent 3D Printing surface - I have used this exclusively with PLA & a CTC Dual Extruder FFF printer.I print the first layer at 200 degrees and keep a constant bed temperature of 50 degrees throughout the print, by the time the heat travels through the bed, the printing surface itself is little more than warm to the touch (I estimate about 38-40 degrees)I had tried a large number of different build platform surfaces on my 3D printer before this, including masking tape, kapton tape and even painting a layer of PVA glue & water on top of the kapton tape and leaving it overnight to dry. BuildTak is by far the easiest and most reliable choice. Kapton & PVA when done perfectly sticks a little better than this stuff and prints with a lovely shiny surface but it's hit and miss and only lasts for 2 or 3 prints. BuildTak leaves a MATT finish on the underside of your print, sticks well and doesn't warp*With BuildTak, removal of the item from the print bed can be a bit tricky, I pry at the edge gently (sometimes firmly) with a swiss army knife and have made a few scratch marks in the material in doing so. Bear this in mind as the biggest restriction in the product's useable life is how badly you scratch it. Their magnetic/felxible easy removal product looks promising and, if you can stomach the initial cost looks like it will prolong the life of the surface material itself.Application of the material to the print bed is easy. start at one side and apply with a credit card or similar. I had no bubbles at all on my first attempt affixing it directly to the aluminium build platform. Keep the surface free from dust by leaving a peice of paper on top of it when not in use.I cannot stress enough the importance of precise bed leveling and calibration. Ensure that your build platform is perfectly flat with a metal ruler before application. If it's not, do yourself a favour and clip a strong, flat piece of glass onto the build plaform first and apply the buildtak to the glass. I got my nozzles less than 0.1mm away from the bed using some light weight copier paper as a feeler and this works perfectly for me. If you have a dual extruder system, invest in a nozzle leveling tool to ensure that both of your nozzles are at the exact same height to prevent one nozzle interfering with the other's prints.BuildTak isn't perfect - it's expensive and relatively easy to damage but in my opinion the reliability and simplicity make it worth the expense. I don't think I'll be using any other product so long as this is available. I'll be investing in the magnetic flexi system at some point too.Happy Printing!*I've only seen about half an inch of printing not stick, that was due to over-enthusiastic retraction which is helped by the addition of a single loop of skirt and adjusting retraction. Everything else has stuck down well. The only warping I have had was with a layer that only partially stuck to start with as a result of a blocked nozzle.

Wow what magic is this? I had tried everything glue sticks, hairspray, abs glue and nothing worked it was 50/50 if they would stay stuck to my printing bed. I've only done a couple of prints and I'm very impressed hopefully no more failed prints half way through printing due to coming loose, worked a little too well with my abs I may need to lower the bed slightly as it stuck firm 🤣 without anything else! This is definitely a gift from the God's. I'm Looking forward to printing now. Thank you for saving my sanity

I have 2 3D Printers a Dremel 3D20 and 3D40, and my partner has a Flashforge printer, and we needed new build mats as he is sick of taping his bed down and my Dremels Pads have seen better days. Saying that, I really struggled to click buy on these as they were soooo expensive, but from a recommendation of a friend I shelled out and bought a pack of 3.Fitting*******Fitting them was pretty easy, they had sticky on the back so no issues there. Fitted in seconds.Then as per advice from multiple sources I adjusted the nozzle height so it was a business card thickness away from the bed, else I was told prints stick too well to it and damage can occur to the mat during removal.So Usage***********So been using these for around a week (20 hrs a day), on 3 printers and have to say they are pretty fantastic to be honest. Not a single misprint in a week, I've had misprints quite regularly lately. Prints come off well enough, I even bought the Build Tak right angled scraper, which really helps.Dimensions are as per the advert, and I've included an image, if it helps great.Any questions, please ask via the comments below, and I will try and answerSarah

I kove it and I regret that I did not use a 3D building surface before. It saved me of a lot of problems especially with curled up edges. You need to fine-tune your printer's Nozzle just a hair above the surface and it is still a bit hard to remove the print even when cold, but I use a pair of long pliers and snap to off easily. Put a piece of cloth over the print first so that you don't hurt it with the pliers and watch your grip, just enough o pull it off. Don't do this with thin, fragile prints. better use a rounded spatula for those.

I can't get on with this stuff, it either bonds the print tightly - so tight in fact that the print gets damaged removing it - or not at all. Trying to find the 'sweet spot' (if there is one for all prints you may do) costs you many attempts juggling bed temperature, extrusion temperature, and height of first layer. I've got through 3 sheets already in the process and won't be pursuing it further. It's back to glass for me - never had much issue other than the fact the glass spalled on occasion requiring replacement. So yes, one star = 'I hate it', and I do!